There is no hiding in the fact that I love planes. I think it is obvious when you look at my website. Therefore, when I arrived in Beijing, someone in the Chinese government I know strongly advised me to go to visit the China Aviation Museum to get up close and personal with some military aircraft! I could not resist to go and see for myself the splendour of this place. The China Aviation Museum was established in 1986. It is located in Xiaotangshang Town, changing district. Covering an area of 720,000 square meters. It opened to the public in 1989, and expanded in 2009. There is a collection of more than 300 aircraft, ground-to-air-missiles, anti-aircraft weapons, radars, with over 15,000 other artefacts. It is the only one of its kind in China where you can go close to aircraft. There is also the old plane of Mao Zedong. I must say that when I got there it was a very exciting feeling for me because of my love affair with aviation. I felt like a kid in a candy shop. If you love planes, as I do, then you would just adore this museum. It’s awesome. There is nothing like this in the rest of the country- not even close enough (perhaps even the rest of Asia!). I mean, for example, I could not believe my eyes that I was so close to a Russian built IL-62! I last flew on this plane back in 1989 on Aeroflot Russian Airlines (I would love to see how they’ve changed now in all these years), and in those days I still recall the loud engines, the steep climb and the unique smell of the kerosene oozing from the aircraft even when sitting inside it! In 1989 it was impossible to get right underneath the aircraft because of security reasons in Russia etc., but here I was in Beijing in 2012 standing right under the wings and fuselage of this Russian beauty (thanks to the China Aviation Museum). It was also fun to see that people were having a picnic sitting underneath the belly of an IL-62. Now, which museum or airport will allow you to do that? None. They also house Chairman Mao’s official diplomatic plane, the Russian built IL-18 aircraft. It’s complete with Mao’s in-flight bed and the galley. Then there is the lavish display of Chinese F-6 fighters, which were used in many wars, including the 1962 India-China war over their borders (which China won). With such great aviation military ability, countries like India seem dwarfed compared to the mighty power of China. The media hype is always to create mass hysteria. The museum houses planes from all around the world including Pakistan, the USA (actually these are captured DC-3s, C-47s, and even an Apache Helicopter), Britain, and Zimbabwe. How do I get there? You can either take a taxi from downtown Beijing, which will take around an hour, and would cost about RMB 200 to go and come back (or more depending on how long the driver will stay there). Alternatively you can take the metro to How much does it cost? You can walk into the museum for free. However some of the major attractions inside have an admission charge. These include Chairman Mao’s IL-18 (RMB 10), F-6 aircraft attraction (RMB 10), and the aviation hanger (RMB 20). There is also a small military simulator that people can try to fly in, which may cost around RMB 30 for a 5-minute experience. The JW Marriott Hotel Beijing is located right next to it’s more fashionable brother, The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing. Both properties are part of the same family of hotels and of the same owner; however, there are considerable open differences between the two. Located in the capital’s fashionable up-market Chaoyang District, the JW Marriott Hotel Beijing is part of the China Central Place, a impressive complex consisting of over 230,000 square meters of office and retail space. Getting to the international airport is not a problem either as it’s only a 40 minute taxi ride (pending Beijing’s notoriously horrible traffic jams) , or you may want to take the metro from Dawanglu station, which is just a stone throws away from the hotel’s lobby. It’s maybe not as flamboyant and luxurious as it’s neighbour, though the JW Marriott does excel in a class of it’s own. Take the lavishly decorated lobby for example which complete with a tea tasting section where guests can experience some true Chinese customs while they are waiting to check-in, or even if they are just whiling away the time. One of the key physical aspects that connect the two properties together are their MICE facilities (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, and Exhibitions) with over 1,240 square meters of Grand Ballroom space which can be connected to halls of The Ritz-Carlton Beijing next door. The 588 well-appointed guestrooms and suites form part of a refined oasis that offers adequate customer service in a family-friendly atmosphere. The JW Marriott Hotel Beijing tends to cater more for families rather than captains of industry, so therefore, I believe, this is one of the reasons why it is not so expensive. Guests at the JW Mariott Beijing who stay any one of the seven executive floors can enjoy the various facilities of the Club Lounge, which is open until midnight everyday – provided you manage to get a seat as it can get busier than the hotel’s restaurants sometimes. While the views from across the windows of these cosy rooms may not be as beautiful as you would assume- do you really want to stare that at that factory chimney? – it’s the décor inside that makes you feel welcomed. The rooms are themselves are something to marvel at. Just some of the highlights include but not limited to: exquisite marble bathrooms with separate tub and rain shower, 42-inch flat screen televisions, bedside BOSE stereo system, designer bathroom amenities by Aromatherapy Associates, designer mouthwash by ‘Whisper’, iPod connectors, flat screen television in bathroom, twice-daily maid service, and Nespresso coffee machine. The best part of the rooms are the beds. Thick, ergonomic mattresses neatly cast to your body, lined with a plush 7cm, natural dove feather mattress topper with pillows that you can comfortably hide yourself at night like a baby inside a womb. A few jewels to marvel at lurk around too. Occupying over 250 square meters, the spectacular health club, 24-hour gym, spa with 9 treatment rooms, and the breathtaking heated swimming pool provide a sense of tranquillity even on the nosiest of nights in the city. During our stay, there was a lavish (and understandably loud) wedding party outside the lobby area, while inside the spa and swimming pool people were treating themselves to treatments as if they are on a paradise beach. The contrasts were enough to prove how well the management organised and had everything laid out nicely. The hotel’s three restaurants, Asia Bistro, Nobu Japanese restaurant, and CRU Steakhouse provide many opportunities to explore the various gastronomic pleasures on offer. The former offers a festival of open kitchens offering a variety of dishes from around the world including Indian, Japanese, Malaysian and local Chinese dishes. While the CRU offers one of the best oysters and steaks in town. The hotel’s restaurants are designed in such a way that once you complete your meal, the path leads directly to either the ultra chic Loong Bar, or you can sit and do people watching at the equally smart Lobby Lounge and count the number of Louis Vuitton bags you see going past. CRU Steakhouse - a review While some of Beijing’s steakhouses might put on airs and graces, CRU at the JW Marriott Beijing has that scruffy, laid-back charm that it wouldn't be in a 5-star hotel had the food not been as good as I had experienced.
Tentative and polite staff are always at hand to make sure that the few customers that are present at the otherwise quiet restaurant are provided the best possible service that they can. The main events to savour at this 144-seat restaurant are beef, which hails from either Australia or Qingdao, and oysters, which hail from the fresh waters of France. The whole fusion of this Euro-American crackles on the elaborately large charcoal grill. Its best to go easy on the starters; a handful of freshly imported ‘gillardeau French no 2 oysters (marennes oleron)’ and the ‘CRU crab cake (blue swimmer crab with caper berries & remoulade sauce), was a mere distraction from the steak which was to follow suit. The oysters at the CRU steakhouse were really fresh, almost as if the chef had just brought them from the beach. The taste, smell, and the texture of the oyster meat was the key to success here. Slightly salty in taste but that’s a very good thing because it means it is rich in omega-3, EPA, and DHA- the natural ingredients inside the fish oil. If you eat food like this everyday, not only you’ll be healthier, but there would be no need to purchase fish oil supplements and what have you in the market these days. The high-end service was brilliant, meanwhile, most notably from the restaurant manager, Murphy Cui, who himself is also a sommelier managed the rare double of being infectiously passionate (small wonder: the wine list is superb) without being snobbish or interfering. For the oysters, Mr. Cui recommended the finest ‘Matua Valley, Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2011’, and for the steak the experienced sommelier recommended a fine glass of ‘beringer Califoirnia’. The fruity luscious taste of the white wine goes well with the fresh oysters. It’s a very healthy approach to life as they say in the French coast and in the Mediterranean. The steak ribeye was soft and juicy on the inside and slightly charged on the outside, and truly rich in flavour. The side parts that accompanied it were shallots, cherry tomatoes, butter bean and a side order of rocket salad. Steak fans may not be too pleased with the lack of presentation paid to the plate when the steak was presented – compared to some of the best steak I have had, the side dishes are equally important as the steak itself. Having 2 or 3 shallots and a few butter beans is not suffice for someone who wants pure quality, as well as quantity. The dessert dish in the end was a winner. A garnish of three desserts- tiramisu, walnut & vanilla ice-cream, and a mango & strawberry sorbet to die for. If you love a good steak, and oysters – like I do- then go and try a nice meal at the CRU Steakhouse. It’s probably one of Beijing’s finest. In all my years that I have been visiting Beijing, I never had the time to go and visit the relatively unknown and beautiful Cuandixia Village, located around 60 kilometres on the outskirts of the city. That time finally came last weekend when I had a day to while away my time. I vowed to myself that I would get up early and go to see this gorgeous village. Not even the windy weather would have stopped me going there.
With a rich history going back to the Ming and Qing dynasties, Cuandixia is a small village of old stone cottages well placed on the curve of the great ‘Western Road’ that led from Beijing to the great mountains of Shannxi Province (and onto Xi’an etc.). Since 2009, the village has been turned into a tourist attraction. You pay RMB 35 to enter the village, and almost every house either is a little shop selling souvenirs, or will put visitors up overnight or serve meals. The village is very pleasant to visit, and though the people who live there go about their daily lives they are very welcoming and open to host tourists for overnight stays or meals. It’s not artificial as is the case with the vast amount of historic attractions in China. It’s a real village with lots of rich history and culture (and you may even get to hear many myths and stories from the locals if you can converse in Mandarin), but one which the local government decided to turn into a business so that everyone can enjoy its benefits. Thankfully, there is none of the background Chinese music that you normally hear in most Chinese tourist attractions; and there are no touts that you normally see either. And most importantly, Cuandixia is thankfully not a beehive for tourists (yet), and so there is none of the artificial ambiance that we sadly see in places like Yangshuo (which has sadly lost its sense of the real Chinese culture I am sorry to say- do you really want to see a Starbucks, KFC, MacDonald’s in a national heritage tourist site?!). I spent around three hours wandering around the narrow passageways and looking at the cottages, and ended up having lunch by myself in one of the homes. The chicken and other meat are cooked fresh. So if you order a chicken then most probably the chicken has been killed and cooked in front of you. It may not a beautiful sight, but its fresh and healthy. Many of the homes (including the one where I had lunch) are constructed as four tiny buildings around a central courtyard. It’s best advised that you take a good pair of sturdy shoes to walk up and down the hilly lanes. In fact, if you want to get a panoramic view of the whole village then its best to go up the hill on the opposite side. The journey takes around half an hour to the peak, and depending on the weather the view can be magical. The whole area surrounding Cuandixia is known as the ‘Cuanbai Scenic Area’. It’s situated in Zhaitang Town, in the Mentougou District, covering an area of 46.6 square kilometers. Apart from Cuandixia Village, there is the Double Stone Village, the Boyu Village and the Huanglingxi Village. Cuandixia comes across as the most atrarctive to the eye. As mentioned that the village lies on the great ‘Western Road’. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the "Western Road" from Beijing led through the mountain ranges and connected to far-off Shanxi. Along this road were small villages that catered for tired travellers, and this included Cuandixia as well. In those days the villages would act as ‘bed & breakfast’ pit stop stations. The Cuanbai Scenic Area is also a fascinating place to visit for anyone specializing in history, culture, architecture, or sociology. There is so much to absorb, more than just your average mud hut. These days the highways have replaced the ancient dusty roads, yet the people are living in a similar fashion (albeit with some modern creature comforts such as good working infrastructure of water, sanitation, gas, and electricity). The people living in the village do have televisions, radios, hot water, and heating systems to protect against the harsh northern winters. However the facilities are, of course, not glamorous as one may find in the cities. What used to take a day on a horseback ride from Beijing to Cuandixia, now takes around 3 hours by car. If there is any hint of what life must have been like in ancient Beijing, then this route to Cuandixia would be the perfect answer for you. Arriving at the village still gives some sense of the same kind of feeling that might have provided the ancient travellers, as a mountain curve is drawn back suddenly by a neat curve of the road and the village appears on the right hand side, wedged securely against one side of the valley. There is no hustle & bustle of touts running towards you as you arrive, and it’s all very tranquil and calm. It’s just the perfect way to start a small holiday if you want to get away from the noise of the city. The majority of the artwork that remains in the village dates back to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911); while the importance of the science of Fengshui was adapted from the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) era. Getting there Cuandixia can be reached by car on a weekday in approximately two hours, depending on the traffic. The best way to get to Cuandixia is to take a metro to Pingguoyuan Station (last stop at line 1), and then hire a cab. The cost should be RMB 300 for a round trip. The driver will take you there, wait for you there, and then bring you back. I spent around 3 hours at the village, and the trip cost almost the whole day. I happened to come here on a very cold, and wet day (it was raining cats and dogs). But I had to make the most of it. The people are nice here. If you are nice enough then they may even lend you an umbrella. From Pingguoyuan Station you can take bus number 929 if you wish. However, despite it costing much less than a taxi the bus will be a hassle for you. This is especially true if you have kids or if you are a photographer and want to stop to take photos on the way (which you can only do if you hire your own car). The bus makes frequent stops, will take a long time, and its just not a comfortable ride. Where to stay It’s best to book an overnight stay in one of the many courtyards that have rooms available for rent. Accommodations are basic but generally clean. The prices per person per night range from RMB 60 to RMB 80 depending on the family who is renting the room. I arrived at a miserably cold and wet Beijing from a warmer Shanghai a few days ago, and could not wait to go back to Wudaokou. Back in 2004, and 2005, I used to live close to Wudaokou in a place called Shangdi (Beijing's silicon valley). When I went back this time I could hardly recognise the place. It's become all westernised with KFC, Macdonalds, Starbucks, Pizza Hut- you name it, every international food chain brand under the sun is present here. There is hardly a whisker in sight of any real authentic Chinese culture left here (sad...very sad).
Wudaokou is close to Beijing University, and Tsinghua University (the Oxford and Cambridge equivalent of China), and so there are a large number of students, including foreign students. The area is also has a strong community of Korean and Japanese people, and along with their culture they bring excellent food to the area. While I was here, I really wanted to try an authentic Korean cuisine since I had not tried it for such a long time. Back in the days in 2004-2005 Wudaokou was not that well known internationally. There was a popular bar called Propaganda next to the Wudaokou station on line 13, which is still around and still provides the same excellent service it did back in the days. I tried one of the best Korean restaurants in this part of the city. The Korean restaurant is called Nana Casual Snack, and offers some of the best Korean food around. The staff are very tentative, and exceedingly welcoming. I ordered a dish of Korean style dumplings, and a dish a kimchi rice with a fried rice. To wash it all down I ordered some Korean style orange juice, and some nice Korean Chamisul Soju (Korean Wine 19%!). The restaurant seats around twenty people at the most, and because it is so good so there is sometimes a queue to get a table (but its well worth waiting for). The ambiance is nice, its clean, and above all else the food is just awesome…it will blow your mind away. I am very careful on where I eat and drink when I am travelling on a holiday, and I must say that if you love Korean cuisine, then Nana Casual Snack is good stuff. Oh, and the menu is in English as well as in Korean and Chinese. Normally what you find is that most Korean restaurants in China have a menu only in Korean and Chinese which drives away the western dinars. However, Nana Casual Snack does a good job. I was pleased, and I am proud to say that I left with a nice smile on my face, and a belly filled up with good delicious food. How to get to Nana Casual Snack? Nana Casual Snack is located behind the Wudaokou metro station on line 13, and is surrounded by many other Korean restaurants and bars. If you get lost then give them a call at 010-8237-0500. Try it, you won’t regret it! Ever since the 1930s, Shanghai has always been the city that brought along the blended emotions of nostalgia, fashion with a posh flair, and above all else, romance. With over 19-million people on the move 24-hours a day, seven days a week, there is a certain rat race going on by everyone planning on having a stake in the booming economy of China’s most westernised and fastest growing city. This is perhaps the most happening place in the world. Everybody wants to be here for their own economic gain, and nothing else. If you have money, then Shanghai is the place to show-off, and there is certainly an air on snobbery in the place. Yes, it has come to this. Indeed this is the place where business deals were signed, and to some extent the same thing happens nowadays. It's common to see board room meetings being held at nearby boutique hotels, and then they all go and have a good time at the likes of the KABB restaurant. The latter term may be applied even more so in the well preserved Xintiandi area of the city. The original form of Xintiandi’s antique walls, tiles, and, exteriors have been preserved by the Shui On Company. The whole area is enhanced, which is home to art galleries, trendy boutiques, international restaurants, bars, and lifestyle luxury shopping. I cannot resist falling in love with Xintiandi every time I come here. The area would perhaps easily pass as the most elegant, and certainly the most western in China. It’s the kind of place where you just have to be careful on what you are wearing, how you talk, and how you behave. It’s the place to see, and be seen at. Nestled neatly amongst this nostalgic yet chic Xintiandi area, is the 88 Xintiandi boutique hotel. The property, which has been owned by Langham Hotels since 2011, is a re-creation born out of the sprawls of a sublime Shikumen residence. Inspired by beautiful artifacts and designs, this hotel will simply blow your mind away when it comes to attention of detail as presented by a boutique hotel. I love it. When you are in this part of Shanghai, you can’t feel for a whisker of a second that you are in China. When one stands on one of the suite balconies looking the park with the Pudong side in the horizon, they could easily be forgiven for thinking that you are in New York or London. The view is very deceiving that I would actually given this city the slogan of ‘New York of the east’ instead of ‘the Paris of the east’. The hotel’s 53 well-appointed rooms & suites range from 41 sq m to 140 sq m and come along with a blend of exquisite Chinese and Western design concepts designed by Shui-On architects. Dark woods, well-equipped kitchens and bathrooms, oblique angles, designer toiletries by Gilchrist & Soames, complimentary wireless internet, state-of-the-art gym, and plenty of intimate space that would make you effortlessly feel like royalty- it’s no wonder that the 88 Xintiandi has attracted the likes of architect Kengo Kuma to create a spanking new Shang Xia suite in the hotel. Oh, and not to mention the in-room blender, microwave over, in-room foot massage machine, and even a barometer so you don’t forget to take your umbrella (which is, of course, provided). Therefore, effectively it seems that nothing is left forgotten, and all the creature comforts are provided. Or, are they? While food lovers can order from one of the hotel’s thirty strongly recommended trendy restaurants and bars in the Xintiandi area, or indulge in all-day limited amount of finger food at the Club Lounge; there is not much else in terms of food available at the hotel itself. Hats off to the hotel’s management for providing a fine choice of eateries in the neighborhood however the ordering of food from nearby restaurants may not be everyone’s cup of tea because of the hassle of ordering food from a restaurant outside of the hotel’s premises. I personally tried it and happened to have a good experience. The ordering of food is quite convenient. Effectively this hotel is essential for the essentials. Mind you, the Club Lounge has some treats on offer too. One of the dishes that started on their "breakfast dish of the day" became so popular that they have made it a standard item on the buffet. I also had the pleasure to attend an 'agarwod ceremony' being performed at the Shang Xia inspired suite at the 88 Xintiandi. Agarwood is the infected wood of the Aquilaria tree. Historically the Muslim Sufis and Japanese Shaman use agarwood oil in their esoteric ceremonies. The agarwood oil and smell is meant to enhance mental clarity and bring calmness and tranquility. During the ceremony, the healer inhales the agarwood many times to get the smell to perfection. I must say that during the ceremony it did feel a bit awkward just sniffing the agarwood smell in a certain pattern. 'Would this be addictive, and good for health?', I wondered. I have give kudos to the ceremony master, Ms. Wendy, by showing her utmost professionalism when performing the agarwood ceremony She must have a lot of good patience to be able to maintain the exposure for such a long time. On one particular evening at the hotel, one of the senior executives of an unmentionable multinational I was having light dinner with posed a common yet challenging question to me (it always happens). ‘What’s your favorite city in the world?’, she asked curiously. My answer was equally compelling. ‘Any city in which I have had a good experience or any city that I am residing in currently’. Therefore, it goes nicely with those wonderful words that at that particular moment in life my favorite city was Shanghai (though Suzhou, and London are equally favorable . I was surprised she did not ask me the same for my hotel, for which I would have given the same answer back. Therefore, here’s cheers to the 88 Xintiandi for making my day (and night). If it sounds like a love affair I have with this city, then you won’t be far away from that mark too. Thanks to China Southern Airlines (see my report HERE!), I was able to fly directly from a cold, and wet London to a rather fresh (and thankfully less humid), Guangzhou, in under 13 hours. Rewind the clock a few months back, and that journey would not have been as comfortable because normally people had to fly first to Hong Kong and then take a coach to get to Guangzhou (not to mention the tireless amount of walking with your luggage through the Hong Kong/Mainland China border at Shenzhen).
The good thing about China Southern Airlines flying from London to Guangzhou is that it will give many people travelling to Australia or other parts of South-East Asia an opportunity to explore the capital city of Guangdong Province. It goes without saying that despite the close proximity of Guangzhou to Hong Kong, the average person in London has probably never heard of this city which boasts over 4,000 years of rich history and culture (except if you are Chinese, of course). Yet the fact is that the majority of Chinese people in London have their origins in this city. This is true for those who are second or third generation Chinese people with businesses in the China Town's of London and Manchester, as they are of Cantonese origin from either Hong Kong or Guangzhou. Guangzhou can be the perfect stop-over destination. For those with 36 hours to spare in this city, I strongly recommend you take a hike up Mount Baiyun (Baiyun Shan) to get breath taking views across the city, shopping at Beijing Lu (Guangzhou's equivalent to Oxford Street), eat your heart's content at one of the oldest and original Cantonese restaurant, Beiyuan (www.thetraveleditor.com), take a evening boat ride along the Pearl River, visit the Chime Long Theme park, and take a ride up the futuristic looking Canton Tower. I am sure that those of you who have been to Hong Kong will agree that if you are here for a vacation, then it’s a great city to be in. One cannot resist but to make the most of themselves in the hustle & bustle of Hong Kong. You can wander around the crowded food markets, indulge in treating yourself to delicious Cantonese food, and burn those calories by walking up and down the endless and hectic streets of Central and Kowloon. It’s a massive playground for everyone. There is so much to see and absorb. I love Hong Kong for its tourist purposes.
If you were a tourist then the local Cantonese people would love you because, of course, you are bringing in money to their economy by any means of tourism. Indeed, it can be expensive (the city’s infrastructure eats your money faster than you can slam down a Starbucks coffee). Enjoy shopping in one of the many malls in Central, Kowloon, or the ICC building, go to the flower markets in Mongkok, and while away the evenings by having a drink at the Ozone bar at The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, and admire the beauty of this fast paced city. However, lets the peel the skin a bit and see if that feeling would be same if you were actually living and working here. The answer is bluntly, no. Why? Because living and working in Hong Kong is a bit like being in a pressure cooker. It’s ridiculously over-crowded for such a tiny city, prices for housing and transportation are over the roof (perhaps the most expensive in the whole world), and the language & culture can present HUGE barriers if you are looking for a job here as an expat (from my experience, Cantonese people generally favour recruiting their own people when it comes to white-collar corporate jobs). Plus, when you are working and living here all you end up doing in your spare time is hiking or sunbathing on the remote islands because there is not much else to do after you have seen everything (and you won’t have time to because you are busy working). There is a great potential for networking opportunities here, though the overcrowded atmosphere can present issues on that part too. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not all that bad here. Hong Kong does have a lot of things to do and see all throughout the year, and plenty of festivals to immerse yourself in. There are foreign people with good white-collar jobs in Hong Kong. However, the average foreigner in Hong Kong with a good job tends to be invited by their company from their own country rather than being recruited locally (you can be employed locally too, but the salary would be localised too). It doesn't need a major survey to be done, or someone to ask Einstein for this fact to be proved. It’s plain & simple, and obvious to the eye. The majority of the expats are white, and male (sorry to be stereotypical, but it's true, especially in the banking and legal industry). Among some of the expats there is that stiff upper lip mentality too where all they know is their local expat pubs and expat ghettos, and they seldom mingle with the local folks. My guess is that this is perhaps a legacy from the colonial British days, and some people have not got over the fact that Hong Kong is not British anymore (it's true, just go and see for yourself in places like Lan Kwai Fong). Some of the professions held by expats in Hong Kong include Bankers, Airline Pilots, professional Teachers, Lawyers, Journalists, or working in the hospitality industry. One of the key areas in which the city has had a negative image in recent years is that Hong Kong still lags years behind the rest of the world when it comes to preventing its citizens from racial discrimination. Hong Kong may be branded as ‘Asia’s World City’ to push it’s image of a multi-cultural centre for Asia. However, in my personal opinion that title should actually go to Singapore because Singapore is a country that promotes active racial harmony among it’s people. If you are in Singapore, you will come across white-collar workers from all backgrounds under the sun, however that’s not the case in Hong Kong. Some people have commented that it’s perhaps because in Hong Kong it’s important to be fluent in Cantonese at the workplace. During the early colonial period when racial segregation was de rigeur, white Europeans, especially the British, enjoyed a prestigious social status while the native Chinese served as their subordinates. It's been 40 years since Hong Kong signed one of the first United Nations human rights treaties: the International Convention on the Elimination of All Forms of Racial Discrimination. Though in July 2009 Hong Kong did bring into effect an anti-racial law, the Racial Discrimination Ordinance. It's not sure if this law has had any positive effect. From my own personal experience, I can disclose that in Hong Kong it is very difficult to get hired for a job if your name is not English sounding or Cantonese. The question here is, how much longer will it take to make Hong Kong live up to its anti-racism slogan of an "inclusive society in harmony"? Even their national airline, Cathay Pacific Airways, claims the following statement 'Cathay Pacific is an equal opportunities employer and has a policy of full compliance with all anti-discrimination legislation'. The question posed again would be, how can an international airline claim to be an equal opportunities employer when hardly any of it's pilots or engineers, or cabin crew are black or from South Asia? During the Colonial years, Cathay Pacific Airways was known to have an open canteen culture of racism. Quite a lot of people in the public limelight have mentioned that they only gave preference to Chinese or white people. However, most recently the airline came into a case of racial discrimination. In 2011, a British man claimed he was refused work by the airline because he was a Muslim (Daily Mail Article is here). Some may even say that Hong Kong is a city that is still littered with bigotry (see these articles here , here, and here). If you want further proof, you only have to look at their employees- ALL the senior management and those who make decisions are either white or Chinese (they give first preference to Cantonese people rather than mainland Chinese people). Further evidence of how racist Hong Kong culture can be seen with the open racism displayed by journalists such as George Chen, who openly uses derogatory terms in his articles. He may be a Yale fellow, but the chap openly discriminates against non-Chinese and non-white people. Would he recruit an Indian journalist to do a job for him (irrespective of nationality)? I highly doubt it. If you happen to be here as a tourist on a Sunday then you’ll be wondering why are there so many Filipino, Thai, and Vietnamese ladies sitting on every possible pavement, park, and even by the roadside? These young (mostly are young) ladies are housemaids, and Sunday is their official day off given by the government, and that’s why they linger and rest all day on the pavements. It clearly looks a bit odd to see so many people sitting on the pavements, and under flyovers, but that’s all the Hong Kong government provides them with. Indeed, most of the labour jobs in Hong Kong are carried out by people from South-East Asia or South Asia. Without being too negatively stereotypical, I would like to point that in contrast, the majority of the white collar jobs are carried out by people who are male, and white (or Cantonese). Some people claim that they cannot get good jobs because of the colour of their skin, while others argue, as pointed out above, that it is because they cannot speak Cantonese. So if language is the question, then you just wonder why those expat Bankers, Lawyers, etc. got jobs when most of them cannot communicate in Cantonese. In China people often ask me whether I am white or yellow (somehow they cannot tell), and I get called all sorts of things under the sun (Mexican, Malaysian, Arabic, Italian, Spanish...you name it)...everything except being called British! Many Chinese people (Cantonese and others) remain unaware that certain forms of behaviours, gestures, and language are unacceptable in multicultural societies elsewhere. I totally sympathize with these people. In the past in Hong Kong one of the biggest-selling toothpaste brands was called Darkie, its trademark being a caricature of an Al Jolson-type smiling black man with gleaming white teeth. In time, protests from certain human right's groups eventually led to the name being changed to Darlie. Before I came to Hong Kong and mainland China, I would not have associated the term racism with this part of the world because, of course, I knew what it was from my childhood in the 1980s and 1990s London. I knew that Chinese people have suffered racism themselves in the UK in times in memorial, so I was not expecting some Chinese people to be racist towards others. Of course, I am not saying everyone is racist (institutionally or otherwise- you don't have to be a member of any far right party in order to project racist views in form or another).. I have never been exposed to any aggressive kind of racism, and I have not let this issue to have a bearing in my life. I never let it hinder onto my work or my career focus ever. I had friends from different cultures, and treated everyone the same. Hong Kong is indeed a place of many faiths. There is the Sikh Gurdwara (Khalsa Diwan), Hindu Mandir, Muslim Mosque, Christian Churches, Jewish Synagogue, and even Buddhist temples. The funny thing is that most Cantonese people are not even aware of the existence in Hong Kong of these places of worships. I recall once mentioning to a highly educated Hong Kong-born friend of mine that I am going to the Sikh Temple for Sunday Service, and his response was: ‘Sikh temple? Are you not talking about the Church in Kowloon?’. What could possibly be the root cause for this? Why don’t the local people understand different cultures, yet they proudly live in a city that is known as ‘Asia’s World City’? I was highly surprised as Hong Kong’s education system is also one of the best in the world. Now, I am not sure if the infamous Chungking Mansion in Hong Kong’s Nathan road might be the root cause of this whole racial problem (or if race was the problem that led to the Chungking Mansions). The latter area is a prime example because it is full of South Asian touts selling all kinds of things from fake Rolex watches to homemade Armani suits. They have been there for years going back to times in memorial since the British colonial days, and most probably, they will be there forever. One wonders how they initially ended up there in the first place? I must say that their presence does give a bad impression for the whole community, and it could be that they are the ones who let the rest of the decent Asians down badly. Read ‘Ghetto at the Center of the World: Chungking Mansions, Hong Kong’ by Gordon Mathews to get an idea. It’s very common to be approached by a Hong Kong tout and be asked: ‘’Hello Sir, would you like a Rolex watch, Indian food, Indian/Chinese/Thai/Russian massage girl, a new tailor made suit?’. Could it be that perhaps because of these touts that some Cantonese people refrain to sit next to a South Asian person on the MTR, even if that seat is the only free seat in the whole carriage? (I have seen this with my own eyes many times- but I was not the victim!). Therefore, my personal conclusion is that Hong Kong is ‘Asia’s World City’ when it comes to welcoming tourists, but not when it comes to living and working in. In direct contrast to Hong Kong is Singapore, which is a truly multicultural country, and does provide a fair way for everyone irrespective of colour, cast, race etc. I wish I could say better words for the latter part, but if I did not feel this way, then I would not have written it like this. You have good people and bad people everywhere in the world and in every nation. However, it’s the sad collective thought of the people that can let the whole country down. It only takes one chance to make a lasting impression. A version of this article was published on Huffington Post..here. On Saturday the 13th of October, I was a guest on the ‘Lucky Cat’ show at London’s Resonance FM radio station (www.resonancefm.com). Zoë Baxter, the DJ, Broadcaster, and Asian Culture Connoisseur (http://luckykitty.blogspot.co.uk/), normally hosts the show every Saturday at 3.30pm. However since Zoë was unavailable this weekend, so covering her spot was Anna Chen (read about her at www.annachen.co.uk) who writes for the Guardian, New International Magazine, and the SCMP among others. In this lively one hour radio programme, Anna played some tracks from her Dad's China Revolutionary folks songs LPs. Anna's poetry book Reaching for my Gnu is out now. For more poetry and Anna's upcoming gigs see: http://madammiaow.blogspot.com Other guests on the show were the well-known guitarist and music journalist, Charles Shaar Murray, who has just recently published his new book on Jimi Hendrix (www.charlesshaarmurray.com), and the Chinese actor, Hi Ching who made one of the best screen villains: Li Si, the prime minister to Chin Shi Huang Di, China’s first Emperor. Topics discussed included the ruthless nature of Emperor Qin (as depicted also on the BBC website http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-19922863), and how China has changed since the 1970s. I have been in London for the past 2 weeks on a private visit. It is good to be back in the U.K. for a short break, and especially after experiencing my recent interesting adventures in Shenzhen, Shanghai, Xi'an, and Beijing. If you missed listening to the programme, than here is the podcast link: http://luckycat.podomatic.com/player/web A special thank you to Anna Chen for hosting the show, and thanks to Zoë Baxter for the links. Alitalia's 'Juliet Juliet' having some interesting problems at Beijing Capital Airport. The Italian First Officer lost his temper and started shouting at the ground staff from the window....'Hurry up guys!' (of course, he wasn't using such polite language)...in an era when time is money in the aviation industry there is seldom room for failure...so, therefore, next time you are delayed....there is no point blaming the pilot (he's on your side!)...
The 2nd edition of my 1st book on China (The Newcomers Handbook to China), has finally been published and is available in Kindle, and Soft Copy on Amazon and all other book websites.
The last book was published just prior to the Beijing 2008 Olympics. China has changed a lot since then- even though it seems like yesterday! So, now this completely revised and updated second edition of the ‘Newcomer's Handbook Country Guide: China’ focuses on Beijing, Chengdu, Chongqing, Dalian, Guangzhou, Hangzhou, Nanjing, Qingdao, Shanghai, Shenzhen, Suzhou, Tianjin, and Wuxi, with additional information on Macau and Hong Kong. Its 420 pages detail issues relating to culture shock, communication, and what to bring, as well as essentials of Chinese history, housing, transportation, health care, and more. This volume is especially useful for an individual seeking employment in or transferred to China, stressing how to function in China's job market, especially the business and educational sectors. I have got many lovely messages from readers of my first book, and I would like to say a BIG thank you to you all for your advice and your inspiration. Without your advice I would not have been able to exercise more improvements on my 2nd book, and it is only with the assistance of the readers and because of the moderate success of the first book that this 2nd edition is now published. I hope that for those of you going to China for the first time, this will be a valuable tool for your new journey and life in this beautiful country! Today (or yesterday, or tomorrow if you're on the other side of the world!) you can log on and buy 'China: Newcomers Handbook to China 2nd Edition' from Amazon globally. The link is below and thanks again for your help. Let me know what you think, and please feel free to write reviews too. For MEDIA: If you want to write a review or interview me, then you can contact me directly for media interviews through this website. Thank you All the best Navjot The link for the new book is HERE. Press Release can be found at this link: www.pitchengine.com The MEET is a contemporary steakhouse located on the 2nd floor of the Kerry Hotel in Pudong, Shanghai. The restaurant has a rather unusual foyer where dinars can see the meat cuts well placed behind a glass. At first, it appears to look rather like a cross between a glamorized butchers shop, a nightclub, and an upmarket restaurant. It’s no surprise that they do stock the largest selection of meat in the whole of Shanghai, and it’s easy to see why.
The restaurant, with it’s 112 seats which also include a private ‘Masters Table’ for 14 people, shimmers in warm shades of red, burgundy, and brown. It’s a very masculine-looking dining room with leather banquettes and booths, mahogany wood tables and floors, and a sense of warmth. There is a real zest of luxurious settings in place, and it’s a message to welcome the classy white coloured dinars I suppose. It’s thankfully not as noisy as one would imagine it to be (as noisy as steakhouses can be sometimes), but still good enough to create a family gathering atmosphere. The staff seem very proud and attentive, and some of them are even eager to recommend some dishes from the menu for you. The menu, which comes with some cheesy messages like ‘don’t forget to order the side dishes!’, is actually one that delivers more than a hint of your average steakhouse. The first bites of the evening are of ‘very tender grilled baby abalone’, and ‘oysters rockefeller’. The former is a canapé style dish where the abalone is neatly covered with red peppers garnished with lemon juice. While the latter is basically consisting of high quality oysters. These oysters are first class in terms of freshness and taste. A good quality oyster such as the ones provided at the MEET can provide up to 222% of your Recommended Daily Amount (RDA) of Zinc in 100 grams, and would provide just under 1 gram of Omega-3. These two properties alone would be enough to provide a healthy lifestyle if you eat them every day. Nevertheless, it’s still good to get a one-off experience and eat fresh good quality oysters. One thing I began to notice is that the dishes at the MEET are all very colourful, quite perhaps the most colourful I have seen for some time when doing reviews. This can only indicate one or two things. The food at the MEET is absolute fresh and it is brought in from especially organic farms in China. Apart from the meat, most of the other dishes are not imported. Next up was the rich, creamy, flavourful, and colourful in bright yellow ‘Boston lobster bisque’. What made it even more appetising was the shredded minute sprinkling of the parsley and chives. Absolutely wonderful. As close as you can get to Michelin star quality. Sticking with the theme of seafood, we decided to go for the recommended ‘jumbo lump crab cake’. This dish a traditional American dish, and the best jumbo lump crab cakes derive from Maryland. The key to the true flavour of this dish is to not have many breadcrumbs, but have a rich amount of the jumbo lump crab- a larger sized variety of crab known for its rich juicy meat. What really impressed me was the rich bright colour of the dish. The steak was a winner too. We went for the ‘MEET signature Ningaloo tomahawk marbling score 4+’. This massive piece of meat was both delicious and, heavy in weight. The 1.8kg to 2.4kg serves 2-4 people. The steak had been marinated in rich OXO sauce, red wine, hoisin, garlic, and ginger. It, too, was tender, and ridiculously scrumptious. Very impressive. For the side dishes we had the oven roasted tomatoes, potato wedges, and sautéed broccoli. At it’s best, MEET, is very good indeed. You just can’t argue when someone is cooking big platefuls of heartiness at dinner, can you? Located in the futuristic part of Shanghai’s Pudong district, the Kerry Hotel, which belongs to the Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts group, is a fine example of where China’s high lifestyle is heading. With the rather unattractive looking Shanghai Exhibition Centre located right on the hotel’s doorstep, some people may argue that the location is not as glamorous as that of Bund, or even as nostalgic as that of the French Concession. To put it bluntly, it just looks like any other bog standard office building from the outside. There is not a single indication that some architectural genius has mastered this piece of boring concrete. OK, so the outside of the building may be an actual failure in terms of design (well done to the unmentionable architect). Nevertheless, just step inside and you’ll be exposed to a rather different world. Can looks really be that deceptive, I wonder? Let’s find out.
The journey time from the point of arriving at Shanghai’s Pudong airport, where my chauffeur sent by the hotel met me, must have been less than 40 minutes at the most. Upon arriving at the hotel, I was quickly whisked away to my room where I was showcased the hotel’s revolutionary paperless check in procedure using iPads. It saves the approx. 80,000 pieces of paper being used every year , and an innovative initiative by the hotel management to make the future bright as they say. First impressions of the hotel are that this place is spacious, very chic, and feels fresh. There is definitely an air of elegance around as one takes a short walk around the lobby. The cheery on top of the cake has to be the rooms themselves. Split into five categories, the hotel’s 574 well-appointed guestrooms and suites are generously spaced between 42 to 168 square meters. Each rooms provides fascinating views across to the Century Park or the rather unattractive Shanghai Exhibition Centre which looks more like a mini airport when standing at the 31st floor, the hotel’s highest. What really impressed me most was the generous space of the rooms, and the modern amenities that come with it. Take toiletries by L’Occitane, a massive rain forest power-shower the size of two London telephone booths, a Jacuzzi, wireless internet, Nespresso machines, 40-inch flat television screens, iPod docking station, complimentary mini-bar drinks for the first round, and even a notepad and pencil next to your toilet seat (now, you didn’t think they’d have that did you?). Those fortunate enough to fork out the money and stay in any one of the seven floors dedicated to the Clubrooms are rewarded a 24-hour butler service, and with complimentary accesses to the Club Lounge. With delicious snacks, and beverages including the hotel’s own brewed beer, available all day long, this Club Lounge is like no other in the city. There is a potpourri of food on offer, including various pots of yogurt, juices of various kinds, cereals, fruits, alcohol drinks, delicious chocolates, and cheesecakes to die for, and endless cups of tea and coffee. In addition, with things like a ‘wine vending machine’, there is definitely more variety here and it’s a place to savour for as a city getaway from the hustle and bustle of the crowds. Take a drink, forget the outside, and just salute the future of this city. The Club Lounge is not for lunch or dinner, which is why I wandered off to have a drink at the BREW, then dinner at the MEET restaurant, and then had lunch the following day at the COOK restaurant. The latter is perhaps not the place to go to if you are vegan as it specialises in steaks, and meat is the key attraction here. Judging from the display of a ghastly array of meat chops, including a few lambs legs, hanging behind the red lantern lit room I it does make ones stomach churn. It’s look like a cross between a luxury restaurant and a glamorized butchers shop all in one. But, fear not, as the MEET is perhaps one of the best steakhouses you’ll visit in this city (it really is). The Kerry in Pudong is proud to have their own small craft brewery located inside the actual bar called the BREW. The 153-seat BREW is a beehive for city yuppies looking to while away the evening in good company. The bar specialises in brewing their own six signature beers, and a cider. You can either try all six of them if you want. The two favourite ones are the ‘Indian Pale Ale’, and the ‘Pils’. Both of these are also widely available in the Club Lounge, in the mini-bar or in any of the restaurants at the hotel. On the other hand, the COOK is a flamboyant hall made up of open kitchens that highlights the best dies from around the world. Indian, Malaysian, Japanese, Chinese, Western…vegan, you name it and it’s all there. The best thing to do is to purchase a card from the counter, and try bits and bobs of everything. The cost will then automatically be added to your hotel room bill. After all that heavy food, I decided to wander off to the gym to have a look what’s on offer. I was in for a surprise. I was expecting a small averagely sized hotel gym. The large Gym, which is open 24-hours a day, 7 days a week, is big enough to house at least 300 people at one time. Guests can book their own personal trainer, and have a personalised measurement area to see how fit they are and which are suitable for them. One thing I did notice was that the area seemed to be full of expatriates, and not as many residing guests as one would have thought. For sure, the Kerry is definitely more of an up market apartment style for the expat community, and that’s why they also have one tower just for Kerry residences (again mostly for expats). They even have a dedicated children’s ‘Adventure Zone’, almost like a mini Disneyland or Thorpe Park but without the Disney characters. This is the place where rich parents can leave their kids for the day (so they don’t have to bother with them), and go to work or shopping. The Spa offers a pro-active and multi-disciplinary approach to physiotherapy, restorative massage, and skincare all inspired by the Chinese martial arts of Wudang Wushu. What’s interesting about all the spa treatments here is that they all begin with a Tai Chi exercise. Not too difficult, but it’s designed to loosen up the tired muscles and to make the legs and arms a bit more flexible. After the initial Tai Chi exercise, it is time to go for the actual massage treatment which itself is a journey that provides a sheer heaven for the sense. Does it make you look younger? Maybe not, but it defiantly makes you feel younger! With those thoughts in mind, I can say that the Kerry Hotel, Pudong is more fun and jazzy compared to other hotels in the city. So yes, looks can indeed be deceptive. Just make sure you don’t come here intending to take photos of a beautiful building from the outside though. I have always wondered what the Lufthansa Centre in Beijing is all about. I have been to Beijing many times but never got the chance to go and have a look at this widely talked about building. ‘Lufthansa Centre? In Beijing?’ naturally such questions were constantly being popped up in my mind. So finally, earlier this year I had a chance to go and see the famous area. Apart from being popular for being the China Headquarters for Lufthansa German Airlines, this building, which is owned by the Lufthansa Group, is also well known for the 20-year old award-winning Kempinski Hotel Beijing. The location could not have been any better as its located only around 40 minutes away from the airport by taxi, and around a similar time by the metro. The airport express train is only a one-station hop away from the Lufthansa Centre. The lavish lobby is one of the few in Beijing that provides natural light to enter the foyer through the huge glass roof. It’s marvellous décor is complete with mahogany, teak, as well as expensive designer leather sofas. Able to accommodate up to 1,200 people, the hotel possesses 526 well appointed guestrooms and suites, including 4 executive floors. The hotel was built to highlight the best of German hospitality and to make it home away from home for German and Swiss executives coming to Beijing for a business trip. Indeed, because of the hotel’s close proximity to the foreign embassies, and airline offices, so therefore it makes sense that most of the guests are diplomats and other similar professionals. Which is one of the key reasons why the hotel has been the crew base for Swiss International Airlines, and Lufthansa German Airlines. However, it can be safely said that the hotel’s rooms seem to have seen their hey days in yesteryear. The ambiance, the smell, and general aroma has faded in time, and it’s clear to see. Of course, there is that flair of elegance. The rooms themselves decor appear to have been renovated but it all looks ancient compared to the sheer modernity of the newer 5-star hotels that are cropping up in Beijing and other cities in China. The staff are very tentative and caring, and it’s not their fault if things don’t go well as planned. I had to change my room as the one I was offered smelt of cigarettes- now that was surprising as the hotel is meant to be smoking free. The beds are comfortable, which is perhaps the most important thing about any hotel. On saying this, the hotel’s management are doing a splendid job in making sure that the quality of the Kempinski brand is kept going strong, and especially with the challenges that they are facing in the booming hospitality industry in China. All of the rooms have modern amenities such as a master control box, which allows you to switch on or off the electricity, call for the concierge, and even control the television from the comfort of your bed. Then there is wireless internet, and Kempinski’s own branded amenities. The views are not all that great from the windows, and what’s makes it challenge is the myriad of high rise building erupting around the hotel that block the beautiful skyline which guests in the early days used to enjoy from their rooms. The mini-bar is well stocked, and contains German, and Swiss goodies such as Ricola, and Weis Schwarzwalder Kiefch Waffee. The crème of the hotel are its superb food & beverage outlets. There are a total of seven distinctive restaurants and bars offering everything including traditional German cuisine at the much loved Paulaner Bräuhaus, Japanese cuisine at Honzen, Dragon Place for Chinese cuisine, and even Italian cuisine at the Trattoria la Gondola. The thing that differentiates the Kempinski Beijing from all the others is that this is one of the few hotels in China that offers something else apart from just a typical Italian, Chinese or Japanese cuisine because that’s what all the other luxurious hotels in the market offer. Those with a sweet tooth would love the Kempi Deli, an award-winning German style delicatessen and coffee bar offering home favourites such as ‘schokokuchen mit kirschen (chocolate chip cake with cherries)’. It’s well worth a visit. Paulaner Bräuhaus at the Kempinski Beijing Located in the beautiful gardens of the 20-year old Kempinski Hotel in Beijing, the Paulaner Bräuhaus, which is as old as the hotel itself, is configured to look like a German beer garden cum a restaurant. The whole complex is owned by the Lufthansa Group, and hence it’s name also is ‘The Lufthansa Centre’. The area is an expat haven for Germans living in Beijing. The German School of Beijing, and the German Embassy are very close too. So it’s no surprise that slap bang in the middle of it all is one of the most German restaurant’s. It’s best to book a table in advance as it does get crowded fairly quickly, and especially during the weekend and evenings.
The food is better than fine, though certainly not light, by any means. The chefs at the Paulaner do feed like there is no tomorrow. Though mainly an expat enclave, the Paulaner is actually more popular with the local folk. I would hate to generalise, however on the whole it is a fact that Chinese people adore beer, or anything to do with beer. Take China’s Snow Beer as a prime example of that. As of 2009, it is officially the best selling beer brand in the world, with annual sales of 61 million hectolitres, despite largely being sold only in China. Therefore, it is no surprise that Paulaner is doing so well with the city yuppies from across the road. Paulaner’s elegant, expensive interior, impeccable service, and regular live music add on to the attractions that this place offers. Every dinar is presented with a breadbasket containing typical German style bread rolls, and also a plate with three types of bread dressings that include butter, ham paste, and cottage cheese. The menu is purely German, with a slight hint of Austrian and Swiss cuisine. For starters, I went for the ‘linsensuppe mit frankfurter (lentil soup with frankfurter sausages cut into pieces, bacon)’. Considering that the restaurant was busy when I got there, I was surprised that the dish arrived within 4 minutes of me ordering it, and seemed to be just waiting to be served to anyone who wanted it. Equally well, I was not surprised that it was almost cold too. Now, either the chefs at the Paulaner have a remarkable talent for creating quick fire dishes, or it was made in advance and waiting in a pipeline to be served. Having a German restaurant in China would not make you feel as if you are in Germany, nevertheless, in terms of taste; I had to admit that the food was good. The staff wore the traditional German costumes, and were very friendly and assisting, but sometimes it came across as dinars had to remind them and ask for minor but important things like salt and pepper. Sticking to the German theme, I ordered a 1-litre glass of Halles beer, which sadly I did not end up finishing. I think I personally overestimated my ability to drink such large amounts of alcohol. However, more importantly of all, there was no way I could hold that massive beer glass with just one hand. Even a medium sized man like myself with an average sized hand felt like a baby holding a beer glass with two hands! But then again, I was in a German restaurant and it was all part of the good fun. If the beer was not enough to fill me up on its own, then the next dish up was nothing short of a mammoth dish to eat. The ‘regenbogenforelle müllerin art (pan-fried rainbow trout with tomatoes, lemon juice and vegetables, sour cream dill sauce)’ did not look too pleasing, as it tasted. The presentation was dull and all you could see was a sleeping fish along with a few bits and bobs of vegetables. However, as you move away the skin gently then it tends to reveal the delicious pinkish meat of the fish, which is not only a feast for the eyes but also for the cake hole. While Paulaner has branches in most of the bigger cities of China, where there is a considerably large amount of expats, the branch at the Kempinski Hotel in Beijing is the oldest and perhaps the most well-known because of its connection to the hotel and the Lufthansa centre in Beijing. I have been reviewing Chinese restaurants for quite a long time that it doesn’t take too long to find out if the place is more of a glamorized version of your local Chinese takeaway or if really the place the befits an emperor. Nevertheless, since this was the Shangri-la hotel in Pudong, I was hoping to have my eyes set on something a far more grand than would be on offer. So here I was at the beautifully decorated Gui Hua Lou Even though the hotel has been open since 1998, the 160-seat Gui Hua Lou only came into existence in 2006. The key to the success of the restaurant has to be in the hands of Chef Gao Xian Sheng, who brings with him not only the 22 years of culinary experience, but a real charm to surprise even the most experienced of dinars. This place is packed, and that’s also a testament to its existence. It’s difficult to list all the dishes that we tried, but some of the highlights were “curried prawns”, and the “Xi’an style local noodles”. It’s seems hard to believe but the smooth and ultra thin noodles are handmade to perfection. When you take each mouthful, the noodles don’t break that easily even though they are thin and are seem to appear fragile. The curried prawns are equally tantalising, both for the tongue and a feast for the eyes. The ‘hot and spicy’ sauce served with the dishes achieved a delightful balance so perfect between the heat and the sesame that it was not so spicy after all. The only thing about the Sichuan style spicy chicken is that it came with bones. Call me spoilt, but I like my meat with bones, and without the skin. Though to balance the argument, I am aware that if the meat is not served on the bone and skin, then it ain’t the real deal! In addition, it’s not like your average chicken dish, the meat is crunchy (because of the fried spices on it), and tenderly succulent. It’s the kind of dish that you can keep eating endlessly if there was no stomach lining. To my delight I found out that Chef Sheng is from Yangzhou, famous for the ‘Yangzhou chou fan’ (egg fried rice), and so it was with without mention that I asked him to present me an authentic dish of this traditional and simple dish. I am a huge fan of ‘Yangzhou chow fan’, and it somewhat bought a huge smile on my face when the chef told me that he will prepare the dish. ‘Please wait, I’ll be back soon’ Said Chef Sheng. He did not fail in his task, and produced one of the best ‘Yangzhou chow fan’s’ I have had in times in memorial. This was not my first time to the Gui Hua Lou, and I am sure it won’t be my last either. In the late 1990s the Pudong area of Shanghai consisted of nothing but a few buildings, and those were not classed to be high rise either. The award-winning Shangri-La Pudong was one of those buildings, and when opened in August 1998 it was one of the tallest and most grand 5-star hotels in this part of the city. Ever since that day, countless other international brands have opened and in a space of under 16 years, the Pudong area around the Shangri-La has become something of a ‘Manhattan of the East’. With so much competition going on all the time, it is no wonder why the team at the Shangri-La Pudong are doing so much in terms of providing excellent customer service, and striving to stay ahead of the competition. And it is exactly that one key feature that makes the Shangri-La Pudong stand out from the rest. It is not unusual to see the General Manager, and the Hotel Manager both in the overly decorated lobby at some point of the day. It just goes to show that even though they are busy the one key thing on their minds is to maintain the quality of the service provided to the customer- the people who pay their bills. Unlike most other hotels in the area which only have one tower, the Shangri-La comprises of two towers- River Wing and Grand Tower. Combined together, the two towers have 952 spacious and well-appointed guestrooms and suites. The Grand Tower is the newer one of the two towers. It was designed by a New York based architect named Kohn Perdesen Fox (KPF) and was opened in 2005 with 375 rooms and suites. This also includes the premier room, which is 54 square meters. The River Wing houses the rest of the 577 rooms and suites. The true glory of the rooms only comes to affect once you are inside them- full of rich ambiance and warm colours, and providing a true shaker of what absolute luxury feels like. Not only that but it glamorises the reality of being in the fantasy legend of the Shangri-La. The rooms have a few jewels to peek at too. The journey to karma begins once you are whisked by the smooth and fast elevator to your desired floor and room. Be welcomed by priceless views of the Bund on one side, and that of the futuristic Pudong financial district skyline from the other, security box large enough to hold a 15 inch laptop, a powerful monsoon shower, exclusively Mediterranean style wash basins next to the conventional Western style toilet, toiletries by L’Occitane En Provence, and 6 different pillows on offer on the menu including one remarkably filled with traditional Chinese Medicine. Each room proudly presents a copy of ’Lost Horizon’ by James Hilton, the book which inspired the Shangri-La legend and the book that gave way to the hotel’s existence. The screening room, gym, and Chi spa – a sense of heaven cocoon straight out of Lost Horizon – are well worth the trip. On the subject of the Chi Spa, it’s worth pointing out that unlike other hotels, the Shangri-La has dedicated a whole just for the spa. It’s so good that you may as well feel as if you are in the woods of Tibet. Deriving from the origins of the Shangri-La legend, the Chi Spa offers 21 various treatments and gives a sense that it’s a place of personal peace. I went for the ‘Chi Balance’ treatment for 2 hours that started with a shower and a foot bath, followed by a unique blend of Asian techniques personalised to suit the current yin/yang status of anyone, focusing on the earth element (building chi), wood element (moving chi), and fire element (clarity and peace of mind). Techniques include acupressure, energising massage for yang simulation and a relaxing massage for yin calm. Apart from the massage treatment itself, the best part of it was the chance to smell and choose the five different treatment oils are offered of which you can choose one. The humorous part is that by the time you get to smell the last oil, your nose can’t recall what was the first one- it’s all good fun. If that’s not enough then try one of the two swimming pools, two health clubs and an outdoor tennis courts. If the time prevails then this is certainly a playground for the wealthy. And where to begin for the food? There are 10 innovative designer restaurants, bars, and lounges to choose from. Each displays a work of architectural and culinary art and they are all designed by international award-winning creative geniuses such as Adam D. Tihany, Bilkey Llinas Design, and Super Potato. The latter is perhaps the most famous of all as this Japanese company is getting its teeth into all the luxury hotel brands in China. The highlight? There are too many to list here. If you want to try a richly authentic Chinese cuisine then make sure book a table at the Gui Hua Lou, which serves a blend of Shanghainese, Sichuianese and, Huaiyangnese cuisine. Oh, and how can I forget the Jade on 26? Of course everybody that comes to Shanghai must come and have a drink at least at this beautifully designed by Adam D. Tihany. The Jade on 36 guarantees marvellous views across to the Bund and the rest of Shanghai’s Puxi area, and can even turn your evening into an affairs de amour. We also tried out the Yi Café, where you could easily have been fooled into thinking that this is a night market in Asia. With it’s contemporary design, warm lighting and food stations laden with cuisine from around the world, you can easily make this out to be a food festival every day. If you have the stomach for it then it is worth coming for everyday for at least a month and even then perhaps you would be able to accomplish completing all the dishes on offer. Free flowing drinks are a bonus for cuisine. The food is very exciting- big bowls of fish in fragrant broth, beautiful salads of mango, papaya, sliced dragonfruit, cheeses, salami, sushi, smoked salmon…oh I can go on and on. There are 10 open kitchens, each displaying a live cooking show everyday where native chefs present culinary delights of Japanese cuisine, Chinese cuisine, Mexican cuisine, Middle-eastern cuisine, Malaysian cuisine, Western European cuisine, and Indian cuisine. Each table is manned by a native chef from the country where the cuisine comes from, and that goes to show how serious the Shangri-La Pudong is in providing a truly personalised service to its guests. On the note of Indian cuisine, I can say (as a man of Indian origin), that it’s not easy to find high quality Indian food in China. The majority of the Indian restaurants in China are shabby, the ambiance looks cheap, the price is too high, and the quality of the end product is also comparable to something out of a no-frills take-away in the ghettos of Paris. I would not divulge into the number of times I have had to deal with the infamous ‘Delhi-belly’ IN China after eating Indian food because the quality of the food is just so bad. Nevertheless, on a happy note I can tell you with my hand on my heart that the Indian food at the Shangri-La Pudong is amazing. The chef has done a fabulous job in making sure that the guests experience the best Indian cuisine ever, and he has definitely passed my quality check. The icing on the cake for the Shangri-la has to be the chauffeur driven limousines that can whisk passengers from any part of the city upon arrival or departure. Now, to make it really stand out they have even added a spanking new Rolls-Royce Phantom. On that note, I would like to add that I am sure that if the Shangri-L Pudong’s building was a standing man (or woman) surrounded by all the other grand buildings around it, then he (or she) would say proudly turned around to all of them and say: ‘Now, beat that!’. The Yi Cafe - Gastronomic adventure at Shangri-La Pudong, Shanghai!
It's that time of the year when Chinese people give each other moon cakes as a gift.
Based on Chinese legend and cultural traditions, the Mid-Autumn Festival is to commemorate the selfless act of Chang’e, the wife of a merciless ruler. Many centuries ago, she drank the elixir of immortality to put an end to her husband’s evil intentions. The Mid-Autumn Festival is also fondly known as the Lantern or the Mooncake Festival. The festival, celebrated on the 15th day of the eighth month in the Chinese calendar, has no fixed date on the Western calendar, but the day always coincides with a full moon. This year the Mid-Autumn festival falls between the 27th September to the 2nd October. The Chinese have been celebrating the Mid-Autumn festival since the beginning of the early Tang dynasty (618 – 907). In times in memorial, people would make offerings of fruit, alcohol, and other foods to the moon god, to express gratitude for a bumper harvest. The festival is now associated more with bright red lanterns and the eating of moon cakes. If you are in mainland China during the Mid-Autumn Festival, it will be impossible not to notice moon cakes being sold everywhere. If you own a business in China or in the Chinese diaspora, and you are not selling moon cakes then you are not in (period!). These delicious (yet heavy) cakes are usually round shaped and are believed to have originated from Yuan dynasty (1206-1368) revolutionaries, who are said to have used the pastries to pass secret messages between each other. Usually moon cakes are infused with one or two embedded egg yolks (two are better), and lotus seed- these two ingredients alone make the moon cakes heavy and too many can give you a big belly!. During this period, the countries of China, Taiwan, Macau, and Hong Kong serve up an exciting assortment of creative moon cakes in a variety of flavours during the Mid-Autumn Festival (there are even low-sugar options). Every brand in the Food and Beverage industry wants to be unique and take their share in the market by showcasing the best of these moon cakes. You can try the iced moon cakes, Starbucks moon cakes, and various flavoured moon cakes such as red bean paste, cheese, chocolate, pork, beef, sesame tofu, sweet potato, silky smooth milk tea, black truffle, mango, strawberry and caviar. My favorite style is the Häagen-Dazs iced moon cake. Redicliously delicious ice cream melts all over your fingers and hands. It's so good that it's difficult to resist from licking ice-cream off your fingers and hands clean! All across the country, people will be gathering for family meals and enjoying lantern displays and a festival atmosphere in the light of the full moon. Similar to the American Thanksgiving Day, the Mid-Autumn Festival is a festival to rejoice and spend time with loved ones. I am glad to witness the event here in mainland China. It is true that the moon cake is a multi-billion industry, and it can be a very successful business IF you tap into the right taste and fend off your competitors. Oh, and meanwhile as I gobble down another moon cake, I am reminiscing on how lovely to see that the Chinese people thankfully have not lost their culture and tradition despite moon cakes being made by foreign companies such as KFC, McDonald’s, and others. Its just another food for thought. Or it is perhaps another case of ‘How do you eat yours?’…..enjoy! There are three Starwoods properties in the ancient Chinese city of Xi’an, which has a rich history of over 1,300 years. Unlike other hotel brands, which offer the similar typo of cuisine wherever you go, the good thing is that all three of those properties have something different to offer when it comes to providing a selection of fine cuisine. Since I am huge fan of steakhouses, I decided to go and check out the ‘Steakhouse’ at the newly built Sheraton Xi’an North City Hotel. Designed by Wilson Associates LLC, this hotel is one of the newest ones in the city and with 491 guestrooms and suites it is one of the largest too. The restaurant is located on the 2nd floor, and provides an ample amount of breathing space for busy professionals or tourists to enjoy their evening with good food and in a nice environment.
Indeed, set in an airy environment, the Steakhouse provides modern and contemporary dining experiences offering one of the finest prime cuts in the city. As any expert veteran chef will tell you that it’s not easy to find good quality steak in China. Even if the meat is imported then it tends to lose its taste and juices while in transit during airfreight and being frozen for such a long time. Believe you in me, I have seen the good, the ugly, and the utterly horrible steak in my time in China. Therefore, with that in mind it was time for me to see what the Steakhouse had in store. We entered the restaurant, which was surprisingly empty on the weekday evening; to be welcomed by an air of calmness and an ambiance that portrays nothing but luxury. The highly experienced Chef de Cuisine, Kadafy Hosenally, was on a mission to prove that not only was he good at cooking but also making people smile with his well toned light humour. The Steakhouse is a place that strives to provides the best of Australian beef, as well as promote local Chinese beef for its steak too in the form of Qingdao beef. Everyone in the food industry will tell you that premier British or Australian beef is some of the best in the world. However, the problem with steakhouses in the west, I believe, is that they are provided in nationwide chains which makes them look shabby, and are not cooked of the right quality or given that 5-star luxury care that the dish deserves. So, this is where restaurants such as the Steakhouse are excelling because they provide a highly experienced chef along with right correct environment in which to eat the food in (you don’t need to shout across the table to be heard here!), and the right ambiance. We commenced by tucking into the ‘Caesar salad tossed in homemade dressing with shaved parmesan cheese’. This was classy food. Normally when you enter into a steakhouse in China you wonder so many things relating to the quality of the service, the ambiance, the background music, and above all else the food itself. The crunchiness of the salad felt as close to mum’s cooking as you can get- but not quite there (yet), and the ingredients that were used to blend in the rest of this dish were of acceptable portions. The ‘Mediterranean seafood soup’ was filled with fresh seafood, vegetables with a hint of saffron. It seemed to come across as having the flavour and texture of a freshly blossomed rose. The only disappointment was having a single piece of prawn, and that made the presentation look a bit bland. On the whole it was worth every bite to savour. Presentation is not everything sometimes. Then arrived the dish that I was waiting for the whole evening to try- the 10oz rib eye. Rather than try the Australian Wagyu beef, I decided to opt for the Chinese one. Coming from premier Qingdao grain in the north of China, the same place where the popular Qingdao Beer is manufactured, the steak came without flavour, not tough, served medium rare, as asked. Likewise, the service, sometimes by Chef Kadafy himself, was lovely. I was very amused by his jokes and I think this man is a credit to the restaurant’s well being. The fact is that you can’t argue when you are presented with a good steak like that, and it goes to show that Qingdao beef is not bad too. And then onto the finale. Mango mousse cake served with lime mango salad seemed to do the trick. I could have easily gone for the equally dashing tiramisu, but then again I have tried tiramisu for times in memorial so I thought I would try something different. I made a good choice. It may not be as colourful as one hopped it to be, however the taste is out of this world. It’s not spongy or soggy, and not too hard on the teeth either. All in all we left the restaurant with smiles, and it’s all kudos to the team for trying their best to bring as much of quality rather than quantity into the Steakhouse. Located in the newer part of the ancient Chinese city of Xi’an, around 4km from the city centre the spanking new Westin Xi’an is designed by Neri & Hu Design and looks more like a cross between an art gallery and a luxury 5-star hotel. It’s the third Starwoods property in Xi’an, and quite perhaps the most fashionable one too. It’s setting could not be any better as it is placed just a few minutes’ walk away from the 1360 year old Big Wild Goose Pagoda, one of the city’s must see attractions. Transport is easy with only around an hour’s drive from the main Xi’an Xianyang International Airport, which is about 40km away. The reason why I referred to it as an art gallery is because it looks and feels exactly like that. That’s maybe because why the owners have also built a museum, the first of its kind in the world for Westin. The Xi’an Qujiang Museum of Fine Arts is dedicated to showcase the historical significance of the city of Xi’an, and a tribute to the people of the city. So actually, it’s a bit of a double bill for those coming to reside at the Westin Xi’an. Because the property comprises of a 5-star hotel, adjacent museum, and a shopping centre, so therefore you can easily go sightseeing, go for a relaxing massage at the Heavenly Spa by Westin and indulgence yourself with fine cuisine. To really explore and make the most of the hotel it would take, I guess a few days and not just a one-night stopover. The Westin Xi’an has arrived to redefine the mid-priced luxury hotel market that is booming in China these days, the sort normal people can afford. Mmm … they've got the smell right (wood smoke and a hint of designer aftershave that fans of Dior would love). There is more. The adventure commences at the lobby, which itself is a serious work of contemporary art. The enormous colourful display is presented in various neon of red, green, blue, and yellow depending on the time of the day (or night). Then the rooms are to follow. Each one of the 329 tastefully designed guestrooms and suites has the trademark Westin Heavenly bed where you can sleep like there is no tomorrow, encompass soothing tones, and each room features a flat screen LCD television, rainforest shower, extra-large cupboards with stylish sliding doors, and wireless internet. The rooms are well placed inside the sides of a maze like rectangular wall with a large roof that provides natural sunlight. In the middle of the open hall on the ground floor is a large black horse with a large lampshade on his head. This is the area where room guests can explore and rediscover their culinary tastes, and have a meal any time of the day. With three different dining venues to choose from, the Seasonal Tastes is the place to have breakfast or lunch. However, it is not as romantic as the ‘Mai’, a fabulous Japanese restaurant that provides the finest of contemporary cuisine from the land of the rising sun. Their teppanyaki and sashimi stations get booked quickly. So therefore, book in advance to avoid disappointment. Overall it’s the kind of place that can inevitably uplift your senses after a long days walking, and sightseeing, which you will end up doing in Xi’an as this is a touristy city. At which point it may be a good idea to treat yourself or your loved one to a selection of the treatments available at the signature Heavenly Spa by Westin. Unwind, close your eyes, relax, and just forget about the troubles of the day by pampering yourself with some Chinese inspired philosophy. The staff seemed to come across as being very caring and tentative in providing the best service they could. Featuring ten private ‘spa within a spa’ treatment rooms that are replete with a personalised service including a bath and changing areas, as well as the signature Heavenly Spa massage beds and a luxurious infinity tub. It’s worth giving the Rollers sage 90-minute signature treatment at a go. Its best preferred to have the treatment after a long day. The healing properties of the semi-precious stones that are rolled over your back in a connective flowing manner assist in the blood flow and making you feel refreshed. It was so good that it made me go to sleep. As the hotel is located on the edge of the city, and within the Qu Jiang high tech industrial zone, it is well worth noting that there is a huge demand for Meetings, Incentives, Conferencing, and Exhibitions (MICE), and the exact reason why the hotel has over 3,300 meters of space just for that. Wedding, MICE, and corporate functions, you name it they are all in demand. Xi’an’s elite are out to spend. Whatever your desires or reasons, the Westin Xi’an is at least another reason for visiting this part of this ancient city. Forget the old-fashioned old unsophisticated hotel, not even the most luxurious hotel in the city can compete with this. Art Museum of Xi'an Qu Jiang Located within the building compounds of the Westin Xi’an hotel in the ancient Chinese city of Xi’an, the Xian Qu Jiang Art Museum is a magnificent showcasing of over 2,000 Chinese antiques and artefacts.
Open to the public, and the hotel guests, the museum’s exceptional art and antiquities spans over 7,000 square meters and boasts three special exhibition halls. Works on display include 80 mural paintings from over 15 provinces, which depicts China’s history through different dynasties, as well as a loan exhibition from the Nanjing Museum of Ming and Qing Dynasty Porcelain. Other fascinating highlights include the world’s only gold suit of armour, and a highly rare stone Buddha head which measures nearly one meter high and dates to the Northern Qi Dynasty. It’s not as vibrant as one would hope to be. But in saying that this is a new museum and so with time it will hopefully a beehive for budding tourists. It’s something extra to add to your travel itinerary when coming to Xi’an. Last week I went on a short press trip to the city of Xi'an, the capital city of China's Shaanxi Province, which was once known as Amoy and has a rich historical and cultural legacy. With a population of around 8.2 million people, Xi'an is also China's oldest city, having been the capital city for many centuries (including during the Zhou, Qin, Han, Sui, and Tang dynasties). My press trip was to promote tourism and some of the hotels in the city. Instead I ended up being stuck for a day in the middle of Anti-Japanese protests (please read link here, and here). Despite all the chaos that parts of this city (and the rest of the country) has gone through in the past weekend, and despite the incident that I happened to sadly experience, I can say that the greater city of Xi'an is actually safe and open for tourism. When you read history books (such as the Rape of Nanking etc.), then you get a true understanding of why there are these frictions between Japan and China. I am glad to say that Xi'an is a city that has returned to normality. I spoke to many Western tourists in the past few days, many of them were retired pensioners who were travelling the world, and who had come to Xi'an to see the famed Terracotta Warriors. All of them had positive things to say about their visit to China and this beautiful city. I would also like to add that after careful consideration, I have decided that I will not publish the pictures on my blog that I took of the riots because I do not want to remind myself of the troubles, and I do not want people to have a bad feeling or bad image of Xi'an as a city. From my experience and my eyes, these rioters were not representative of the people of China or the people of Xi'an, or even of the students that were marching peacefully on Saturday or Sunday. Instead, these people seemed to seize this opportunity as an excuse to carry out their crimes against innocent people. Protesting peacefully for a cause is one thing, but to create panic, havoc, damage, and deliberately harm innocent people is another thing. These rioters could have been people with all sorts of problems in their lives, and they took this chance to loot and hurt others (in my photo published on the BBC, there is a guy with a stolen ladies purse around his neck. He stole it from the car, which was toppled over right in front of me. In my viewpoint, that is not protesting but straight forward theft). Having spoken to many locals around this touristy city, I found out that violence and protests were very rare in Xi'an. Just like everywhere else in the world you have good people and bad people, and those who have been somehow brainwashed to do wrong things. Going back to times in memorial, the centre of Xi'an (which is sometimes known by it's former name of Chang'an) has always been busy as it was the final frontier of the great Silk road that goes all the way through to Turkey (passing the Central Asian countries). I want to showcase the beauty of this city (that's why I came to Xi'an in the first place, and I got tangled into this mess in the city center!). For a city that used to be known as 'Dusty Xi'an' back around, as close to as 6 years ago, it's amazing how clear the sky was on this visit. The visibility everyday was clear enough to be able to see into the horizon. As a result of banishing polluting factories to the outskirts of the city, brining in clean and green natural-gas public buses and generally making the place neat and tidy, Xiamen was gold medalist in the Nation in Bloom competition in 2002 — beating the city of Seattle, among others. A major part of that pitch was that nobody should walk for more than 15 minutes without encountering a park. One of the city's best parks in the city to visit is Xiamen University's expansive grounds which boast walkways, pagodas, lakes and more! Close to this park is the thousand-year-old hillside Nanputuo Temple, constructed during the Tang Dynasty. It was damaged quite badly during the Cultural Revolution; however, it's Drum and Bell Towners and the Daxiongbao Hall are now in perfect condition after a restoration project. I would highly recommend hiking to the top of the steep steps, past the gold-dubbed cave, wheezing grannies for a spectacular hilltop view of the city. The view can be even more magical at dusk, as the sky gets coloured in a blend of yellow, orange and red on a clear evening. Like most other cities in China, Xi'an has also become more modern (though some years behind the tier 1 cities such as Shanghai and Beijing, but catching up FAST!). European traders here a century ago tried desperately to recreate the atmosphere of home by building grand stone mansions, fully equipped with the furniture and fashionables available in London, Paris, Milan and beyond. The structures remain today, in various states of repair, but it was another far less tangible legacy — appreciative of European classic music — that the traders left behind. Gulangyu — sometimes known as Piano Island — is a creative beehive for musicians and befittingly is a hotbed of musical talent, with its own specialist school, now housed in a special building far removed from the original crumbling mansion, that attracts pupils from afar and wide. Alumni of this school include pianist Yin Cheng Zhong, who now lives in the United States, and Chen Zuo Huang, who has been a guest conductor with renowned overseas orchestras and helped restructure the China National Symphony Orchestra into a sleek, professional unit. Gulangyu is effectively a living museum of architecture, and the total absence of roaring cars, virtually unheard of in China nowadays, enables time for a reflective stroll through the streets, stopping to admire the various styles of architecture and listen to the inevitable music. A popular pastime among the locals (and tourists alike) is to hire a speedboat for a spray-soaked dash around the harbour and Gulangyu islet, within sighting distance of the offshore, Taiwanese-controlled islands of Jinmen. There are mini-cruises, with binoculars available on hire, allowing a closer view of Little Jinmen and Jinmen itself. I got some awesome shots of the famous Qinling Mountains and the Wei He River. The Qinling Mountains geographically separate the north and south of China, and are one of the biggest ranges of mountains in China. Most importantly, I also managed to get a clear photo of the whole of Xi'an city from the sky this morning as I big farewell onto my next destination. I am sure I will be back someday soon. Anyways, here are a few photos that I took between the 14th and 17th of September. I will upload more photos once I have more time. - Navjot Singh Bell Tower and Drum TowerBig Goose PagodaMuslim Quarter and Xi'an Mosque Small Goose PagodaTerracotta Warriors and Horses of Xi'an
As one of the oldest and most well established hotels in the ancient Chinese city of Xi’an, the Sheraton Xi’an Hotel stands out to be located in a perfect location that is neither too far away from the city centre or the city international airport (only around 40 minutes away). In fact the property, with it’s 365 well appointed rooms and suites, is the perfect choice for not just tourists and business persons, but for foreign dignitaries as well because of the security the property offers. It’s also the closest luxury hotel to the city’s Xian Xianyang International Airport. With around a 20-minute brisk walk away from the 600-year-old ancient City Wall, and surrounded by a quiet neighborhood the Sheraton Xi’an Hotel is the perfect place to while away from the hustle & bustle of this busy touristy city. Of course, with it’s quiet location it’s not going to fit everyone’s bill, and it’s not supposed to either. The 22-year old property shines in the glory of being the hotel preferred by many visiting corporations into the city. The princely jewel of the hotel has to be the Club Lounge (not to be confused with the Marco Polo Lounge), which is claimed by the hotel management to be the largest in the city. The best thing I really liked about the Club Lounge was that it does really feel like how a Club Lounge should be- quiet, elegant, and a nice setting for relaxing and spending away the evening with a glass of fine Chardonnay and some nuts. A Club Lounge iss not meant to be a restaurant as some other hotels may treat them as, and perhaps other hotels may learn a few things from the Sheraton Xi’an in this area. It’s so good that even the ‘Happy Hour’ time when some hot and cold dishes are available, is not so busy. The area where the Sheraton Xian excels here is also in providing an excellent choice of beverages, both with a mixture of Western and Chinese brands. It certainly passed my five star quality test. Hungry? Then why not try one of the four eateries in the hotel that offer some of the finest ingredients that the city has to offer. When in a city such as Xi’an, as well as absorbing 1,300 years of history, you may as well also soak in the culinary delights too. Tang Restaurant at The Sheraton Xi'anWith such stunning views of the southern Chinese city of Shenzhen, it almost impossible not to think of how beautiful life can be at over 1,300 feet while sipping a fine glass of Riscal Roble 2008 and tucking into your pumpkin and cheese soup. But then again, this is not your average restaurant, but one that deserves more attention that it gets. Located at the 99th floor of the St Regis Shenzhen hotel, the Elba serves fine Mediterranean cuisine with a view to please even the most gastronomically challenged.
Since the St Regis Shenzhen opened in December 2011, Elba has become a popular hotspot for Shenzhen’s business yuppies, and the increasingly newly found rich who want to do nothing more than show off. The ambiance may not be too lavish; however all of those changes the moment the flavours of the colourful dishes start to dance your tongue. Elba is definitely big, bold and brash, however it did come across that the pedestrian cooking was a letdown, especially for a high end eatery that wants to prove itself among the bustling completion in town. Basically if I was a diner here I would want to be pampered right from the moment of my first spoonful to the last. To be frank Elba is the kind of place only its mother could really love. It's like a late adolescent who's just discovered fashion and luxury lifestyle. It's loud and brash and pleased with itself. Location is fantastic, but the interior quality of the food lacks the glamour that it works so hard to get across. The wine list is strong and has some first-class choices at astoundingly low prices. I also ate some pleasing things from the long menu, which roams from raw bar to hot kitchen to something called "wood stone.” If you are in a rush then opt for the lunch business set meal, which includes a starter, main dish and a dessert. Some of the fine choices for the set lunch menu include battered cod fish, or pumpkin and clam chowder. Service was ‘okay’, but somehow dysfunctional. It took two requests to get them to stop attempting to fill my wine and water glass. Whether the fact that I was dining with the hotel manager made them nervous, I have to have give them the benefit of the doubt on that one. One thing I will say though is that good authentic Italian cuisine is very hard to find in China. However, if you want to taste a bit of Italy before you get there, then try Elba. Hey there may be better Italian restaurants in the whole of China, however for the time being Elba does a superb job in being one of the best in Shenzhen. For a city that is technically only around 35 years old, Shenzhen in south-east China has experienced a rapid economic and cultural change in such a short space of time that most global cities would not be able to enjoy. These days it is a case of every global brand wanting to have their fair share of the piece of land in this tiny city, which borders Hong Kong.
When I arrived in Shenzhen back in 2003, the tallest building in those days was the Diwang building. When it was first built the Diwang building at 384 meters high was a stunning piece of architecture offering the best views in the city and the best office space. It was a sign of sheer prestige for the city and its people. The funny thing is that I have never had the chance to go up the Diwang building simply because I never had the time, and I did not really realise that the city would be so beautiful from up there. So then, to my delight, in September 2011, a building even taller than the Diwang building opened its doors to the public. Standing at 441.8 meters and with 100 floors, the Kingkey 100 building, designed by the architect Sir Terry Farrell, is the tallest building in Shenzhen. While the bottom part of the building houses offices, the top 28 floors from the 73rd to the 100th floor occupy the glorious five-star St Regis Hotel, Shenzhen. It’s quite befitting that the tallest building and hotel in Shenzhen is located right next to the famous Deng Xiao Ping portrait on Shennan Road. Indeed, this was the place where the great man declared his legacy in 1979 that the city should be opened a Special Economic Zone (SEZ), and it’s somewhat a sign of the city’s prosperity. Opened in December 2011 and located right at the epicentre of the most happening place in the city, the centre of the Caiwuwei financial district, the St. Regis Shenzhen offers a lovely blend of stunning views of Shenzhen, superb in-room modern facilities and a heaven for the gastronomic senses. Then there is the unique glamorous touch that makes the St Regis stand out from the rest- the matchless St Regis Butler Service. It’s a signature trademark of the hotel brand that makes every guest feel extra special, and it’s utterly unique to Shenzhen. Trained in the English tradition to provide ever-present, yet unobtrusive round the clock service, the St. Regis Butler sets the stage for an experience that provides a very personalised service, no matter how great or small, at any hour of the day and night. So it may be that you would like to have your cup of hot chocolate before going to sleep, or have your shirt ironed, or you may need assistance with packing up your bags whilst you are busy doing something else. Whatever your needs, you can be reassured that your dedicated St Regis Butler will be there to help you. With its 290 elegantly appointed guest rooms and suites, the St Regis Shenzhen is actually not as enormous as one would imagine it to be. The illusion is that it is located in a tall tower so people assume that it’s a massive property. The demand for a luxury service from the local Chinese is so much that there is even a waiting list in place for the hotel’s highly sought after Afternoon Tea service at the Social restaurant on the 95th floor. That’s also where you’re most likely to find the hotel’s Food & Beverage director, JW Yap, showing off his magic with the champagne pouring ceremony before the dinner service. An interesting yet revolutionising part of this is that hardly any of the people dining for Afternoon Tea are British as one would imagine, but are mostly young Chinese. It’s another symbol of the cultural change that cities such as Shenzhen, and indeed the whole of China are going through. The exceedingly rich are being exposed to the glitz and the glamour, and they have the money to flourish it onto. The St Regis Shenzhen is definitely the place to be at and be seen at. Be prepared to be spoiled right from the moment you check-in. Where else do you need to be at when you are surrounded by creature comforts such as amenities by Remede Laboratoire, 3 complimentary clothes ironed for those staying in the suites, 3D Cinema sound in room, 9 different types of pillow from ‘Pillow Menu’,; and not to mention the exclusive St Regis turndown service that includes chocolates by Ritter. Now if that’s not enough then check out the 3 kinds of breakfast you can eat at either the Social, or in the comfort of your bed in the sky. Then there are the 35 international newspapers available from 21 countries including Greece (Kathimerini), Norway (Dagbladet) and others. The highlight of the exquisitely styled rooms and suites, all of which are ranging in size from 40 to 325 square meters, is the in-room fully customised iPad2 that allows you to control and manage every aspect of your room’s functionalities. The iPad2 comes in handy when you could be sitting in your bed, or whiling away in the Jacuzzi, or just about to order your in-room meal. With its touch screen iPad2 allows you to control things such as the curtains, the levels of the mood lighting, and music of the room, the temperature, the TV channel, and even if you want to call your personal Butler to the room. On top of this, the iPad2 is the interface for the St. Regis ISTV, a personalized set of television channels with important information such as local maps and attractions, express check-out, PC games, or to set up morning calls or housekeeping service. ISTV also provides guests with personal computer functionality. Using a personal laptop or tablet as a keyboard, ISTV converts the television into a large monitor or speakers. ISTV can process software like Word, Excel and Powerpoint, and facilitate printing and faxing through the hotel’s network. It’s simple yet amazingly incredible and can make your stay give the essential ‘Wow!’ factor. I honestly wish they had this hotel here way back in 2004 when I first arrived in Shenzhen. It’s not only the peace and tranquil surroundings but the absolute convenience of staying close to Hong Kong that would appeal to anyone looking for a respite away from the city’s hustle & bustle. It’s very convenient that you can have breakfast in the morning at the hotel, and then perhaps go for a shopping trip across the border to Hong Kong for a day, and then come back to cool down the heels in the evening at the Decanter bar on the 100th floor. The sky-high urban wine bar offers one of Shenzhen's largest selections of wines alongside impressive views and a private Butler (of course, you wouldn't expect less, would you?). This hotel is an incomparable, inspiring place and a home away from home. Sip a glass of fine Riscal Roble 2008, and admire the beauty of the future of the centre of the world from the 100th floor. When it comes to food, you can be reassured that despite Shenzhen’s rather uncanny approach to internationalism and despite there being no Michelin star restaurant in this city, the St Regis Shenzhen does attempt at providing one of the best international dishes in the market. Had they arrived here a few years then it would have been all hunky dory, however with the growing competition from other 5-star eateries, the chefs at this splendid hotel located in an upmarket part of the city are doing everything they can to showcase the best. Try the Elba on the 99th floor offering authentic Mediterranean cuisine with romantic interior décor. Whatever you do, just feel fortunate, and don’t forget to make the most of your time in the sky over Shenzhen- I know I did. With so much local culture to explore in Guangdong province, I decided to take a day’s trip down to Panyu, the oldest part of Guangzhou located in the south part of the metropolis. This town was the original capital city of Guangdong province. I decided to check out the tiny village of Shawan, the part of the city that formed the epicentre of that original capital city. Located around 6 kilometres from the nearest metro station at Shiqiao, Shawan village is neatly hidden away in the outskirts of the city.
Though the village is trying to attract tourists, it still resembles somewhat of a ghost town as there is hardly a whisker in sight on any given day of the week (except of course during the holiday season). On any average hot summer’s day it is normal to walk through the quite narrow lanes of the village and perhaps come across shop keepers lazily taking an afternoon siesta in the shade away from the blazing midday sun. The village does not possess the charm that may be found in more well known ancient preserved villages such as for example Suzhou or Hangzhou. What is amazing is that people live in Shawan in a similar style and in a similar style of environment as they used to do hundreds of years ago. The only difference may be that nowadays people have electricity, proper sanitation, internet, and most important of all, air-conditioning to take respite away from the hot and humid weather. However, other ways of living are similar to traditional style of living like milking the cows by hand, hens, and rabbits freely flocking the grounds, butchers having their meat being sold on ice-carts, and bread rolls, and seeds being dried using the baking sun’s heat. And in between these people’s homes, large former mansions belonging to Emperors and former ancient government ministers have been converted into museums for all to see. It just goes to show the lavish life they had in those days. Try indulging your taste buds into the local delicacy, sweet milk curd (known locally as ‘Shuang Pi Nai’). Every morning cows are milked in the farms nearby. The ridiculously delicious milk is then blended in with sugar, and served either hot or cold. It tastes a bit like lemon curd, or fresh Greek style yogurt, but not as thick in texture. The temptation to have more than one cupful is difficult to resist. Each cupful costs RMB 5 (around GBP 50 pence). Allow a good 1 hour to explore the place. It may feel isolated at first, but I tell you, looks can be deceptive. Shawan has more jewels to offer than the eye meets at first glance. Just make sure you take your camera with you, and be ready to capture the unusual. How I got to Shawan: If you are coming from downtown Guangzhou, then take metro line 3 to Shiqiao station and then take exit C. As you come out of the metro station exit C, turn left in front of Seven 11. After Seven 11, turn right, and you will come across a branch of Pizza Hut. Right in front of Pizza Hut is a bus stop from where you can take bus number 12 straight to Shawan. The cost is RMB 2 one way, and takes around 20 minutes. After you get off the bus stop at Shawan then walk straight ahead for around 30 feet until you come across a large cinema complex, and then turn right. Shawan Ancient Town is straight ahead of you! How much does it cost? Visitors can purchase a RMB55 that allows you entrance to all the 10 preserved mansions and small museums, or there is a separate RMB10 charge for each attraction (i.e. it makes sense to purchase the RMB 55 collective ticket as you get more for low price). Just a few days ago, a Chinese sleeper-bus collided with a methane-laden tanker in the northern city of Yannan in Shaanxi province (BBC report here). Sadly, at least 36 people lost their lives due to this tragic accident. While this particular incident has made it to many international media outlets, there are numerous similar cases that only get published in the local Chinese media and go unreported internationally. Sure, these kind of accidents can happen anywhere in the world, irrespective if it is the developed or the developing world. However, various factors (such as bad infrastructure, poor driving skills, driving rules not followed etc.), have indicated that road accidents may be more apparent in developing countries.
With state figures showing that in 2011 alone, at least 62,000 people perished due to road accidents in China, road safety is the one of the key issues set on the Chinese government's agenda. Because of the high frequency of these accidents, it has become (sadly) a common trait for staff to take mugshots of every passenger on a coach before the journey. This is so that they can identify you in case you have an accident. It may not be a comfortable feeling to know this, however it is a fact that every passenger has to experience before his or her journey. Similarly, for train journeys’, we (passengers) have to provide a copy of our passport number or ID card number so it would be easy to trace and inform our relatives in case of an accident (god forbid!). The bus involved in this crash was a 'sleeper-bus', and considering the design of such buses and the way in which it crashed, it may sadly be assumed that most of the passengers would have found it difficult to escape immediately because of the cramped conditions. So, what's it really like to take a 'sleeper-bus' in China? Cramped is just one of the many words that may be used to describe the conditions in such buses. Sleeper-buses are normal long distance coaches modified to have a maximum of 40 beds installed instead of seats. While it may not be a healthy and comfortable environment to be in for a 12-hour (or more), journey, it is nevertheless much cheaper than taking a train or plane for long distances in China. The bunker style beds are stacked in a very 'stuffy' 3-story set up with a narrow aisle in the middle of the coach interior. Another way to look at it may be to compare it to being on a fully flat bed in first class of a plane, but the only catch is that you'll most likely end up banging your head every time you try to get up (and plus the food and environment may not be so..err...cosy). Most journeys start in the evening at around 6pm, and last for anything between 12-15 hours. I fondly recall taking a sleeper-bus from Shenzhen to Guilin in 2004, a journey of around 13 hours, and costing RMB 85 (approx. equivalent to £5.00 in those days). By contrast, if I had taken a plane then it would have taken only 50 minutes, and total cost would have been around RMB 500 (around £50.00). I took it for the experience to see how the locals travel. On that particular route, the vast majority of the passengers consisted of university students, or local farmers returning to their villages’. Amidst the entire chaotic journey, I can say that I did manage to get a few hours' sleep (except the bumpy roads that we came across). However, even while I was sleeping I recall having this fear that something bad may happen such as someone may take away my belongings, or the bus may overturn (especially when it turned at sharp corners). There is very little or no chance that in case of an accident anyone can safely escape, even if they had the courage to break open the glass windows. So, you can imagine that the unfortunate souls in the accident in Yannan were just stuck there without any hope. Various factors such as the lack of space to sit up properly, the strong smell of food, smelly feet of other passengers (and other unmentionable human smells), and just the feeling of being stuffed in a tin can for 14 hours made the whole experience intolerable. Most coaches don't have toilets installed, so there are regular stops too. On top of that, expect it not to be a quiet journey at all, especially when you have 39 other people trying to keep each other motivated by telling each other stories. In recent years, Chinese coach companies have looked at ways of developing a more user-friendly coach for long distance travel. Designs have included coaches that have more space for passengers, and are safer to be in (and more comfortable). Even so, while China’s economy is booming at a dizzying pace, and with the government looking at ways of improving road safety as a top priority, it is still going to be a massive challenge to reduce the number of road accidents on Chinese roads. The first time I heard about ‘TianZifang’ was last week when my journalist friend asked me in sheer surprise when I was hoping to while away the afternoon. ‘Oh you have never been to Tianzifang?!’, ‘Why?, you are a Laowei, you must go and see it!’. She said. ‘Tian Zi Fang?’ I asked. ‘I’ve heard about Xiantiandi, Moganshan Lu, and Shikumen, but where’s Tianzifang?’. Therefore, I went to explore further. Yes, rather embarrassing as it may be that as a travel writer I have not been here before. However, never too late to explore as they say.
One of Shanghai’s latest tourist destinations was largely unknown until around 2006, and is neatly tucked away in the city’s famed French Concession area. With the 2010 Shanghai Expo site only around a 20 minutes’ walk away, the historical Tianzifang is an area full of significant modern Chinese and Western arts and crafts. The best way to get to this popular tourist attraction is by taking metro line 9 to Dapu Bridge and then walking across the street to Taikang Road (known as Taikang Lu in Chinese). While there are slight similarities to places such as the Shikumen or Xintiandi in terms of architecture, this destination is more for the tourist. You are more than likely to bump into someone with a Canon or Nikon as opposed to a bunch of Shanghai yuppies having business lunch. The right way to describe is that it’s a wonderful carnival of art, design and architecture. However, at the same time its less eccentric and classy than, say, Moganshan Lu. Originally built in the 1930s as a Shikumen residential district, Tianzifang remained very hidden to the outside world, and was not a touristy attraction until about 2006 when it was slated for demolition to make way for redevelopment in time for the 2010 Shanghai Expo. Many Chinese artists, café owners, and boutique French bistros owners settled in the area around 2006, and eventually in time the place has become a beehive for tourists. There is still some reminiscing of how people used to live their life here prior to the area becoming open to the world. The generic architecture consists of the concept of having people work downstairs in their art shops, cafes, and restaurants, and above them (or in the back alleyways) are the original homes of the locals who have remained in the area. Some art galleries belong to famous artists such as Ren Wei Yin, who had to endure being a shoe repair person for 15 years during the Chinese revolution because in those days his art was not recognised in China. You’ll find all kinds of souvenirs here from ancient watches to shirt’s with an improvised image of President Obama embedded into a Mao Zedong image and labelled ‘Oba Mao’, to all kinds of weird bric brac. A complete contrast to the ivory towers of Lujiazhui in Pudong, here you’ll find bicycles, hanging laundry from the windows, and even people washing their utensils outside their homes. If you love contemporary art and design, or just want to inspire yourself by knowing what it may be like to live in the real Shanghai then make sure you have at least half a day free to explore this part of the city. I even managed to discover a cleverly designed handmade lamp made from fork and knife sitting outside someone’s home. |
Get in Touch:LIFE MATTERSHere I share my thoughts
and experiences during my travels, and how some things have affected my life as an expat and world traveller. Travelling is about capturing that moment in life. Every word, view and opinion on this page is that of Navjot Singh - except where indicated. The most recent is at the top. Scroll down to read the archive. Or search using CTRL+F (COMMAND + F) and enter a keyword to search the page. Just some of the stories you never heard before. The NAVJOT-SINGH.COM web blog is separate to this web site....Click blog, which may not be visible in some countries due to local firewall restrictions, so in those cases this weblog may be read. The weblog also includes some of my press trip reports- most of which are not published on the official blog because of copyright issues. The weblog also contains articles that may be associated directly with a PR trip for a country, airline or a hotel. These are PR reviews done in relations with various companies. If you are an investor or a trend watcher then you may find this website useful as investing has a lot to do with personal observations and finding the ideal trend or next big thing. The average human on the street frequently knows far more about the state of the economy than politicians, university professors, subject matter experts, and financial analysts who seldom travel, or if they do so, only from one hotel to another hotel! The pulse and vibrancy of an economy is nowhere more visible than on a country's streets. All photos and words are © Navjot Singh unless stated. Photos taken by others or by agencies are appropriately copyrighted under the respective name. No photo or word/s may be taken without the prior written permission by the author (i.e. Navjot Singh). All Rights Reserved. Archives
February 2024
Categories
All
|