I still fondly recall my stay at the Peninsula Hotel Shanghai earlier this year in March. It gave me the impression that the hotel was a neat blend between the contemporary design and retained 1930s feel of Shanghai’s hey days’ (when it used to be known as the “Pearl of the east”). In contrast to the Peninsula Shanghai, the 525 room Peninsula Beijing has a completely different feel to it altogether. Apart from all the usual signature Peninsula amenities and in-room facilities offered in every Peninsula Hotel around the world, the Beijing Peninsula differs enormously in terms of architecture, ambiance, its classical interior décor and the amount of shopping one can do inside the hotel. It is the only other Peninsula hotel on mainland China (and part of the “Hong Kong and Shanghai Hotels’ Ltd), and is rather more well established as well than its younger and newer counterpart in Shanghai. This magnificent picturesque hotel has been through 4 renovations since its opening in 1989- and 2003 was the most recent one where over US$34 million were spent to upgrade its facilities.
Originally known as the “Peninsula Palace Hotel” until 2003, The Peninsula Beijing has become a renowned landmark since its opening in March 1989. Located in the heart of Beijing’s glamorous Wangfujing area, around 5 minutes walking distance from the bustling Wangfujing Street itself, and around 15 minutes walk from the Wangfujing Metro station, the hotel reflects a careful blend between the innovative touch and the luxury that it stands for. In actual fact, most guests will tell you that with the change of the times, the Peninsula Beijing is fast becoming a hotel that requires itself to constantly provide some sort of innovation its guests. It’s the small things that make the big difference to a guests stay in the 21st Century (and beyond). Such as the luxury of having to use a Fax Machine and the international direct dial (although the Beijing Peninsula does not feature of free International calls by Skype like the Shanghai Peninsula). The whole Peninsula experience starts with a personal pick up from the airport (VIP Pick up also available on request) with one of the Hotel’s signature Rolls-Royces’ or the BMW 7 series automobiles- and the same service is available on checking-out. The driver will take you straight to the plane (for those flying with First Class/Business Class), or to the terminal building. The rooms are slightly smaller in size compared to the other Peninsula Hotels’, but it must be bore in mind that this glorious hotel has been operating since 1989- and in those days it was perhaps the most luxurious hotel operated by a foreign company in the whole of China. This was well before any of the Peninsula’s competitors’ entered the Mainland China market. To this day the tradition still looms in the air. The customer service, the maids dressed in period uniform, the Rolls Royce Service and the general feeling of the hotel that gives a message of “Yes, I am at the luxurious Peninsula” is still the same as it was in 1989. Toiletries, as with all other Peninsula Hotels in China, are provided by “Davi”- including their impossibly luxurious hand cream. One of the key things that impressed me was the polished level of languages spoken by the native Chinese staff except English. These included French, Spanish and even business conversational Italian. Now that is a bit of a rarity in China- you’d be lucky enough if someone speaks good enough English let alone any other language. The Peninsula Beijing Club looks and feels like a gentleman’s club. There is a strict dress code of semi-formal to formal wear with no jeans, shorts or trainers. The view may not be that fantastic, however the service and the environment is calm and soothing. Unlike the kind of “Clubs” that some of the other five star hotels’ offer, the club house at the Peninsula is a real club house. By this I mean that it is just the right place where one can relax and while away their evening in the company of good friends/colleagues and a good wine in hand. Normally such clubs are the nearest thing comparable to Gentleman’s Clubs such as the “Victory Services Club” (London) or the “American Club” (Hong Kong) that are frequented by airline captains’, four-star generals’, actors’ and other VIPs’. Its how a club should be- not with numerous amounts of food (it’s not a restaurant) or with the rest of the hustle and bustle that one gets in a noisy eatery. On my trip I even managed to bump into renowned Chinese actor, Mr. Guo DeGAng (郭德纲), for a nice dinner and chat. The Club can be used by anyone, however is only complimentary for those staying at any one of the Club rooms on three dedicated floors of the hotel (and the 57 Suites’). The focus is mainly for those who are business minded- and the general conception is that everything should be smooth. This is true from everything ranging from private checking-in and checking-out to the breakfast service (guests can have a pre-assigned Breakfast at short notice if they are in a rush). The only thing is that some elements of the service may seem very traditional for those that are used to residing at more modern five-star hotels’- such as the amount of dishes on offer are quite limited. One thing that people must remember is that the Peninsula is all about luxury and class rather than the amount of service. It’s the quality, and not about the quantity as they say. One of the finest innovations of the Peninsula Beijing is the “Academy” that allows guests to enjoy any one of the 10 signature experiences’. There is something for everyone- including Children. Some of the amazing experiences include “Chinese Contemporary Art”, “Kite making with a Kite Master*” and “Chinese Dumpling Making**”. The latter two have to be my favorites. The “Kite making experience” allows people to visit a real Kite Maker in their Hutong courtyard house, and then after the kite is made you take it down to Tiananmen Square to enjoy this traditional activity. The “Chinese Dumpling Making” allows the guest to be given a personal tutorial on the history of the Chinese Dumpling by the Peninsula Chef, and then allows the guests to learn how to make a perfect Dumpling. Highly recommend that you make a reservation two days in advance to avoid disappointment. Whether you want to relax, swim, exercise, shop (over 50 shops in the renowned exclusive Peninsula Arcade) or eat like there is tomorrow at the finest of Beijing’s restaurants’ then the Peninsula has it all. In terms of having a massage or a swim, the Peninsula for sure has a deeply personalized spa experience like no where else in the rest of this part of the capital. Opened in 2008, the 1370 Sqm Peninsula Spa by ESPA forms part of the third-floor health and fitness facility at the Peninsula Beijing with 12 state of the art treatment rooms that include all the relevant treatments to cleanse the skin, relax and soothe aching muscles and preparing the body to become more fresh and energetic. The experience of the Spa doesn’t just stop here as there are a wide variety of treatments for men and women available on request. Both men and women have separate thermal suites that include a steam bath, sauna, lifestyle massage shower and an ice fountain. Don’t be disappointed if you feel that the Peninsula Beijing does not seem to be as contemporary as, say some of the other five-star hotels’, or if the rooms are a bit smaller (except of course in the HUGE Suites)- because it really isn’t meant to be either. The clientele at the Peninsula are different, perhaps more affluent and perhaps not so much of the business type. The vast majority are celebrities, people on holiday or those who just prefer to enjoy life in Beijing at the high end. One of the key features and memorable experiences I would definitely recommend is the impossibly scrumptious food served at the Huang Ting. Whatever you do, and whatever you eat, just make sure you don’t go away without trying the signature Beijing Daiquiri. An amazing combination of banana, vodka, lemon Juice, triple sec, curacao and a quick dash of Mao-Tai; the Beijing Daiquiri will not only blow your mind away, but will perfectly round up your stay to be a memorable one at the Beijing Peninsula. * 2 Hours cost RMB 1250 per person (Prefer Minimum 2 persons) ** 90 Minutes costs RMB 880 per Person Now, when you are in Beijing there are three places one should not even think about leaving without seeing or trying. The first two are the Beijing Great Wall and Tiananmen Square. The third one has to be a famous eatery where you can try some delicious authentic Peking Duck. In a similar fashion a trip to the luxurious Peninsula Hotel in Beijing is not complete without going to the 140-seat Huang Ting Restaurant (it really isn’t) - but that’s if you can find where it is. Rather unusually it’s tucked away in the basement floor of the Peninsula Hotel among some of the finest boutique shops in Beijing selling luxurious branded clothes. Not really the kind of environment one would expect a luxurious restaurant to be in. However, the good thing about this is that it does provide the Guests with a bit more privacy and space to relax and enjoy their meal. The Huang Ting was opened in 2003, rather novel compared to the Peninsula Beijing itself which was opened in 1989. Guests are welcomed to the Huang Ting, which is arguably Beijing’s best Cantonese eatery, with the sight of a huge bamboo bird cage, and a set of Tigers’. It’s perfectly located just around a 15 minute walk from Tiananmen Square, especially for those who are not residing at the hotel and just want to experience the food.
Prior to entering an eatery, every guest has their own stereotypical thoughts and expectations of what they want to hopefully see and eat- and perhaps how to spend their time. The impossibly beautiful “Huang Ting” is no different. After all it’s a five star restaurant situated in a traditional five star hotel right in the heart of the Capital of China- and one would expect a high level of five star service. But what’s different about the Huang Ting? I suppose the remarkable irony of the Huang Ting is that its contemporary design and décor devised by Chhada Siembieda and Associates of Hong Kong is based entirely on the settings of a traditional noble courtyard house - which is fast being a dying breed these days. Soft and slow music of the 8- stringed Zheng can be heard in the background- almost the feeling as if you are in a traditional tea house. Don’t be shocked to see a hint of the past here- grey brick walls taken from the original Hutongs’, slated and aged Pine floors. Another most unusual feature of the restaurant is the splendid pinewood furniture that derives from a large 200-year old mansion in the famous canal town of Suzhou (near Shanghai). There are small bird cages hanging from random places of the ceiling. Fine Mahogany dominates the four VIP Dining rooms (one of which I had the gratification of occupying during my experience). Waitresses dressed in attractive Red Rose colored Qi-piaos’ are on standby to assist you. Customer service is immaculate- the staff are also able to converse in acceptable levels of English. The Huang Ting has Feng Shui elements embedded into its design, with a water feature and waterfall panels inside, and a special “jumping fountain” visible outside the restaurant. I commenced my eight-course gastronomical experience by being introduced to the fabulous drinks list that contained a nice blend of wines (Chinese and Western), cocktails and an assortment of other alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. I opted to go for pure authenticity in terms of the design and name of the drink- the Huang Ting Cocktail. Deep shades of Orange and Yellow blended in nicely with the Pineapple, Lemon and Chinese Red Wine. There was also the Beijing Daiquiri- an amazing combination of Banana, Vodka, lemon Juice, Triple sec, curacao and a quick dash of Mao-tai. The starter could not be much more vibrant than having three different types of flavors’ in one dish. The “Combination of BBQ ell, jellyfish and Spring Roll” (鳗鱼拼海蜇春卷) dish is the perfect way to start the adventure at Huang Ting. The slippery Jellyfish, the slightly chewy BBQ Ell and the ridiculously crispy Spring Roll with its fine Vegetables went well with the Huang Ting Cocktail Drink. With this meal I decided to opt for the “2 Up Shiraz” (South Australia) Red Wine. Not too sweet and not too bland either. In actual fact it went perfectly with the crispy Beijing Duck. I am actually intimidated by the more adventurous of dishes that are sometimes presented in restaurants across China. Mind you, it was my first time to tuck into the next dish that the chef de cuisine came up with- “Hot and Sour Shark’s Fin Soup with Scallops” (鱼翅带子酸辣汤). I love seafood (I really do), but believe it or not I had never tried Shark’s Fin Soup before. Just the thought of seeing a Shark was lurking at the back of my mind while I was sipping the spoonful of this impossibly mouth-watering consommé. I would eat this again, and again because the beauty of this dish was that the Scallops were carefully designed to look like sea shells. The attention to detail and presentation was amazing. Another work of genius by the chef-de-cuisine came upon with the “Wok fried river Prawns with celery and X.O. Sauce” (X.O酱西芹大虾球). It’s not often that you get X.O. Sauce flavored into a Chinese meal (we hear a lot about Soy Sauce though). The most memorable experience of this restaurant has to be the live cooking of the exquisite Peking Duck right in front of you. You are in Beijing, in one of the best restaurants around and it would be a great pity not to try this signature dish. The guests have the pleasure of choosing a roasted Duck prior to it being carefully prepared and served in front of your eyes. Note the white gloves worn by the chef- a sign of how clean and fresh the food should be when served. For one person, 4 “Duck rolls” are prepared – these consist of a rolled Mandarin Pancake that contains generous amounts of the crispy Duck meat blending in well with the spring Onions pressed onto the rather thick Hoisin sauce. Continuing on with the eating experience, I was wondering if I had the stomach to take all of this food. The good thing is that the portions are just fine- not too much and not too less either. Next came the brightly colored “Pan-fried cod fish” (干煎银鳕鱼). This dish projected the true Cantonese flavor that the Huang Ting is renowned for. There was a generous helping of Soy Sauce and a dash of a red pepper going across the Cod Fillet. Just sensational. With a dish like this, it would be wrong not to spend around a few moments just taking in a deep breath with each bite and absorbing the flavors’. Having just had eaten a fully crispy Peking duck, I was wondering if there was any need for any more duck, but let be surprised I was treated to a generous portion of “Diced Beijing duck and asparagus in black pepper sauce” (黑椒露笋炒鸭粒). Not too bad but perhaps a bit more Black pepper than one would like to have- though it is known that in Cantonese food the more black pepper the better it is for the body (keeps the doctor away and so on). Fresh fruit, fish and vegetables are the core elements that make up any culinary experience come alive- even more so for Cantonese food because most of the Cantonese food also contains other snippets of meat. The pure vegetarian “Braised bok-choy (Chinese cabbage) with black mushrooms” (三菇扒小棠菜) was a sheer delight to have, and I was relieved to have it. Not that I am a vegetarian, but for those who are Vegetarian this dish would do you wonders because it is not easy to find such high quality vegetarian dishes in China. The “Bok-Choy” was not too large and just right for the mouth. I say this because in most restaurants the “Bok-Choy” is just too large and difficult for foreigners to bite at- and it looks ridiculously comical (and messy) when a foreigner tries to eat Chinese food. Cantonese food relies heavily on seafood and fried rice noodles (unlike the noodles that are offered in the north of the country), and so to continue this authentic trend, a fabulous presentation of “Xia-Men fried rice noodle with shrimps” (鲜虾厦门炒米粉) was offered. Not as oily as some of the dishes that are offered in some restaurants across the Guangdong region, and especially with the rich flavor of the large Shrimps, this dish was to die for. As with all Chinese meals, the curtain on this experience was drawn with a healthy helping of “Seasonal Fresh Fruits” (合时水果拼盘) - a colorful combination of Dragon Fruit, Pineapple, Watermelon and Kiwi Fruit. The portions were just enough not to make you refuse even if you were full. The overall experience at the Huang Ting portrays excellence in terms of culinary delight, customer service and pure authenticity. Just don’t forget to order that splendid Huang Ting Cocktail- it was so good that I ended up sipping two glasses. The set meal costs 480RMB (Including Tax). Drinks are charged separately. For any newcomer that arrives in any of the big cities in 21st century China, by now it should not be a surprise that these big cities are developing so rapidly that it’s hard to believe what their skyline looked like only a few years ago. The Capital city, Beijing, is no stranger to this remarkable change. Prior to Beijing hosting the Olympics in August 2008, pockets of the city had emerged to host internationally award winning hotels’ and restaurants’. Beijing’s Shangdi district (located in the north-western part of the city), and the Financial Street area located in the south western side of the capital (near Fuxingmen Station) are prime examples of this rapid growth. The latter is even more important because this area of around 2 square kilometres, the Financial Street district has effectively become Beijing’s new CBD with companies such as the likes of Morgan Stanley, China Ping Insurance and many others setting up base there.
However, the beauty of the Financial Street area is that it’s not really popular with business people (well, it is to some extent during the weekdays when the offices are open), but rather it provides an attraction to the local and overseas’ affluent clientele, as well as visitors that prefer luxury and style. The 253-room Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Financial Street also falls under this umbrella. Opened only in October 2006 and located around 22 miles from the main Capital airport, the Ritz-Carlton Financial Street is ideal for business and leisure travellers (not to forget the VVIPs and Celebs’). Mind you, it’s location in the rapidly developing financial area actually does justify its name for all those who care. Bearing in mind that the “Ritz-Carlton Financial Street” is the full name of the hotel and it should not be confused with the “Ritz-Carlton Beijing” hotel which is located near Wangfujing- on the opposite side of the city (Beijing has two Ritz-Carltons’- so mention Financial Street to the taxi drivers’ and avoid getting lost). Located right next to this fine-looking hotel is a large shopping mall which has retail outlets from every luxury brand listed under the sun. From the outside the 19-storey Ritz-Carlton Financial Street hotel does not offer much in terms of architectural genius. But, hey, as they say, it’s the quality of the product that matters- and it must be pointed out that the hotel’s neat blend of contemporary design and the Chinese Feng Shui influences (Note the cute glass statues in the corridors!) wonderfully outnumber the exterior design. It’s also the fancy little things such as the stationary designed to look like Chinese cutlery (pencils that look like chopsticks!). You know, I felt like as if I had fallen in love with the Bvlgari bath amenities and not just the food in the club lounge. The hotel derives its energy from traditional Chinese elements in the Capital- such as the Forbidden City and the Summer Palace. Therefore the hotel’s interior design has been heavily energise and invigorate its guests. With this in mind, its safe to conclude that the Ritz-Carlton Financial Street has become an embodiment of Feng Shui. The first thing that strikes any new visitor to the Ritz-Carlton Financial Street is the personal touch to the customer service offered by this splendid hotel. For those travelling to the airport (Nanyuan or the Capital Airport), the Ritz-Carlton Financial Street provides an airport pick up for guests’ that require it. The hotel attendant will meet you at the gate of the plane and escort you to the waiting chauffeur driven car, and whisk you straight to your room- no need to check in. This splendid service is offered to guests residing in the Executive Club Room and in the suites. It was a good thing that I took the chauffeur driven service because I had forgotten to bring my overcoat to a miserably cold Beijing from a rather warm Guangzhou. The charming reception I received upon exiting the car and entering the hotel warm enough to fade away the chilly weather outside. You really do feel that you are being looked after- and that’s what makes the Ritz-Carlton a great hotel brand. A lovely touch to the stay for any guest is a signature Chocolate turndown amenity- comprising of a traditional Chinese coin and a gold ingot given for the evening before retiring- meant to bring continued prosperity and happiness (though that can comprise of dreams too). Guests also have the comfort of using the complimentary shuttle service within the Financial Street area (a radius of 2 km) which may be considered a necessity because of the slight isolated location of the hotel in relation to the metro station, and the other buildings within the immediate vicinity of the premises. One thing people have to realise is that everything is big in China, and this includes the buildings and the roads- so walking from the hotel to the Metro station for example can take around 20 minutes. For near enough attractions such as Tiananmen Square or Xidan, I would allow around half an hour if you walk briskly. Though on a cold winter’s day in Beijing, it’s wise to take a taxi. One of the key features of the Ritz-Carlton Financial Street has to be food offered to the guests- not just in the three top quality restaurants but in the Club lounge as well. Credit has to go to the veteran award winning Executive Chef, Monsieur Cyril Arrouard, who is responsible for the fabulous Greenfish, the all-day dining restaurant, Cepe, the Award winning 70-seat Italian Restaurant (can you resist a choice of over 2000 Italian Wines?) and the adorable Chinese restaurant, Qi offering a deep fusion of Sichuan, Beijing and Cantonese cuisine. Hats off to this master of the kitchen for presenting a unique style and blend of gastronomical fanfare all of these eateries, but more so at the Club where one can find 5 different types of eating experiences provided daily. What they say is true that breakfast is the best meal of the day and at the Ritz-Carlton Financial Street you can eat breakfast like there is no tomorrow (don’t leave without eating the Omelette and Fried Eggs made by Chef Polo Liang!). So, it’s not really a club as such but rather another blend of a restaurant and a club. My definition of a club is one where one can relax and take a wine in the evening with some nuts- and some good company. When you arrive back into your hotel room on a cold Beijing winter’s day nothing beats the feeling of treating yourself to a swim in the heated indoor swimming pool (while watching a silent black and white movie being played in the large screen!), or take a dip in the lovely Jacuzzi, steam or even the sauna room to thaw down those cool heals. The Gym and the pool facilities are all complimentary for all guests residing at the hotel- it’s another lovely gesture by the Ritz-Carlton to say thank you to the guests. An aromatic experience awaits those who wish to have a relaxing massage treatment by one of the experienced staff. One thing that is easily noticeable is that the rooms are spacious- quite possibly the most spacious around for the money’s worth with a certain air of elegance and a cosy atmosphere (especially in the cold Beijing Winter). There is something for everyone, from leisure and business travellers to even families. Business travellers have the ease of using internet in their room, easy access to 24 hour in-room dining and loads of TV channels to kill your time should you wish to do so. The only downside I found is the rather gloomy Beijing weather that can somewhat ruins an otherwise wonderful view (if it is clear that is). The Ritz-Carlton Financial Street is no stranger to reviews- having been voted best Hotel by Conde Nast Traveller in 2009 (Gold Listed). But don’t get me wrong, whatever your plans are, and then the Ritz-Carlton Financial Street is the perfect place to relax and while away your time during your stay in the capital city of China. You can’t ask for anything more (really). Executive Club Room from 5000RMB (Approx. 750USD|) Deluxe Room from 4500RMB (Approx 670USD) For around 30 minutes in the late afternoon of the 16th of November 2009, airspace around China's capital city, Beijing, was closed off to general civilian traffic. Beijing Capital Airport itself came to a standstill for around 20 of those minutes- there were no take-offs or landings EXCEPT for the EIGHT- I say again- EIGHT aircraft belonging to the entourage of the President of the United States of America who landed one after another on Runway 36R. President Obama's plane, Air Force One (a special Boeing 747-200) was the 3rd aircraft to land on Runway 36R. The aircraft vacated left on taxiway 'Whiskey 5', and then 'Mike 6', before turning around on taxiway 'Zulu 3' towards the VIP parking bays (stands 710 to 714). The VIP terminal and parking area for aircraft is quite a distance away from the main passenger terminals, and even media are not allowed to go without extra special permission. I took these photos from around 2 miles away (from Terminal 3!), and it'll probably be the closest I'll ever get to Air Force One. While the aircraft are on the ground, they are manned by hundreds of staff from the Chinese and American national security guard 24 HOURS a day. The President's Air Force One parked neatly in between the two Air Force Two aircraft. President Obama had come over from Shanghai, where yesterday (Monday the 16th), he greeted a group of about 500 Chinese students at the Museum of Science and Technology. His trip to Beijing was to boost further the relationship with China, and to have dinner with President Hu Jintao. Both of the Presidents met in private off Tiananmen Square here on a freezing Tuesday morning to discuss issues like trade, climate change and further boosting positive relationships, in a session that signalled the central role of China on the world stage. Beijing was in a lockdown for most of the day. President Barack Obama also toured the Forbidden City in Beijing. During my travels in China, the one thing I really enjoyed turning a necessity of life into a hobby was the food. It goes without saying that Breakfast is one of the best meals of the day (the other is, of course, Dinner). I must admit that when I first arrived in China in 2003, I dreaded the thought of even slurping on a bowl of rice noodles mixed with bits of “meat” (usually Pork chops; but in China some people cannot translate the meat type into English, so they just say “meat”), first thing in the morning. Instead I wanted my Corn Flakes with delicious cold milk, strawberry muffins and a nice cup of Tetley tea! Yes, I was spoilt on eating a standard western breakfast all my life! Plus, as a travel writer I should have jumped at the opportunity to become a bit more adventurous and expand my gastronomical interests! I still remember the huge disappointment of being forced to eat Chinese breakfast by my friend. “I can get some cake and Nestle Milk from Seven 11!” I said. “No” was the immediate answer from my Guangzhou friend;” You must try Chinese breakfast, I am sure you will like it” So, the first time my friend gave me a Chinese breakfast, my immediate reaction was “What is this?! Hot and spicy soup for breakfast?!”; I asked in hesitation. That comment alone seemed to bring out the giggles on my Guangzhou friends’ faces. But as the days and weeks passed, I had actually gotten used to eating a traditional Chinese breakfast…no complaints whatsoever! It got to me so much that I actually used to look forward to waking up the next day and eating a delicious Chinese breakfast. It was my meal of the day. Why? Because every bite, every slurp is healthy, delicious, and just a sheer delight! I loved it, and still do. I even persuaded my parents to try Soybean milk, so much so that every time I came back to the U.K. I used to bring along bags of powdered Soya Milk. In China, breakfast means so much more than just your average cup of tea. It's all about socialising- meeting people while soaking up the sun and catching up with the local gossip. Although western cereal companies haven't drummed it up yet in China, breakfast in China is still very much Chinese, and has proven time and time again to be the most important meal of the day. On every Chinese street, side alleyway, school canteen and office canteen; you are bound to come across five breakfast dishes renowned throughout the country for their taste, smell and unique attractiveness to foodies everywhere. Although Chinese breakfasts differ greatly between regions, however these five dishes are essential to any breakfast meal irrespective of your location in China. The dishes are: Large white bun (Man-Tou: 饅頭), Deep-fried fluffy dough sticks (You-Tiao: 油條), Glutinous rice balls- sweet or spicy (Tang-Yuan: 湯圓), Large sesame bread (Da-Bing: 芝麻大餅); and Fresh Soybean Milk (Dou-Jiang: 豆漿). The Five dishes, sometimes referred to as just four when not taking the Man-Tou into consideration, are almost like a fashion icon of breakfast meal. Basically, it may be said that no Chinese breakfast is complete without these. Although sadly with the emergence of MacDonald’s and KFC in most Chinese cities many young kids are opting out of eating healthy Chinese breakfasts - even to the extent that these “Little Emperors’/Empresses’” will argue with their parents/grandparents to eat the last remaining Hamburger, or drink a Strawberry Milkshake first thing before school begins (I have seen this with my own eyes many times, and its not nice). Making of a perfect Chinese Breakfast
Now, I am more than sure that the Taiwanese-born Chinese chef, Ching-He Huang, would have a much better way to describe this, but this is my version, and the way I was taught to eat Chinese breakfast! One dish which I have left out of the list is the Congee (稀饭), which is similar to the western Rice porridge. Interestingly enough, the word Congee actually derives from South India from the Tamil word “Kanji”. The beauty of a bowl of Congee is that you can mix it with whatever you like depending on your taste buds and preference. You can make it sweet or spicy. Everyone has their different way of eating a bowl of Congee. Let’s begin with the large sesame bread, (Da-Bing: 芝麻大餅), which comes in three types: Tasteless (boring and simple), Sweet (preferred by many) and salty (usually sprinkled with spices and sesame). The art of cooking this bread is to simply mix the fermented dough with some butter (Margarine or, Sesame Oil and Sunflower Oil will also do) and when you are happy with the shape of the bread, stick it onto the oven (usually a clay fireplace is used by professional chefs), and bake it into savoury bread. The Man-Tou (饅頭) can be classed as being one of the Da-Bing, however usually it can just be bought on its own. One portion normally consists of three small or large white buns- resembling a large marshmallow. The Man-Tou is boring, tasteless and quite hard to eat- imagine biting into a hardened cake and you’ll get the idea! Usually people eat a Man-Tou with a flavoured dish (salty or spicy). The Tang-Yuan (湯圓) consists of sweet or salt flavoured steamed coarse glutinous rice turned into balls the size of Beetroot. They contain a stuffing of deep-fried downy dough sticks; spicy pickles, dried meat for salted ones; and sesame seeds or white sugar for the sweet ones. The sweeter ones are also dipped into syrup- alas this can be too sugary for some people! The Dou-Jiang (豆漿) is best drank fresh- when I mean fresh I mean that the Soya beans that are used to make the drink have been crushed that very day and mixed with hot water and sugar (if preferred) using a blender. For some people in China it is routine to get up early in the morning and make fresh Dou-Jiang to take to work or to give to their children to take to school/college. The Dou-Jiang you get in the shops and the supermarket (even with powdered Soybean) is not quite as healthy and delicious as the fresh one. The fresh Dou-Jiang is viscous and has a strong aroma of soybeans (just like fresh coffee!). Some shops such as the Circle K-Shop make it fresh as you wait. I have tried making fresh You-Tiao (油條) a couple of times (I managed somehow). Now some people may have different ways to cook this, but I was taught to neatly blend the fermented dough with some vegetable oil, twist it into long stripes so that it looks like a foot long screw (that’s the best way to describe the spiral shaped bread!), fry it until it turns golden, soft and crispy. Most people eat their breakfast on- the- go (i.e. in the bus, train or car on the way to work). Its inexpensive (you can get fresh hot Dou-Jiang and You-Tiao for around 5RMB in most shops), healthy and delicious! Oh and, of course, I am talking about eating Chinese Breakfast in China...because Chinese food only tastes good IN China, not in USA, UK etc. When I used to live in Beijing, without a doubt my favorite bar was "Propaganda" located just behind the WuDaoKou railway station (Next to Subway Sandwiches- you cannot miss it). There are a handful of authentic Korean and Japanese bars and restaurants in this area. Wu Dao Kou has a significant number of Korean and Japanese expats, as well as foreign students because of its proximity to Tsinghua and Beijing Universities.
Its just one of those amazing places- the ambiance is one that has a typical feel of ancient China to it, both with the background classical instrumental music of the stringed "Zheng", and the pre-war style decorated atmosphere- Propaganda is just one of those places where you can while away the time with a cold Chinese beer and snacks. The beauty of it is that you can sit in the relaxed atmosphere inside, and watch (if you prefer "People watching"!) life just go by across the window. This part of WuDaoKou reminded me a little bit of some areas of New Delhi. The only difference being that in WuDaoKou you had everything that you may see in New Delhi except there were no cows or donkeys crossing the railway line! Xiangshan Gongyuán (meaning Fragrant Hills Park) is located about 30 km to the northeast of Beijing’s centre. Less frequently visited by foreign tourists, Xiangshan is a beautiful park with at least five pathways leading to its peak (approx 550m), from where, on a clear day, you can get a breathtaking view of Beijing. It takes about two hours to walk up to the peak, and along the way are many temples, lakes and pagodas that have historical significance.
The park was built in the Jin Dynasty (1186). The park is open all year around but the best time to visit it is in autumn, when all the leaves turn red/orange colour and it will just leave you mesmerized. Beijing Zhíwùyuán (Beijing Botanical Gardens), are located next to the foot of Xiangshan. It's a world away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre, and would be ideal for anyone who wants to while away their time in beautiful surroundings, including the greenhouse and a special rose garden that contains at least five types of rose flower. Quite romantic too! After spending the day at Xiangshan Gongyuán and Beijing Zhíwùyuán, it would provide a nice ending to the day if you visited the town of Wu Dao Kou - an area near the Tsinghua and Beijing Universities, popular with tourists, foreign students and expats alike. There are a myriad of restaurants of all different types of cuisines (including Indian, Italian and Mexican). There are also some nice Japanese and Korean restaurants where you can drink authentic Japanese or Korean beer over a nice meal. I would recommend that you set aside a whole day to explore both Xiangshan Gongyuán and Beijing Zhíwùyuán (including travelling to/from the city centre, which takes about 30 minutes by taxi, costs approx 50 RMB from Beijing city centre). It takes an hour by the many buses that run between the city centre and Xiangshan, if you are adventurous, but costs only 6RMB one way. Wu Dao Kou is located within 30 minutes of the city centre, and has a metro station (on line 13 from Xizhimen) and is easy to get from the botanical gardens by taxi (about 20 minutes and costs approx 30-40RMB). All taxi drivers will understand you when you mention the names of the places, as they are written above. On the afternoon of Friday the 23rd of February 2002 (it was also my sisters birthday), I left Loughborough for Heathrow giving myself of what I thought would be ample time, in the hope that I would be able to join my parents and sister for a short dinner at the airport terminal before leaving on the 13 hour evening flight with British Airways to Hong Kong. It just so happened that I arrived late (as always I do for my flights!), had no time to think about any long good-byes let alone a dinner; and ended up running for the departure gate (as always). Its a bad habit of mine, running at airports to catch my flight at the last minute, irrespective if I am on a business or pleasure trip...however, remarkably I have never missed a flight (YET). Perhaps the greatest trip of my life so far because I had done so much preparation to understand the culture, the language (although I could not even say "Hello" in Chinese) and the food...but I am not exaggerating. In actual fact the whole week seemed like a long dream because everything happened so quickly. I completed my final exam in the morning in the (annoyingly) wet and windy Loughborough; and 24 hours later I was on a night cruise on the Pearl River in the middle of Guangzhou, and it was like, I have to make the most of this trip because I am only here for seven days. When you are so far away for such a short time, not knowing if you will ever go back to the place again in the future, then there should be a second wasted. So effectively everyday seemed like a great dream because I saw so many things in such a small amount of time. It was amazing. First impressions of China? China is a very beautiful country, one which has so much to offer but does not normally get the chance to show off its true inner self to the outside world- what do I mean by this? Well, there are those who question if it is still a friend or foe, there are also lots of biased points against (and some, of course, for) China’s policies. Media can be a wrong source for digesting a destination’s good and bad points because not all media is full of positive points. For example, the coverage of the Beijing Olympics (as an example), I believe was not covered in a well balanced way. I use factual data to take wherever I go (like for example from the UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office Website). Of course, one does not expect a simple and smooth approach to life from a country which is still considered by some hard-line economists as a sleeping dragon that is too ambitious...the obvious answer to this statement would be that even Rome was not built in one day. It goes without saying that the cultural differences do not hit you when you land in Hong Kong (as most of its’ colonial British feel is somewhat fading away at a slow pace- for many it’s still a home away from home). There used to be a saying among the English, “If you cannot make it in London, then go to Hong Kong”, however, even though Hong Kong has a “International” feel to it, that statement would no longer stand as the former colony is now, of course, part of China. Nevertheless, the real culture shock would hit anyone once they cross the border into the mainland. Shenzhen is the city that borders Hong Kong and at that time had only 2 border crossing, one at Huanggang and the other at LoWu. From Hong Kong, once I crossed the border I took the Guang-Shen train straight to the capital of Guangdong Province, Guangzhou. If I just say that “China is amazing and full of so many surprises that one cannot just sum up the whole picture in one go”, that would be a common statement these days because so many people have experienced the country, but then in 2002, for me, those were the first words that came out of my mouth. China has of course a lot of similarities with its neighbours (namely Vietnam, Singapore, Thailand, India etc), and like any Asian country which is moving from the developing stage into a newly industrialised stage, it has the good points, the bad points and the unmentionable ones- and that’s not too difficult to observe. A short ride on one of the many local buses will open your eyes immediately; you may be travelling in a very affluent area at one point, and then suddenly you may come across a highly deprived neighbourhood. An extreme example as it may seem, but just imagine you are driving through the suburbs of a busy western city like London one minute and then suddenly you are travelling through the shanty towns of, say an economically deprived rural village, and a minute later you are suddenly back into the affluent area (vice-versa). There may be many places in the world where such contrasts exist, but to see it in the flash and blood is a unique experience. Watching something on the television or reading about it on the internet is not quite the same as experiencing it in real life. Then there are also the minor but important downsides from living in the world’s fastest growing economy: China is also a VERY noisy country, especially in the big cities (Beijing, Guangzhou and Shanghai), for example it is considered normal to use the drill or do heavy construction at 2am in the morning or even all night! If you are in London and you have noisy neighbours, I bet nothing is more annoying than having a drill go off almost all night long. China is also the world's largest consumer of alcohol so it is no surprise that if your neighbours (irrespective if it is a hotel or home) are heavy drinkers, then they will sure keep you awake all night with loud shouting and arguing over Mah-jong or any card games which they be playing. It may be quite and then suddenly you hear a loud “Arrrgggg” (of course, indicating that someone has won the Mah-Jong equivalent of the national lottery!). China is also the worlds largest market for tobacco, therefore it is no surprise that you will be exposed to smoke everywhere because people smoke in Internet cafes, restaurants, cafes, buses...and if you don't smoke (like myself) then you are going to find it just that little bit challenging! If you are in the workplace (corporate culture defines a very different meaning in China as compared to say a more "International" environment such as London, Hong Kong), then you will be exposed to things such as the "normality" of answering you mobile phone in the middle of a corporate meeting/presentation and even a formal Interview! What about the culture, the people and those Famous Chinese Restaurants? While it is quite difficult for a lone western tourist to get around and speak English with the locals, the people are very friendly and assisting. Over in the border in Hong Kong it is more of a relaxed approach towards foreigners because of the reason that Hong Kong is multicultural (and maybe because there are too many people), however that is not the case in the mainland. You do get a lot of respect and VIP treatment as a foreigner in China. To some extent it's an advantage to be a foreigner in the mainland because you get treated in a much better way. I mean as an example I remember popping into a local sweet shop (nothing more different then a newsagent in the UK), and as soon as they saw me entering the shop, they were so eager (not pushy or anything) to lend a hand or get me to buy anything. Now I can imagine that kind of hospitality would seldom be seen towards a tourist in the UK- of course there are good places and bad places everywhere. That’s just one simple example, and also another one is that people are most willing to learn English. The Chinese food you get in your local takeaways’ in the UK is nothing compared to what you get over there in China, of course that’s the same with all other foreign foods I hear you say, but the experience is totally different. You simply have to taste it to believe it. The most wonderful thing about seafood in Chinese restaurants is that it’s FRESH and you can choose what to eat straight from the fish tanks! Food, especially when it comes to eating out at Dinner time, is a very important part of the Chinese lifestyle- and even more "fashionable" in Guangzhou because of the variety of seafood available here. Restaurants in general within the UK are nothing compared to what you will see in Guangzhou or for that matter the whole of China, it brings out a whole new meaning to eating out. The competition can be so fierce in some cases that some of the best seafood restaurants in Guangzhou are similar in size to four story buildings, which usually tend to have their own Karaoke Bars (a must to try even if you do not speak the language and a popular pastime of the locals). Chinese tea...and did I hear someone say night zoo? One of the highlights of my trip was going to see a zoo at night (yes.. a night zoo). A unique experience which is seldom seen in the west..with all sorts of weird and wonderful creatures. Not only a zoo but mix that with a night circus, a laser disco show, and a whole load of water acrobats show which consisted of the Chinese water sports Olympic team...so it was more like a huge funfair but at nighttime..quite impressive actually. Sounds too good to believe. Moving on from night zoos...lets talk about something which is a bit more of a common thing in China...Tea! Apart from India and Sri Lanka, China is the world largest exporter of the stuff...and its pretty much quite hard to avoid...leaving China without trying at least 4 or 5 different types of tea would be a comparable to leaving Scotland without trying whiskey. If its your first time drinking Chinese tea, you would be immensely surprised to know that it has no taste just sweet smell, nevertheless after a week of trying the stuff- day in day out, it felt soo good that I got put off drinking English tea altogether! This one week’s trip was my first trip to China and just about when I thought that maybe this would be also my last time to go there, I was fortunate enough to have been offered a contract position as a Graduate Sales Engineer with Philips Semiconductors in Shenzhen, China. This was indeed an exciting opportunity, so much for my fate that I have been in China ever since and never looked back. It was just coming towards the end of September 2004 and I had been in China for just over a month. The Chinese Mid-autumn festival (Moon Cake Festival) was approaching and all of my colleagues were going on vacation during that week. I had so many choices ranging from Thailand, India, Singapore and cities within China. Nevertheless in the end I chose to visit the capital city, Beijing. This was my first trip to a Chinese city outside of Guangzhou and I couldn’t wait to get going. Booking flights and accommodation was bit of an experience for me for a number of reasons; firstly I could not speak Chinese so I could not join a tour and secondly most places were fully booked because of the peak holiday season…I also felt a bit guilty that I had always relied upon friends and colleagues to translate for me and that’s when I also started making a serious effort at learning Mandarin. In the end I decided that I was going with a tour group however I was only to stay at the same hotel as them, everything else I decided to do it myself as I am a fond tourist and quite an adventurer anyways. I remember that even though it was the first week of October, the air in Guangzhou was still quite warm and humid on the morning of my departure date. Hurrying to the airport in a rush I finally managed to find my tourist group, who, like most tour groups in China, were carrying bright saffron coloured triangular flags. After the three hour morning flight on a China Southern Airlines Boeing 757-200 aircraft, I finally arrived at Beijing Capital Airport where the temperature was almost freezing and the air was dry with little humidity, which was much fresher than the highly humid and sticky Guangzhou that I had left nearly 4 hours behind me in the south- suddenly it seemed as if I had come to a different country! However, the truth was that for the next five days every experience, every sound and every smell and every taste would echo loudly in my ear that I’ve arrived somewhere magical, somewhere special…and even the cold temperatures didn’t deter me from enjoy moment of it. This is the beauty of being in China I suppose that because it’s such a massive country that you are bound to come across not just different cultures however different climates as well considering if you travel from east to west or from north to south; and vice versa. Of course as a first time visitor to a country or a city so far away, like most tourists, I found Beijing to be a great place to be in, and I wished I could stay there forever...rather see it with my eyes than keep it in my heart I’d say. Whenever I’m in Beijing I feel like I am in the real ancient China because you are always surrounded by a bit of history which ever street or building you are in, and amazingly unlike the rest of China, even though Beijing is becoming more modernized, nevertheless it still treasures a rich past; one which is to be proud of. The people are nice, the food is scrumptious and the sights are truly more than just breathtaking…from my personal experience no visit to China is complete without paying a visit to this ancient seat of power and tradition! Before arriving here my knowledge of this splendid city was quite poor, indeed I had heard and seen the Great Wall of China and TiananmenSquare on various media coverage in the UK and I suppose this made me want to discover those places of interest even more than before. I had five days and four nights to explore the place where thousands of years of history were waiting to be absorbed. After checking into the splendid Renaissance Beijing Hotel in the Yanshan area (Chaoyang District), I headed off with the tour group to Beihai Park for a brief one hour visit before attending dinner at the world famous Quan Ju De Roast Duck (Beijing Duck) Restaurant on 32 Qianmen St (of course not only the oldest restaurant which has been visited by worldwide diplomats and dignitaries, however also very special because of the unique taste of the Beijing Duck that it has); more often than not it’s renowned to be the mother of all Duck restaurants in China! With this in mind it wasn’t at all surprising to observe that it was busy indeed; luck was on my side when the waitress, dressed in an elegant Chinese Traditional costume (Qí Páo, 旗袍), lead us to our reserved room. The chef brought the freshly roasted duck and served it in front of us…and I must say there is nothing quite like it! That crispy taste mixed with bamboo shoots and soy sauce is a sheer luxury and the art of real Chinese cuisine. After the scrumptious meal we gently strolled across to the fascinating TiananmenSquare, to witness the largest square in the world. For me it was like a dream come true, I had seen it on television many times but I never imagined it would be as big as it is. The famous portrait of the great Chairman Mao still looks on from the front gate of the Forbidden City. It was an amazing moment; just standing in the middle of the square makes you feel and think that this is something really special. Be it day or night, it’s probably not only the largest but also one of the most beautiful and romantic squares in the world. From day two onwards I was going to travel on my own without the tour party. I had an early breakfast, naturally Chinese, with fresh warm Soybean milk (Dòu jiāng, 豆浆), a white bun made with Cow’s milk along with a sweet egg yolk mixture inside it (奶黄包, Nǎi Huáng Bāo) and a long bread stick with butter (Yóu tiáo,油条). I had pre-arranged to meet one of my Chinese friends who had been kind enough to accompany me to the Forbidden City where 24 Chinese emperors ruled China for over 600 years. Being in the forbidden city makes you feel as you have step back in time, the remarkable feeling is that I was walking on the same piece of ground that those emperors had been walking on…of course some parts are still the same and some have been renovated. We strolled through the main gates and into TiananmenSquare itself. During the day time it is quite beautiful. I felt lucky to have met Chairman Mao in his Mausoleum; however, we did not talk much (!). I also got the chance to observe the stunning Arts Museum in the square. The afternoon was spent shopping at the long Wangfujing Dajie for souvenirs before departing to a Beijing bazaar to do window shopping as well have dinner in one of the many local eateries! Day three: I was going to spend time at the Great Wall (Badaling) in the morning and then the Ming Tombs in the afternoon. The cost of the transportation and tour guide (Chinese Speaking) for the whole day was only 50RMB, this included traveling from Qianmen Gate in the centre of Beijing to Badaling Great Wall, about 2 hours drive in the north of the capital; then to the Ming Tombs, visiting a Beijing Duck factory and a handicraft factory on the way from Great wall to the Ming Tombs and finally visiting a traditional Chinese herbal medicine clinic/museum on the way back to the city centre in the evening. After weeks of planning I finally arrived at the Great Wall of China. Snaking its way through the lush green mountain tops, it was just like a dream come true for me to even step foot on this speculate of the humankind. Just looking at it makes you wonder how much hard work must have gone into constructing such a marvel. No matter how differently I want to describe the Great Wall before the millions who have before me, I cannot think of any other words except that it simply is a “Magical place”. Two hours was not enough to absorb the exquisiteness of the place. We made our way to one of the 13 grand Ming Tombs and on the way paid a visit to a Duck factory, where on one side of the factory you see the alive ducks, while on the other side of the factory you see the roasted ones…quite attention-grabbing indeed…each prepared to sheer perfection. Here you can get your hands on all things to do with a Beijing Duck; everything ranging from duck meat sweets (!) to preserved duck food and soups…ironically the only thing you cannot purchase is an alive duck itself! Then we arrived at the Ming Tombs themselves. Situated here are the tombs of 13 of the 16 Ming Dynasty emperors. Dragon Hill lies to the east and Crouching Tiger Hill to the west. The first emperor to be buried here was Yongle who died in 1424. His tomb, Chang Ling, and that of Emperor Zhu Yijun, Ding Ling, who died in 1620, are the only two opened to visitors today. One of the more impressive sights at the Ming Tombs is the Sacred Way. The Sacred Way runs for about a kilometre and is flanked on both sides by carvings of human and animal figures. There are 12 large stone human figures and 24 of animals, all carved from single blocks of granite in 1435 during the 10th year of the reign of Emperor Xuan De. I spent the evening enjoying the renowned Peking Hot Pot dinner in the city centre. Day four: I went to the Temple of Heaven in the morning, while the rest of the day was spent looking at the Summer Palace (and you need more than half a day for this!). Words are not enough to describe the exquisiteness and peaceful ambiance of this nature’s gift. Vogue Greece happened to be carrying out a photo shoot in front of the main Lake, much to the unwanted attention from the large crowd which had gathered as the word quickly spread around. As the evening drew closer I made my way towards a park in the middle of the city centre where there was to be a spectacular fireworks display along with a musical Peking Opera show in the middle of the lake in celebration of the Mid Autumn Festival. This park also accommodates a small zoo at the park with a small number of monkeys and Peacocks as well as other smaller animals, all of whom you can touch without worrying. The opera show was nice with the brightly lit and colourful boat making its way slowly around the lake while the people dressed in traditional costumes told folk Chinese stories through Peking opera. A pleasant ending to a long day. Day 5: The concluding day of my short trip had arrived quicker than I could say “TiananmenSquare”. I had a late evening flight back to Guangzhou; so subsequently I spent the morning going to Beihai Park again, this time to enjoy a peaceful walk and taking a few last photos. The afternoon was spent walking around the Hutongs that are within the main area around Wangfujing Dajie. In these walled hutongs you'll find individual residences and courtyards where thousands of Beijingers still live, many astonishingly without modern conveniences of which we take granted for in our lives, such as a fridge, television, an electric cooker or even hot water. Many have opted to move into the more modern apartment buildings, but many still prefer the community style living of the hutong. Like many other Asian countries (India, Thailand etc) there are quite a lot of Rickshaws (3 wheeled cycles powered by a human) and I could not resist but taking a small ride around town. I took the last flight of the day with China Southern Airlines, this time with a smaller Airbus A318 aircraft which gently flared its way towards a warm and humid Guangzhou at midnight. On the taxi back to my home from the airport, my mind was still fresh with the sights and smells of the past five days and again I had the feeling that I just experienced a long dream, where I ventured in another country and then the reality hit that maybe I may never get the chance to go back again. However to my delight I surprised myself, after this trip I have had the chance to go to Beijing many more times. On business trip, I have been lucky to go to Beijing more than five times, and after that I have also had the chance to live in the city for over a year (in the “Shangdi” and “Qi Er Xi” area). It’s a city which does not bore me at all. Every time I go to Beijing, it seems to get more attractive! It was my first trip to Beijing way back during the Mid-Autumn festival (widely known as the "Moon Cake Festival") in the first week of October 2002; and I was extremely excited at the prospects of actually going to experience the sights and smells of the city at first hand. I had long awaited for this moment and finally that thought was to become reality. Prior to this trip, I had two solid images of Beijing in my mind, the first one was of the Great Wall of China- the image which I suppose most foreigners would have when China is mentioned to them; and the second one was of Tiananmen Square. However that image of Tiananmen Square was the same image that, sadly, showed tanks and student protesters during the 4th June 1989. I was a 9 years old youngster living in London at that time and, obviously, I hardly remember anything at that time. However as the years have passed since that atrocious day in Chinese history, the images we in the UK (and outside of China) have been accustomed to watching are of a young man waving something (a white flag or shirt) and standing in front of a tank in the middle of the square. So on this trip; I was curious to see that square and to stand on that piece of historical land. By all means, it was not the purpose of my trip, however I wanted to see that exact place, and just compare the sight of what life is like in 21st Century Beijing, compared to what I had seen through western Media.
On this trip I was fortunate enough to be accompanied by one of my good friend’s who was kind enough to take a couple of days off her work to show me around. Born and raised in Beijing, educated at the famous Tsinghua University and an aspiring Chinese model/actress, I could not have been in any better company in this splendid city. Arriving on a hot and dry afternoon at my hotel, I spent the final hours of that day sightseeing in central Beijing, having been to look at Beihai Park, the Tian Tan (Temple of Heaven) and eating a scrumptious meal at the acclaimed Duck restaurant on 32 Qianmen Street, I eventually made my way through to Tiananmen Square. Standing at the largest square in the in the world for the first time was just such a wonderful feeling. I immediately felt as if I was part of China’s history and not just Beijing’s history. It was a quite atmosphere to absorb. The weather was still fairly hot and there was a slight breeze coming in from the south. There were many families, tourists and residents’ alike taking an evening stroll, some taking photos, while others were just whiling away the time chatting amongst themselves. There were also quite a lot of children flying kites, taking advantage of that slight breeze I suppose. However one thing I did notice which was somewhat difficult to avoid. As a rough estimate, there must have been about two hundred uniformed army and police personnel in the square (possibly more if one includes the non-uniformed ones). Some were marching in line, while others were just standing and watching the crowds. Were they anticipating for something to happen? Was this a routine procedure (or should I say a daily one?)? I did not know the answer to these questions. Nevertheless their presence was all the all a bizarre occurrence to me, as the only time I have seen such high number of police presence is at, say marches or public events (musical concerts and so on)- and here I was standing in Beijing on a perfectly normal and quiet summer’s evening. Every time I got my camera out to take a photo, it had always occurred at the back of my mind, “Is it safe?”, “Will they stop me from taking a photo?” It seems bad that I had these thoughts, but for some reason (I still cannot explain as to why), I always felt a bit fearful of seeing Chinese police. If I, as a foreigner felt this way, I can only imagine what a native Chinese person may feel like. Just then a group of about 10 soldiers where marching towards us. I took a chance and asked my friend to take a photo of me with the soldiers marching as a backdrop. She asked me to stand in front of a tree, and carefully placed the camera at an angle so that no one could tell that she was talking the photos of the soldiers as well. My friend and I strolled our way to the south side of the square, and she was happily explaining to me the daily ceremony of raising (at sunrise) and lowering (at sunset) of the national flag by the guards, when I asked her a few questions; and I could not resist the opportunity. “Is this is way the tanks came in from on the 4th of June?”, “Do you remember what you were doing on that day?” Immediately I realized that I made a mistake of even asking her up front. Suddenly her smile disappeared, and she completely ignored my questions. “Is everything alright?” I asked, to which she replied with a simple nod with a straight facial expression before we changed the subject and carried on talking about other things. To this day, I do not understand what was going through her mind, and will probably never know why she ignored my questions. Interestingly, during my many years in China, I had come to realize that this was not just an isolated case, it was quite common for anyone to just suddenly go quiet and change the subject...would be interesting to know if anyone else (Chinese or non-Chinese) has had a similar experience. Today, the 27th of August 2009, marks the one year anniversary of the conclusion of the Beijing 2008 Olympics. In my heart and mind, it still feels like yesterday- time has just flown by. The sad thing is, and perhaps one of the regrets of my life so far, that I was not able to go to Beijing to witness the Olympics at firsthand. Fate just did not allow me to go, I was too busy with my corporate life in London. Some of you may read this description and see it as an excuse, but its not. I have a special affection with two cities in China, one is Guangzhou, and the other is Beijing. Beijing was MY HOME for just over 2 years from 2004, and I wished I was there for more than that. I still remember the days when I used to cycle from my home in Shangdi district (Qi Er Xi) to Wu Dao Kou near the Tsinghua University campus. I miss those days soo much. If ever I had the power to turn back time, I would definitely rewind back to re-live those days! I spent the 8th of August 2008 preparing for the conference speech which I had the following day, and only got to watch the ceremony briefly later that day. Earlier today in London, at a lunch meeting to mark the one year anniversary of the closing of the Beijing Olympics, I was fortunate enough to discuss about the London 2012 Olympics with the former Olympic Champion Tessa Sanderson. Tessa, who is playing a high profile role in training new talent for the London 2012 Olympics, told me that the London Olympics is going to be the best games staged ever, and everything is well on course for a superb opening in 2012. Hopefully I will be at the London 2012 Olympics...although I am not sure what I'll make of it if by chance I end up being in China during the London 2012 Olympics!!
The London leg was part of the Olympic Torch Relay that will travel to 22 cities on five continents, and every province in China, before arriving back in Beijing for the start of the 2008 Olympic Games on the 8th of August 2008.
The below photo was taken with my tiny Canon IXUS. The Builders in Guangzhou The builders were constructing a flat, I could hear them from where I slept, The flat was being constructed at two in the morning, So I ended up from Yawning to Frowning, The digging was loud and nearby, All I could do is but try to sleep here and sigh, There was loud noise outside, I wished I could find some place to hide. I have been woken up many times in China by the loud drilling and banging of hammers, sometimes as early as 2 a.m. in the morning! The above poem is written in regards to one particular incident I fondly remember. That time the noise from the construction work continued throughout the night. Now, in all fairness, I am kind of person that prefers to sleep in absolute quietness, and even the slightest of noise can disturb my sleep (unless if I am very tired/jet-lagged!!). However in this particular incident, it got to the stage where I had to get out of my flat at something like 2 a.m., in my pajamas, and told the builders in the street to just stop doing whatever they were doing. They all seemed confused as to why I had made this (polite) request, and somewhat surprised too. This probably was because no one before me had complained. After a few surprised looks at each other, thankfully they decided to stop, however to my astonishment, only for about 10 minutes before it all started again as if nothing had happened. I guess they most probably took a cigarette break! The noise was just painfully horrible, and in the morning I had this excruciating headache which forced me not to go to work that day. This was probably the worst case scenario, and the fact that even though I spoke clear and fluent Mandarin to the builders, I failed to understand why they just carried on. In actual fact, some other foreign expats have also complained about this problem. In retrospect, I do take my hat off to these guys because they are the pillars of China's booming economy, and are driving it 24 hours a day- but for us, poor foreigners who are used to living in a lesser noisy environment, it can be somewhat of a problem.
Busking on an early summer's sunshine at around 25 degrees Celsius, and an exciting taxi ride away; (almost as exciting as in Dubai ... but less than Shenzhen); took only an hour and a half to get to the Great Wall at Badaling. A massive sign to the right of the picture reveals a proud welcome to visitors to the city that will host the Olympics in August 2008.
Apart from the few (rare....normally it's jammed packed!) tourists, I was alone with the wall, and its ancient legacy that's rich with local ambiance. That stretch of long rock that stretches over the mountainous peaks in the distance can render you humble and insignificant, is breathtaking. It's magical...there is no other way to describe it. Go there, do it, and be ready to say 'been there, done that!' |
Get in Touch:LIFE MATTERSHere I share my thoughts
and experiences during my travels, and how some things have affected my life as an expat and world traveller. Travelling is about capturing that moment in life. Every word, view and opinion on this page is that of Navjot Singh - except where indicated. The most recent is at the top. Scroll down to read the archive. Or search using CTRL+F (COMMAND + F) and enter a keyword to search the page. Just some of the stories you never heard before. The NAVJOT-SINGH.COM web blog is separate to this web site....Click blog, which may not be visible in some countries due to local firewall restrictions, so in those cases this weblog may be read. The weblog also includes some of my press trip reports- most of which are not published on the official blog because of copyright issues. The weblog also contains articles that may be associated directly with a PR trip for a country, airline or a hotel. These are PR reviews done in relations with various companies. If you are an investor or a trend watcher then you may find this website useful as investing has a lot to do with personal observations and finding the ideal trend or next big thing. The average human on the street frequently knows far more about the state of the economy than politicians, university professors, subject matter experts, and financial analysts who seldom travel, or if they do so, only from one hotel to another hotel! The pulse and vibrancy of an economy is nowhere more visible than on a country's streets. All photos and words are © Navjot Singh unless stated. Photos taken by others or by agencies are appropriately copyrighted under the respective name. No photo or word/s may be taken without the prior written permission by the author (i.e. Navjot Singh). All Rights Reserved. Archives
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