With Verona being such a tiny city which you can easily navigate on foot in a day, finding a recommended eatery doesn't take too long. I was strongly advised by the Verona Tourism Board to go and try the famed Al Bersagliere: a Michelin Guide restaurant owned by the chef and restauranteur Pietro Leopoldo Ramponi, who counts as the Archbishop of Canterbury Rowan Williams among many other celebs as his close friends.
The original restaurant was a tiny but very buzzy gourmet restaurant located in the northern part of the city. The Al Bersagliere is located in a stereotypical quiet Italian town lane in the heart of the old Filippini neighbourhood, offers a precious occasion to experience the old, authentic tastes of Veronese traditional cuisine. The setting and ambiance is lovely - you are surrounded with memorabilia collected over the decades by Mr. Ramponi, including many of his own musical instruments, as well as photographs with many famed musicians and superstars who he is friends with. Then there is the large personal collection of wines, some rare. The wine carte features over 200 labels, pre-eminently Italian. Rich choice of Veronese wines: 60 Amarone labels. Well-pondered selection of spirits: 60 grappa labels, 280 whiskys, 18 rhums; Oils carte. You won't find anything like this anywhere in the city, let alone with region. The restaurant has three rooms (piano room, singers room, sport room and a garden, open in the summer) plus a twelfth century cellar which is worth a visit.
There is a reason why Mr. Ramponi has won the Michelin Guide, apart from the somewhat unique settings, he serves up inventive and sometimes playful tweaks of the Verona tradition. He's a master of culinary camouflage - one of his signature dishes is Horse steak garlic parsley oil. He is also a well-qualified sommelier who is able guide to some of Italy's lesser-known quality producers. My wife and I went for the highly recommended mixed polenta and the pastissada with polenta as we didn't want to go for the exotic meat dishes. All of this was washed down with a highly recommended glass of Valpolicella Classico red. It all tastes very good and is worth every penny. The best part of having dinner at this eatery is that you can enjoy a stroll along the narrow cobbled Verona lanes and slowly make your way back to the hotel.
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