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The beautiful C-47- a military version of the DC-3: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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The throttles of the C-47 (Military version of the DC-3): Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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Practice runway 27: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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The Trident: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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4202 parked: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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The sideview of the 4202: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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The Russian built IL-18 was Chairman Mao's plane- on July 21 1967 Mao flew his last flight on this beautiful aircraft from Wuhan to Shanghai Hongqiao: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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The Russian built IL-18 was Chairman Mao's plane- on July 21 1967 Mao flew his last flight on this beautiful aircraft from Wuhan to Shanghai Hongqiao: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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The galley of the IL-18 is still in place. Mao was provided food from these trays: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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The Russian built IL-18 was Chairman Mao's plane- the controls are all in Russian and Chinese: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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The Russian built IL-18 was Chairman Mao's plane- on July 21 1967 Mao flew his last flight on this beautiful aircraft from Wuhan to Shanghai Hongqiao: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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Russian controls on Chariman Mao's IL-18: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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The beautiful IL-62: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
There is no hiding in the fact that I love planes. I think it is obvious when you look at my website. Therefore, when I arrived in Beijing, someone in the Chinese government I know strongly advised me to go to visit the China Aviation Museum to get up close and personal with some military aircraft! I could not resist to go and see for myself the splendour of this place.

The China Aviation Museum was established in 1986. It is located in Xiaotangshang Town, changing district. Covering an area of 720,000 square meters. It opened to the public in 1989, and expanded in 2009. There is a collection of more than 300 aircraft, ground-to-air-missiles, anti-aircraft weapons, radars, with over 15,000 other artefacts. It is the only one of its kind in China where you can go close to aircraft. There is also the old plane of Mao Zedong. I must say that when I got there it was a very exciting feeling for me because of my love affair with aviation. I felt like a kid in a candy shop. If you love planes, as I do, then you would just adore this museum. It’s awesome. There is nothing like this in the rest of the country- not even close enough (perhaps even the rest of Asia!).  

I mean, for example, I could not believe my eyes that I was so close to a Russian built IL-62! I last flew on this plane back in 1989 on Aeroflot Russian Airlines (I would love to see how they’ve changed now in all these years), and in those days I still recall the loud engines, the steep climb and the unique smell of the kerosene oozing from the aircraft even when sitting inside it! In 1989 it was impossible to get right underneath the aircraft because of security reasons in Russia etc., but here I was in Beijing in 2012 standing right under the wings and fuselage of this Russian beauty (thanks to the China Aviation Museum). It was also fun to see that people were having a picnic sitting underneath the belly of an IL-62. Now, which museum or airport will allow you to do that? None.  

They also house Chairman Mao’s official diplomatic plane, the Russian built IL-18 aircraft. It’s complete with Mao’s in-flight bed and the galley. Then there is the lavish display of Chinese F-6 fighters, which were used in many wars, including the 1962 India-China war over their borders (which China won). With such great aviation military ability, countries like India seem dwarfed compared to the mighty power of China. The media hype is always to create mass hysteria.

The museum houses planes from all around the world including Pakistan, the USA (actually these are captured DC-3s, C-47s, and even an Apache Helicopter), Britain, and Zimbabwe.

How do I get there?

You can either take a taxi from downtown Beijing, which will take around an hour, and would cost about RMB 200 to go and come back (or more depending on how long the driver will stay there). Alternatively you can take the metro to

How much does it cost?

You can walk into the museum for free. However some of the major attractions inside have an admission charge. These include Chairman Mao’s IL-18 (RMB 10), F-6 aircraft attraction (RMB 10), and the aviation hanger (RMB 20). There is also a small military simulator that people can try to fly in, which may cost around RMB 30 for a 5-minute experience. 
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Mao's bed on IL-18: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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A Convair 240: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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Mi-26: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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Cockpit of Mao's IL-18: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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The 4204: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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Vickers 843 - built in July 1948. This aircraft was piloted by Lan Dingshou and Zhang Jinghai when it was hijacked on July 30 1982 but landed safely in Nanjing: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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A C-47: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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The Y-5. On 1976-1-15, the plane was used to scatter the ashes of the late Premier Zhou Enlai: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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Vickers 843 - built in July 1948. This aircraft was piloted by Lan Dingshou and Zhang Jinghai when it was hijacked on July 30 1982 but landed safely in Nanjing: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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The unmistakable IL-62: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
 
 
The JW Marriott Hotel Beijing is located right next to it’s more fashionable brother, The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing. Both properties are part of the same family of hotels and of the same owner; however, there are considerable open differences between the two. Located in the capital’s fashionable up-market Chaoyang District, the JW Marriott Hotel Beijing is part of the China Central Place, a impressive complex consisting of over 230,000 square meters of office and retail space. Getting to the international airport is not a problem either as it’s only a 40 minute taxi ride (pending Beijing’s notoriously horrible traffic jams) , or you may want to take the metro from Dawanglu station, which is just a stone throws away from the hotel’s lobby.

It’s maybe not as flamboyant and luxurious as it’s neighbour, though the JW Marriott does excel in a class of it’s own. Take the lavishly decorated lobby for example which complete with a tea tasting section where guests can experience some true Chinese customs while they are waiting to check-in, or even if they are just whiling away the time. One of the key physical aspects that connect the two properties together are their MICE facilities (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, and Exhibitions) with over 1,240 square meters of Grand Ballroom space which can be connected to halls of The Ritz-Carlton Beijing next door. 

The 588 well-appointed guestrooms and suites form part of a refined oasis that offers adequate customer service in a family-friendly atmosphere. The JW Marriott Hotel Beijing tends to cater more for families rather than captains of industry, so therefore, I believe, this is one of the reasons why it is not so expensive. Guests at the JW Mariott Beijing who stay any one of the seven executive floors can enjoy the various facilities of the Club Lounge, which is open until midnight everyday – provided you manage to get a seat as it can get busier than the hotel’s restaurants sometimes.

While the views from across the windows of these cosy rooms may not be as beautiful as you would assume- do you really want to stare that at that factory chimney? – it’s the décor inside that makes you feel welcomed. The rooms are themselves are something to marvel at. Just some of the highlights include but not limited to: exquisite marble bathrooms with separate tub and rain shower, 42-inch flat screen televisions, bedside BOSE stereo system, designer bathroom amenities by Aromatherapy Associates, designer mouthwash by ‘Whisper’, iPod connectors, flat screen television in bathroom, twice-daily maid service, and Nespresso coffee machine. The best part of the rooms are the beds. Thick, ergonomic mattresses neatly cast to your body, lined with a plush 7cm, natural dove feather mattress topper with pillows that you can comfortably hide yourself at night like a baby inside a womb.    

A few jewels to marvel at lurk around too. Occupying over 250 square meters, the spectacular health club, 24-hour gym, spa with 9 treatment rooms, and the breathtaking heated swimming pool provide a sense of tranquillity even on the nosiest of nights in the city. During our stay, there was a lavish (and understandably loud) wedding party outside the lobby area, while inside the spa and swimming pool people were treating themselves to treatments as if they are on a paradise beach. The contrasts were enough to prove how well the management organised and had everything laid out nicely.

The hotel’s three restaurants, Asia Bistro, Nobu Japanese restaurant, and CRU Steakhouse provide many opportunities to explore the various gastronomic pleasures on offer. The former offers a festival of open kitchens offering a variety of dishes from around the world including Indian, Japanese, Malaysian and local Chinese dishes. While the CRU offers one of the best oysters and steaks in town. The hotel’s restaurants are designed in such a way that once you complete your meal, the path leads directly to either the ultra chic Loong Bar, or you can sit and do people watching at the equally smart Lobby Lounge and count the number of Louis Vuitton bags you see going past.

CRU Steakhouse - a review

While some of Beijing’s steakhouses might put on airs and graces, CRU at the JW Marriott Beijing has that scruffy, laid-back charm that it wouldn't be in a 5-star hotel had the food not been as good as I had experienced.

Tentative and polite staff are always at hand to make sure that the few customers that are present at the otherwise quiet restaurant are provided the best possible service that they can.

The main events to savour at this 144-seat restaurant are beef, which hails from either Australia or Qingdao, and oysters, which hail from the fresh waters of France. The whole fusion of this Euro-American crackles on the elaborately large charcoal grill. Its best to go easy on the starters; a handful of freshly imported ‘gillardeau French no 2 oysters (marennes oleron)’ and the ‘CRU crab cake (blue swimmer crab with caper berries & remoulade sauce), was a mere distraction from the steak which was to follow suit. The oysters at the CRU steakhouse were really fresh, almost as if the chef had just brought them from the beach. The taste, smell, and the texture of the oyster meat was the key to success here. Slightly salty in taste but that’s a very good thing because it means it is rich in omega-3, EPA, and DHA- the natural ingredients inside the fish oil. If you eat food like this everyday, not only you’ll be healthier, but there would be no need to purchase fish oil supplements and what have you in the market these days.  

The high-end service was brilliant, meanwhile, most notably from the restaurant manager, Murphy Cui, who himself is also a sommelier managed the rare double of being infectiously passionate (small wonder: the wine list is superb) without being snobbish or interfering. For the oysters, Mr. Cui recommended the finest ‘Matua Valley, Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2011’, and for the steak the experienced sommelier recommended a fine glass of ‘beringer Califoirnia’. The fruity luscious taste of  the white wine goes well with the fresh oysters. It’s a very healthy approach to life as they say in the French coast and in the Mediterranean.

The steak ribeye was soft and juicy on the inside and slightly charged on the outside, and truly rich in flavour. The side parts that accompanied it were shallots, cherry tomatoes, butter bean and a side order of rocket salad. Steak fans may not be too pleased with the lack of presentation paid to the plate when the steak was presented – compared to some of the best steak I have had, the side dishes are equally important as the steak itself. Having 2 or 3 shallots and a few butter beans is not suffice for someone who wants pure quality, as well as quantity.

The dessert dish in the end was a winner. A garnish of three desserts- tiramisu, walnut & vanilla ice-cream, and a mango & strawberry sorbet to die for. If you love a good steak, and oysters – like I do- then go and try a nice meal at the CRU Steakhouse. It’s probably one of Beijing’s finest.          
 
 
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A view of Cuandixia: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
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A view of Cuandixia: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
In all my years that I have been visiting Beijing, I never had the time to go and visit the relatively unknown and beautiful Cuandixia Village, located around 60 kilometres on the outskirts of the city. That time finally came last weekend when I had a day to while away my time. I vowed to myself that I would get up early and go to see this gorgeous village. Not even the windy weather would have stopped me going there.  

With a rich history going back to the Ming and Qing dynasties, Cuandixia is a small village of old stone cottages well placed on the curve of the great ‘Western Road’ that led from Beijing to the great mountains of Shannxi Province (and onto Xi’an etc.).

Since 2009, the village has been turned into a tourist attraction. You pay RMB 35 to enter the village, and almost every house either is a little shop selling souvenirs, or will put visitors up overnight or serve meals. The village is very pleasant to visit, and though the people who live there go about their daily lives they are very welcoming and open to host tourists for overnight stays or meals. It’s not artificial as is the case with the vast amount of historic attractions in China. It’s a real village with lots of rich history and culture (and you may even get to hear many myths and stories from the locals if you can converse in Mandarin), but one which the local government decided to turn into a business so that everyone can enjoy its benefits. Thankfully, there is none of the background Chinese music that you normally hear in most Chinese tourist attractions; and there are no touts that you normally see either. And most importantly, Cuandixia is thankfully not a beehive for tourists (yet), and so there is none of the artificial ambiance that we sadly see in places like Yangshuo (which has sadly lost its sense of the real Chinese culture I am sorry to say- do you really want to see a Starbucks, KFC, MacDonald’s in a national heritage tourist site?!).

I spent around three hours wandering around the narrow passageways and looking at the cottages, and ended up having lunch by myself in one of the homes. The chicken and other meat are cooked fresh. So if you order a chicken then most probably the chicken has been killed and cooked in front of you. It may not a beautiful sight, but its fresh and healthy.

Many of the homes (including the one where I had lunch) are constructed as four tiny buildings around a central courtyard. It’s best advised that you take a good pair of sturdy shoes to walk up and down the hilly lanes. In fact, if you want to get a panoramic view of the whole village then its best to go up the hill on the opposite side. The journey takes around half an hour to the peak, and depending on the weather the view can be magical.

The whole area surrounding Cuandixia is known as the ‘Cuanbai Scenic Area’. It’s situated in Zhaitang Town, in the Mentougou District, covering an area of 46.6 square kilometers. Apart from Cuandixia Village, there is the Double Stone Village, the Boyu Village and the Huanglingxi Village. Cuandixia comes across as the most atrarctive to the eye.

As mentioned that the village lies on the great ‘Western Road’. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the "Western Road" from Beijing led through the mountain ranges and connected to far-off Shanxi. Along this road were small villages that catered for tired travellers, and this included Cuandixia as well. In those days the villages would act as ‘bed & breakfast’ pit stop stations. The Cuanbai Scenic Area is also a fascinating place to visit for anyone specializing in history, culture, architecture, or sociology. There is so much to absorb, more than just your average mud hut.

These days the highways have replaced the ancient dusty roads, yet the people are living in a similar fashion (albeit with some modern creature comforts such as good working infrastructure of water, sanitation, gas, and electricity). The people living in the village do have televisions, radios, hot water, and heating systems to protect against the harsh northern winters. However the facilities are, of course, not glamorous as one may find in the cities.

What used to take a day on a horseback ride from Beijing to Cuandixia, now takes around 3 hours by car. If there is any hint of what life must have been like in ancient Beijing, then this route to Cuandixia would be the perfect answer for you.

Arriving at the village still gives some sense of the same kind of feeling that might have provided the ancient travellers, as a mountain curve is drawn back suddenly by a neat curve of the road and the village appears on the right hand side, wedged securely against one side of the valley. There is no hustle & bustle of touts running towards you as you arrive, and it’s all very tranquil and calm. It’s just the perfect way to start a small holiday if you want to get away from the noise of the city.

The majority of the artwork that remains in the village dates back to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911); while the importance of the science of Fengshui was adapted from the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) era.
 
Getting there

Cuandixia can be reached by car on a weekday in approximately two hours, depending on the traffic. The best way to get to Cuandixia is to take a metro to Pingguoyuan Station (last stop at line 1), and then hire a cab. The cost should be RMB 300 for a round trip. The driver will take you there, wait for you there, and then bring you back. I spent around 3 hours at the village, and the trip cost almost the whole day. I happened to come here on a very cold, and wet day (it was raining cats and dogs). But I had to make the most of it. The people are nice here. If you are nice enough then they may even lend you an umbrella. From Pingguoyuan Station you can take bus number 929 if you wish. However, despite it costing much less than a taxi the bus will be a hassle for you. This is especially true if you have kids or if you are a photographer and want to stop to take photos on the way (which you can only do if you hire your own car). The bus makes frequent stops, will take a long time, and its just not a comfortable ride.   

Where to stay

It’s best to nook an overnight stay in one of the many courtyards that have rooms available for rent. Accommodations are basic but generally clean. The prices per person per night range from RMB 60 to RMB 80 depending on the family who is renting the room. 
 
 
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Restaurant Nana Casual Snack in Wudaokou: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh
I arrived at a miserably cold and wet Beijing from a warmer Shanghai a few days ago, and could not wait to go back to Wudaokou. Back in 2004, and 2005, I used to live close to Wudaokou in a place called Shangdi (Beijing's silicon valley). When I went back this time I could hardly recognise the place. It's become all westernised with KFC, Macdonalds, Starbucks, Pizza Hut- you name it, every international food chain brand under the sun is present here. There is hardly a whisker in sight of any real authentic Chinese culture left here (sad...very sad).

Wudaokou is close to Beijing University, and Tsinghua University (the Oxford and Cambridge equivalent of China), and so there are a large number of students, including foreign students. The area is also has a strong community of Korean and Japanese people, and along with their culture they bring excellent food to the area. While I was here, I really wanted to try an authentic Korean cuisine since I had not tried it for such a long time. Back in the days in 2004-2005 Wudaokou was not that well known internationally. There was a popular bar called Propaganda next to the Wudaokou station on line 13, which is still around and still provides the same excellent service it did back in the days.

I tried one of the best Korean restaurants in this part of the city. The Korean restaurant is called Nana Casual Snack, and offers some of the best Korean food around. The staff are very tentative, and exceedingly welcoming. I ordered a dish of Korean style dumplings, and a dish a kimchi rice with a fried rice. To wash it all down I ordered some Korean style orange juice, and some nice Korean Chamisul Soju (Korean Wine 19%!).

The restaurant seats around twenty people at the most, and because it is so good so there is sometimes a queue to get a table (but its well worth waiting for). The ambiance is nice, its clean, and above all else the food is just awesome…it will blow your mind away. I am very careful on where I eat and drink when I am travelling on a holiday, and I must say that if you love Korean cuisine, then Nana Casual Snack is good stuff. Oh, and the menu is in English as well as in Korean and Chinese. Normally what you find is that most Korean restaurants in China have a menu only in Korean and Chinese which drives away the western dinars. However, Nana Casual Snack does a good job. I was pleased, and I am proud to say that I left with a nice smile on my face, and a belly filled up with good delicious food.  

How to get to Nana Casual Snack?

Nana Casual Snack is located behind the Wudaokou metro station on line 13, and is surrounded by many other Korean restaurants and bars. If you get lost then give them a call at 010-8237-0500. Try it, you won’t regret it!
 
 
I have always wondered what the Lufthansa Centre in Beijing is all about. I have been to Beijing many times but never got the chance to go and have a look at this widely talked about building. ‘Lufthansa Centre? In Beijing?’ naturally such questions were constantly being popped up in my mind. So finally, earlier this year I had a chance to go and see the famous area. Apart from being popular for being the China Headquarters for Lufthansa German Airlines, this building, which is owned by the Lufthansa Group, is also well known for the 20-year old award-winning Kempinski Hotel Beijing. The location could not have been any better as its located only around 40 minutes away from the airport by taxi, and around a similar time by the metro. The airport express train is only a one-station hop away from the Lufthansa Centre.

The lavish lobby is one of the few in Beijing that provides natural light to enter the foyer through the huge glass roof. It’s marvellous décor is complete with mahogany, teak, as well as expensive designer leather sofas.    

Able to accommodate up to 1,200 people, the hotel possesses 526 well appointed guestrooms and suites, including 4 executive floors. The hotel was built to highlight the best of German hospitality and to make it home away from home for German and Swiss executives coming to Beijing for a business trip. Indeed, because of the hotel’s close proximity to the foreign embassies, and airline offices, so therefore it makes sense that most of the guests are diplomats and other similar professionals. Which is one of the key reasons why the hotel has been the crew base for Swiss International Airlines, and Lufthansa German Airlines. However, it can be safely said that the hotel’s rooms seem to have seen their hey days in yesteryear. The ambiance, the smell, and general aroma has faded in time, and it’s clear to see. Of course, there is that flair of elegance.

The rooms themselves decor appear to have been renovated but it all looks ancient compared to the sheer modernity of the newer 5-star hotels that are cropping up in Beijing and other cities in China. The staff are very tentative and caring, and it’s not their fault if things don’t go well as planned. I had to change my room as the one I was offered smelt of cigarettes- now that was surprising as the hotel is meant to be smoking free. The beds are comfortable, which is perhaps the most important thing about any hotel. On saying this, the hotel’s management are doing a splendid job in making sure that the quality of the Kempinski brand is kept going strong, and especially with the challenges that they are facing in the booming hospitality industry in China.

All of the rooms have modern amenities such as a master control box, which allows you to switch on or off the electricity, call for the concierge, and even control the television from the comfort of your bed. Then there is wireless internet, and Kempinski’s own branded amenities. The views are not all that great from the windows, and what’s makes it challenge is the myriad of high rise building erupting around the hotel that block the beautiful skyline which guests in the early days used to enjoy from their rooms. The mini-bar is well stocked, and contains German, and Swiss goodies such as Ricola, and Weis Schwarzwalder Kiefch Waffee.

The crème of the hotel are its superb food & beverage outlets. There are a total of seven distinctive restaurants and bars offering everything including traditional German cuisine at the much loved Paulaner Bräuhaus, Japanese cuisine at Honzen, Dragon Place for Chinese cuisine, and even Italian cuisine at the Trattoria la Gondola. The thing that differentiates the Kempinski Beijing from all the others is that this is one of the few hotels in China that offers something else apart from just a typical Italian, Chinese or Japanese cuisine because that’s what all the other luxurious hotels in the market offer.

Those with a sweet tooth would love the Kempi Deli, an award-winning German style delicatessen and coffee bar offering home favourites such as ‘schokokuchen mit kirschen (chocolate chip cake with cherries)’. It’s well worth a visit. 
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The beautiful lobby of the Kempinski Beijing: Photo Copyright Navjot Singh

Paulaner Bräuhaus at the Kempinski Beijing

Located in the beautiful gardens of the 20-year old Kempinski Hotel in Beijing, the Paulaner Bräuhaus, which is as old as the hotel itself, is configured to look like a German beer garden cum a restaurant. The whole complex is owned by the Lufthansa Group, and hence it’s name also is ‘The Lufthansa Centre’. The area is an expat haven for Germans living in Beijing. The German School of Beijing, and the German Embassy are very close too. So it’s no surprise that slap bang in the middle of it all is one of the most German restaurant’s. It’s best to book a table in advance as it does get crowded fairly quickly, and especially during the weekend and evenings.

The food is better than fine, though certainly not light, by any means. The chefs at the Paulaner do feed like there is no tomorrow. Though mainly an expat enclave, the Paulaner is actually more popular with the local folk. I would hate to generalise, however on the whole it is a fact that Chinese people adore beer, or anything to do with beer. Take China’s Snow Beer as a prime example of that. As of 2009, it is officially the best selling beer brand in the world, with annual sales of 61 million hectolitres, despite largely being sold only in China. Therefore, it is no surprise that Paulaner is doing so well with the city yuppies from across the road. Paulaner’s elegant, expensive interior, impeccable service, and regular live music add on to the attractions that this place offers.

Every dinar is presented with a breadbasket containing typical German style bread rolls, and also a plate with three types of bread dressings that include butter, ham paste, and cottage cheese.

The menu is purely German, with a slight hint of Austrian and Swiss cuisine. For starters, I went for the ‘linsensuppe mit frankfurter (lentil soup with frankfurter sausages cut into pieces, bacon)’. Considering that the restaurant was busy when I got there, I was surprised that the dish arrived within 4 minutes of me ordering it, and seemed to be just waiting to be served to anyone who wanted it. Equally well, I was not surprised that it was almost cold too. Now, either the chefs at the Paulaner have a remarkable talent for creating quick fire dishes, or it was made in advance and waiting in a pipeline to be served. Having a German restaurant in China would not make you feel as if you are in Germany, nevertheless, in terms of taste; I had to admit that the food was good.

The staff wore the traditional German costumes, and were very friendly and assisting, but sometimes it came across as dinars had to remind them and ask for minor but important things like salt and pepper.

Sticking to the German theme, I ordered a 1-litre glass of Halles beer, which sadly I did not end up finishing. I think I personally overestimated my ability to drink such large amounts of alcohol. However, more importantly of all, there was no way I could hold that massive beer glass with just one hand. Even a medium sized man like myself with an average sized hand felt like a baby holding a beer glass with two hands! But then again, I was in a German restaurant and it was all part of the good fun.

If the beer was not enough to fill me up on its own, then the next dish up was nothing short of a mammoth dish to eat. The ‘regenbogenforelle müllerin art (pan-fried rainbow trout with tomatoes, lemon juice and vegetables, sour cream dill sauce)’ did not look too pleasing, as it tasted. The presentation was dull and all you could see was a sleeping fish along with a few bits and bobs of vegetables. However, as you move away the skin gently then it tends to reveal the delicious pinkish meat of the fish, which is not only a feast for the eyes but also for the cake hole.

While Paulaner has branches in most of the bigger cities of China, where there is a considerably large amount of expats, the branch at the Kempinski Hotel in Beijing is the oldest and perhaps the most well-known because  of its connection to the hotel and the Lufthansa centre in Beijing. 

 
 
_ Though China is going green, it is still very hazy around the big cities such as Beijing. The capital city was smothered in thick smog for weeks until a day before the start of the Chinese New Year celebrations (23rd January). If you were to fly over big cities such as Guangzhou, Beijing and Shanghai, say five years ago, you’d never see the ground due to the smog and haze. On my stay last week during the Chinese New Year, the fireworks did not really help to make the situation any better. Beijing authorities started to release hourly account of PM2.5 levels just as year of dragon celebration began, and it just got worse as predicted. PM2.5** are tiny particulates released by car exhausts and factory chimneys that raise the risks of lung diseases, heart problems and dementia.

On the whole, since the Beijing 2008 Olympics, there has been some improvement. However judging from the recent PM figures, it will take a LONG time before we get to see a blue sky on a regular basis.

The good news is that at the start of 2010, around 8.6% of total energy consumption in China was from renewable sources, (it’ll be around 20% within 10-12 years*). The country is also on course to reduce its power consumption by 20% in the five years to the end of 2015. Their initiatives include building high-tech, comparatively cleaner, coal-fired power stations, as well as introducing other alternative technologies such as wind power (and even Nuclear Energy). The latter is on course to be on target for the year 2025 with at least a six-fold increase in increase in electricity from wind power. Until that happens, I think it’s best to wear a face mask as I had to do with during my 4 day stay in the capital (there is no shortage of these).

* Source: China Daily/Xinhuanet
** Source: The UK Guardian

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The author tries his best to cope with the Beijing smog!
 
 
In all my time in China I have seldom had the real opportunity to stay in the country during the festive Chinese New Year season (normally around the late January and early February area). However all that changed this year. I had initially planned not to stay in Beijing and was going to head straight to London from Chongqing (I was supposed to be on the Qatar Airways flight from Chongqing to London (Via Doha)). But destiny allowed me to change my plans at the last minute, and this special window opportunity allowed me to stay in Beijing for FOUR days until the late evening of the 22nd (early morning 23rd January actually). This gave me plenty of time to refresh myself about the sights and smells of China's capital city. I have been to Beijing in the winter before but only for a day or so- never had the luxury to stay for 4 days. On the day I had been due to go to Beijing, first I missed my flight from Shanghai (part of it was my fault for not checking out of The Ritz-Carlton Shanghai Pudong on time, and secondly I had to thank the ever great Shanghai morning rush hour traffic). I managed to take the Maglev train to the airport, and thankfully was put on the next available flight (there are 22 flights between Beijing and Shanghai everyday so no worries on that account!).

Now, if I thought that the traffic in Shanghai was bad enough, I had a very good surprise waiting for me in Beijing. It took me at least 2 and a half hours to get to the ultra luxurious Park Hyatt Beijing in Guomao area. This included an exciting taxi ride (almost as exciting as in Guangzhou ... but less than Bangkok), where thanks to my impatient taxi driver, I had to change taxies in the middle of my ride (the first taxi driver refused to drive into the heavy traffic).

Just like it's wretched road traffic conditions, Beijing weather can also present some ugly surprises of its own. The first two days it stayed as foggy as the shades of Aladdin’s lamp, and then the next two days it become thankfully more clearer, but more bitterly cold (but not as cold as places like Suzhou where the cold just gets into your bones- extreme).

I managed to make the most of the weather, going to places I had to before to refresh my memory (Shangdi, Wangfujing, Xidan, Guomao, and others), while also exploring areas that I had not been to before (Olympic Park- which is just dormant nowadays). The highlight of it was witnessing the non-stop fireworks display at midnight on the 22nd January from the waiting gates at Terminal 3 of Beijing Capital Airport. The whole airport, and its staff members came to a complete standstill for around 20 minutes (even the pilots and baggage handlers stopped) to witness the fireworks. The backdrop music of opera singing coming from the state owned CCTV1 echoed throughout the terminal.

Below are some of the photos of this beautiful city, enjoy:
 
 
The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing was my final Ritz-Carlton property to review (for the moment, until other Ritz-Carlton properties open in China), and I am glad I had waited to review it last (not that I wanted it to be the last one to review!). Why? Well, the interior architecture, and furnishings portray a nostalgic sense of what a true Ritz-Carlton property should be like. So, yes, good things do come to those who wait! Opened in December 2007, this luxury hotel is not quite as modern as The Ritz-Carlton Beijing, Financial Street. Nevertheless, with its 305 well-appointed guest rooms, including 38 suites and 61 Ritz-Carlton Level rooms, it does offer something for everyone from businesspersons right the way through to luxury travellers who prefer a touch of elegance on their travels. The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing is contemporary, yet designed with comfort and relaxation in mind.

The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing is situated in the capital city’s new business hub, known as China Central Place. Centrally situated in one of Beijing’s most fashionable areas and adjacent to Shin Kong Place shopping centre, The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing offers guests unparalleled convenience while providing a luxurious stay.

If you are looking for a bit of calm within the craziness of Beijing’s city life, then The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing could be the place to stay. No matter what the weather outside, rest assured that with the automated temperature controls available in all the rooms will keep you in comfort throughout the four seasons. All the rooms are attractively ornamented in warm, earthly tones that imparts a sense of cosiness and intimacy to guests. Just some of the luxuries of life include the signature Ritz-Carlton 600-thread linens and featherbeds, state-of-the-art in room facilities including iPod®, 42-inch flat screen LCD television and, internet access (wired and wireless). It’s true that from the moment that you step inside your room, you will feel the grandeur envelope you, and draw you into a world of sheer comfort, and perfect security. The hotel is a key preferred accommodation by many distinguished celebs, CEOs, and foreign Royalty. Some of the key reasons for this include the excellent security it provides, it’s close proximity to all the government and corporate offices in Beijing, and it’s only a 30-minute ride to the international airport.

Naturally, these aren’t the only attractions on offer. The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing also has a host of luxurious leisure facilities, such as The Ritz-Carlton Lounge, which is exclusively reserved for Executive Club guests who can indulge themselves in complete privacy. I’ll be the first one to say that nothing beats the feeling of sitting at The Club Lounge, and drinking a fine glass of Bombay Sapphire. It would be a blameless affair with the drink as the chefs at The Club Lounge serve the tempting ‘too good to say no’, all-day light buffets. Oh maybe a dip in the beautiful pool is on the cards for you? Located on the top floor is the indoor heated pool and Jacuzzi with an illuminated roof, where guests can soak or swim at their leisure. You may even find that a nice sauna session after working out at the gymnasium is equally refreshing.

Located at the same level is The Ritz-Carlton Spa, spread over a spacious area of 2,500 square meters. The Spa is divided into Ladies and Gentlemen resting areas. It features nice treatment rooms that including six single lavish treatment rooms with an Aqua Bed, two Couple’s Suites, and a Manicure & Pedicure Salon. If you have just arrived from faraway lands, and are jet-lagged (and tired), then I would highly recommended you commence with a 30-minute Tension relief back massage (costs 380RMB at the time of writing), and then follow it up with a 60-minute Aromatherapy Facial (costs 1000RMB at the time of writing). This combination of a gentle and calming massage on the body and face using a variety of luxury products is to make you feel fresh, restore your inner self, and to neutralize your skin, and restore its natural appearance. It was so good I fell into a deep sleep (I had to be physically woken up!).

Breakfast can be enjoyed in the comfort of your room, or at Aroma at lobby level, the all day dining restaurant that offers international gourmet experiences featuring mouth-watering Chinese, Indian, Japanese, and Southern Asian and Western dishes from an open kitchen setting. Now, if that’s not enough to fill your appetite, then for lunch or dinner there are two more dining options available on the 2nd floor, Yu (Authentic Cantonese), and Barolo (Classic authentic Italian). Fancy a Cigar? Then head off to the lavish Davidoff Lounge. The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing is one of the few Ritz-Carlton properties that specialises in providing authentically imported Cigars of high quality (The Ritz-Carlton, Guangzhou is another one). The Lounge is a luxurious haven to bask in the unmatchable pleasure of exclusive cigars, choice wines, and live entertainment.

In fact, apart from the above, the key things that really make The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing a firm favourite among Chinese guests is that it’s one of the only hotels in the city that offers excellent one stop shop for weddings (including a wedding chapel). The hotel features more than 1,100 square meters of meeting and conference space, including a Grand Ballroom, six function rooms, three meeting rooms, one boardroom, and the only wedding chapel within the hotel in Beijing. Therefore the wedding experience at the hotel is all-encompassing; the Chapel features a preparation room, separate resting rooms for the bride and groom, an outdoor Rose garden where wedding cocktails can be held. In 21st Century China, Chinese people are spending BIG MONEY on their weddings (much more than they would on their honeymoons!); and so there is no better way to say ‘I do!’ than to walk down the aisle in style in front of your friends and family (or the who’s who of Beijing), at The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing. Evidence of this struck me straight in the face- while I was residing at the hotel I witnessed two simultaneous weddings. So, yes, this is the place to be at if you want to get married in Beijing.

The hotel features more than 1,100 square meters of meeting and conference space, including a Grand Ballroom, six function rooms, three meeting rooms, one boardroom, and the only wedding chapel within the hotel in Beijing. The wedding experience at the hotel is all encompassing; the Chapel features a preparation room, separate resting rooms for the bride and groom, an outdoor Rose garden where wedding cocktails can be held. An opulent and personalized wedding can be staged in the Grand Ballroom. The hotel offers a one-stop-shop service by collaborating with some of Beijing’s premier wedding service providers including beauty stylists, wedding gown couturiers, photographers, floral designers, and jewellers.  

The impeccable service of The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing, is further executed by the multi-lingual concierge team, and personalised service that is unmatchable anywhere else. So in many ways, a stay at The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing is perfect for you whether you are sight-seeing, have a night in town (oh we love Beijing Duck!), or simply just get away from the stress of life and soak in the surroundings of the beauty of your room. Whatever tickles your fancy, the property is definitely designed to last through rapidly changing times and trends that will encompass Beijing for years to come. So, how can you resist falling into the lap of luxury?
 
 
Dining at the Yu Restaurant at second floor of The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing is an experience to cherish for again, and again. The Chinese people pride themselves in on being one of the earliest people to develop sophisticated notions of polite social culinary interaction. This includes the highly sophisticated rules of etiquette governing acceptable table manners and tastes. Yu Restaurant, which can hold up to 110 dinars, presents exactly that and nothing more than sheer sophistication. The restaurant offers a traditional tea-themed Cantonese cuisine. As I sat in one of the seven luxurious private chambers to dine like a Qing Dynasty emperor, I was mesmerising on the thoughts of what surprises I may be in for. A large water feature welcomes guests to the restaurant.

What’s more is that a tea master await all comers to intimate and sumptuous gastronomic affairs. Yu in Chinese stands for ‘Jade’, and there is plenty of it decorating the walls and the interior of this luxurious eatery. The interior of Yu is bathed in a bright red and mahogany wood colour, blended in neatly with golden beige accent pieces. These somewhat create a sooth feeling of elegance, sheer prefecture, and absolute comfort. Each of the seven private chambers is named after a type of jade stone, for example our room was called ‘Blue Jade’. Attention is paid to even minute details, from the tea corner to the silk wrapped menus. The menu includes at least a dozen tea samples encased within the menu.

As I was presented with the menu, I just looked at the Chef de Cuisine, Ku Chi Fai, and asked him to ‘Surprise me’ with his culinary magic. Then there was the house tea sommelier who was available to assist in guiding our choice of tea to go with each dish.

It’s best to commence with the sweet yet tangy flavoured ‘Double whelk matsutake soup’ (松茸炖响螺) which is a lovely medium-to-deep yellow in colour, and shows the red and black cherry aromas as the soup touches the back of your tongue and neck with each sip.

Yu offers an extensive menu of refined Cantonese dishes made with fresh ingredients and precise execution. The ‘Appetizer selection’ (前菜拼盘) contains the popular honey roasted suckling pig—a classic Guangdong dish—has skin cooked to a perfect, crisp orange and a smooth and juicy centre. Also, watch out for those baby cucumbers- they are immensely tiny and cute!

If you have a special place in your heart for seafood, like I do, then go for the main gem of a dish: ‘Braised cod fish ball with spices in casserole close-up’ (大千焗银鳕鱼). It looks like a piece of art work rather than a dish. Dare to tuck into the noodle nest which achieves high level of sophistication, as the whole dish is edible. You cannot argue with exceedingly good boneless pieces of succulent codfish lying side-by-side with the baby shallots. Yummy!

Continuing with the seafood theme (they love seafood in Canton!), the next dish that sandwiches the meal is ‘Grilled prawn with preserved vegetables dry eggplant’ (宫廷梅干虾球). Bright, elegant, and delicate looking (and tasting) prawns add enough sweetness and sourness to this wonderful gastronomic jewel. Autumn breeze marks the perfect season for slightly nutty yet buttery dishes such as the grilled prawns.

No Cantonese meal is complete with the ‘Taro puff and egg tart’ (芋蓉酥拼蛋挞), this ‘out of this world’ dish is a delight to have with any Cantonese dish. Its not really the presentation of the dish that matter’s but rather the taste. Cantonese people (especially those from Hong Kong), would not hesitate in pointing out the quality of a perfectly made egg tart. Soem will even argue to the point that their egg tart is the best in the city. The bright lemon colour of the yolk inside the tart, and the slight softness of the tart indicates to outstanding quality of the product. The easier it is to drop out of your hands, the worse the quality (i.e. the stronger the egg tart, the better it is). Challenge any Cantonese person and they will have no hesitation is proving you wrong. The nose of the dish displays a certain aroma of vanilla (it may be true), and lemon. Enjoy it while you can and make sure that you don’t leave any bits and bobs lurking around.

For the finale, ‘Chilled sago mango cream, and fresh fruits’ (杨枝甘露拼水果) is the treat of the day. But forget the fruits, its the chilled sago mango cream that can eat your heart away. Slightly dry, sweet to the front of the mouth, but all in all a complete journey of sheer perfection and a beautiful long length of butter, sago and mango kissing your throat with each spoonful. It’s great, and it’s all truly Cantonese at the Yu restaurant. It’s one of such prestige appellation to round off a perfect meal at one of the most sought after eateries in Beijing. 
 
 
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I still fondly recall my stay at the Peninsula Hotel Shanghai earlier this year in March. It gave me the impression that the hotel was a neat blend between the contemporary design and retained 1930s feel of Shanghai’s hey days’ (when it used to be known as the “Pearl of the east”). In contrast to the Peninsula Shanghai, the 525 room Peninsula Beijing has a completely different feel to it altogether. Apart from all the usual signature Peninsula amenities and in-room facilities offered in every Peninsula Hotel around the world, the Beijing Peninsula differs enormously in terms of architecture, ambiance, its classical interior décor and the amount of shopping one can do inside the hotel. It is the only other Peninsula hotel on mainland China (and part of the “Hong Kong and Shanghai Hotels’ Ltd), and is rather more well established as well than its younger and newer counterpart in Shanghai. This magnificent picturesque hotel has been through 4 renovations since its opening in 1989- and 2003 was the most recent one where over US$34 million were spent to upgrade its facilities.

Originally known as the “Peninsula Palace Hotel” until 2003, The Peninsula Beijing has become a renowned landmark since its opening in March 1989. Located in the heart of Beijing’s glamorous Wangfujing area, around 5 minutes walking distance from the bustling Wangfujing Street itself, and around 15 minutes walk from the Wangfujing Metro station, the hotel reflects a careful blend between the innovative touch and the luxury that it stands for. In actual fact, most guests will tell you that with the change of the times, the Peninsula Beijing is fast becoming a hotel that requires itself to constantly provide some sort of innovation its guests. It’s the small things that make the big difference to a guests stay in the 21st Century (and beyond). Such as the luxury of having to use a Fax Machine and the international direct dial (although the Beijing Peninsula does not feature of free International calls by Skype like the Shanghai Peninsula). The whole Peninsula experience starts with a personal pick up from the airport (VIP Pick up also available on request) with one of the Hotel’s signature Rolls-Royces’ or the BMW 7 series automobiles- and the same service is available on checking-out. The driver will take you straight to the plane (for those flying with First Class/Business Class), or to the terminal building.

The rooms are slightly smaller in size compared to the other Peninsula Hotels’, but it must be bore in mind that this glorious hotel has been operating since 1989- and in those days it was perhaps the most luxurious hotel operated by a foreign company in the whole of China. This was well before any of the Peninsula’s competitors’ entered the Mainland China market. To this day the tradition still looms in the air. The customer service, the maids dressed in period uniform, the Rolls Royce Service and the general feeling of the hotel that gives a message of “Yes, I am at the luxurious Peninsula” is still the same as it was in 1989. Toiletries, as with all other Peninsula Hotels in China, are provided by “Davi”- including their impossibly luxurious hand cream.

One of the key things that impressed me was the polished level of languages spoken by the native Chinese staff except English. These included French, Spanish and even business conversational Italian. Now that is a bit of a rarity in China- you’d be lucky enough if someone speaks good enough English let alone any other language.

The Peninsula Beijing Club looks and feels like a gentleman’s club. There is a strict dress code of semi-formal to formal wear with no jeans, shorts or trainers. The view may not be that fantastic, however the service and the environment is calm and soothing. Unlike the kind of “Clubs” that some of the other five star hotels’ offer, the club house at the Peninsula is a real club house. By this I mean that it is just the right place where one can relax and while away their evening in the company of good friends/colleagues and a good wine in hand. Normally such clubs are the nearest thing comparable to Gentleman’s Clubs such as the “Victory Services Club” (London) or the “American Club” (Hong Kong) that are frequented by Airline Captains’, Four star Generals’, Actors’ and other VIPs’. Its how a club should be- not with numerous amounts of food (it’s not a restaurant) or with the rest of the hustle and bustle that one gets in a noisy eatery. On my trip I even managed to bump into renowned Chinese actor, Mr. Guo De Geng.

The Club can be used by anyone, however is only complimentary for those staying at any one of the Club rooms on three dedicated floors of the hotel (and the 57 Suites’). The focus is mainly for those who are business minded- and the general conception is that everything should be smooth. This is true from everything ranging from private checking-in and checking-out to the breakfast service (guests can have a pre-assigned Breakfast at short notice if they are in a rush). The only thing is that some elements of the service may seem very traditional for those that are used to residing at more modern five star hotels’- such as the amount of dishes on offer are quite limited. One thing that people must remember is that the Peninsula is all about luxury and class rather than the amount of service. It’s the quality, and not about the quantity as they say.

One of the finest innovations of the Peninsula Beijing is the “Academy” that allows guests to enjoy any one of the 10 signature experiences’. There is something for everyone- including Children. Some of the amazing experiences include “Chinese Contemporary Art”, “Kite making with a Kite Master*” and “Chinese Dumpling Making**”. The latter two have to be my favorites. The “Kite making experience” allows people to visit a real Kite Maker in their Hutong courtyard house, and then after the kite is made you take it down to Tiananmen Square to enjoy this traditional activity. The “Chinese Dumpling Making” allows the guest to be given a personal tutorial on the history of the Chinese Dumpling by the Peninsula Chef, and then allows the guests to learn how to make a perfect Dumpling. Highly recommend that you make a reservation two days in advance to avoid disappointment.

Whether you want to relax, swim, exercise, shop (over 50 shops in the renowned exclusive Peninsula Arcade) or eat like there is tomorrow at the finest of Beijing’s restaurants’ then the Peninsula has it all. In terms of having a massage or a swim, the Peninsula for sure has a deeply personalized spa experience like no where else in the rest of this part of the capital. Opened in 2008, the 1370 Sq m Peninsula Spa by ESPA forms part of the third-floor health and fitness facility at the Peninsula Beijing with 12 state of the art treatment rooms that include all the relevant treatments to cleanse the skin, relax and soothe aching muscles and preparing the body to become more fresh and energetic. The experience of the Spa doesn’t just stop here as there are a wide variety of treatments for men and women available on request. Both men and women have separate thermal suites that include a steam bath, sauna, lifestyle massage shower and an ice fountain.

Don’t be disappointed if you feel that the Peninsula Beijing does not seem to be as contemporary as, say some of the other five star hotels’, or if the rooms are a bit smaller (except of course in the HUGE Suites)- because it really isn’t meant to be either. The clientele at the Peninsula are different, perhaps more affluent and perhaps not so much of the business type. The vast majority are celebrities, people on holiday or those who just prefer to enjoy life in Beijing at the high end.

One of the key features and memorable experiences I would definitely recommend is the impossibly scrumptious food served at the Huang Ting. Whatever you do, and whatever you eat, just make sure you don’t go away without trying the signature Beijing Daiquiri. An amazing combination of Banana, Vodka, lemon Juice, Triple sec, curacao and a quick dash of Mao-tai; the Beijing Daiquiri will not only blow your mind away, but will perfectly round up your stay to be a memorable one at the Beijing Peninsula.

* 2 Hours cost RMB 1250 per person (Prefer Minimum 2 persons)

** 90 Minutes costs RMB 880 per Person
 



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