12 YEARS ago when I first arrived in Guangzhou, the CITIZ Plaza captivated the skyline of Tian He as the tallest building in the whole city. Today, the tower still dominates the skyline in Tian He...and only in Tian He...because Zhujiang New Town (which was nothing but open farm land back in 2000!!) has plenty of high rise gems that have made it into the city's concrete jungle.
Autumn is usually the time when Hong Kong people dash to buy the hairy crab (known as the Chinese mitten crab) as it is a delicacy in local Cantonese cuisine (and also in Shanghai too). These little freshwater creatures sell like hot cakes around the territory because they are highly valued for their rich golden creamy roe and zesty white meat and are the most sought-after because they are only available in autumn.
The majority of the hairy crabs in Hong Kong are imported from from Yangcheng Lake (located close to the city of Suzhou. Kaiping lies on the west of the Pearl River Delta region of China's Guangdong Province. The Tanjiang River flows along it's eastern side towards the mighty Pearl River. Originally Kaiping was part of Guangdong's Panyu County when Emperor Qin Shi Huang unified China in 214 B.C. The was gradually included within the Yi'ning County from the Period of the Warring States to the Song Dynasty. Kaiping used to border Xinhui, Xinxing, Taishan, and Enping counties where crime and poverty were rife. Hence the reason why the Qing government relocated the Kaiping area west of Xinhui and to the east of Enping to establish Kaiping as a new county in the sixth reign year of Shuanzhi of the Qing Dynasty (1649). The name Kaiping stands for 'establishing peace'. The Opium War (1840-1842) which was an attack on China by the British led to serious problems of drug addiction, over population, starvation, and employment; all of which forced the inhabitants of Kaiping into social chaos. At the same time, Western countries opened their doors to allow Chinese migrant workers to add value to their economies. Mr. Xie She Do, a native of Tangkou in Kaiping, was one of the first Chinese 'coolies' to be sold to America through Hong Kong in 1839. Thus began the history of emigration to the West by mainland Chinese people. The Kaiping natives journeyed back and forth between China and their adopted countries, bringing back with them not only money and wealth but also the Western scientific, architectural, and cultural know-how, which became a significant influence on the local area. Out of these, perhaps architecture is the best example of the influence that was created here. In the Kaiping countryside, there are many unique architectural styles visible among a variety of diaolou, ancestral homes, churches, shrines, mansions, and garden villas etc. Below are photos taken from the many diaolous in Kaiping. Original hometown to one quarter of the “Flying Tigers,” the legendary group of American airmen who fought the Japanese during the Second World War before the US entered it, and a spectacular stretch of rugged land, beach, mountainous terrain, and sea, Taishan wooed my adventurous appetite so much that I have vowed to come back as soon as I can. Because of the absolute beauty of the place, the various sleepy villages around Taishan are used as location sets for movies, and TV serials that depict either period drama or the rural countryside. From my experience, these villages may even be a great set for a Western Hollywood movie! Lying around 14 kilometres offshore from Taishan City in the South China Sea are two fabulously unspoiled islands, Xiachuan and Shangchuan. The latter is the largest island in Guangdong province, and has cemented itself as the place to witness the most spectacular blissful sunsets and sunrises in the region. The island is also famed for being the place of death of St. Francis Xavier, the renowned Roman Catholic missionary. Shangchuan was one of the first bases established by the Portuguese during their colonial expedition in south China. Both islands are dotted with miniature fishing villages, and if you are adventurous enough you may even get close enough to befriend some of the local fishermen and spend a couple of hours out at sea with them on a fishing expedition. Indeed, to capture the catch of the day, go to the morning fish market on the Wangfuzhou beachfront on Xiachuan Island. The fishing boats start arriving at around 7.30am everyday. Opened in 2003, the relatively new Gudou Hot Spring Resort is a particularly impressive place. Situated in the rural outskirts of Jiangmen in China's Guangdong Province, the vast resort is a beehive for those who want to escape the bitterly cold winter and indulge themselves in hot springs. From a distance it may look like a replica German castle with it's bell tower sticking out of the tree tops, however on a closer look it actually resembles a very greased up Chinese-style high end resort. With it’s own man-made beach, lake, and a collection of three luxury hotels with over 700 rooms and suites in total, and not to forget the numerous hot springs dotted around the resort, the resort is one of the largest in mainland China. Hot springs and resorts are very popular in the winter months in China because not only they provide a respite for those seeking to get away from the surroundings of their cold homes (note: many Chinese homes are not equipped with Central Heating...especially not in Southern China), but also because they provide the chance for a mini-vacation for the whole family. Gudou Hot Spring Resort is aimed at the high end market. Although the three hotels within the resort provide a similar architecture, they each have a different feel to them, and suit what hoteliers would like to class as 'different trip purposes'. The rooms throughout the resort have a 24-hour service, free wired and wi-fi internet access, safes, minibars, tea and coffee facilities, and complimentary his and her's branded slippers and bathrobes to be used while at the hot springs. The design of the rooms is a mixture of traditional Chinese in one hotel, and traditional Japanese style in another - think dark floors, neutral spacious decor, and tasteful throws on the comfortable and generously large double beds (single beds can also be asked for). It naturally serves as an after-work or during-vacation resort of reflection for overburdened locals. For foodie loves, the resort offers endless opportunities to tuck into whatever tickles your fancy. There are not many hotels in Jiangmen that are this good and in fact the Gudou Hot Spring does stick out because of it's spacious surroundings that it offers to its guests. It's a pity that such as beautiful and outstanding property does not host many non-Chinese visitors, so if you are going to go then please go with a Chinese-speaking friend/colleague (unless, of course, you can speak Mandarin). Authentic Cantonese Cuisine
In and around the Jiangmen Greater Area are Tombstones (Huang Zhu Keng) erected in memory of those Overseas Chinese who left Jiangmen, however sadly they never managed to return to their homeland. The Tombstones were erected by the local residents as a memorial to honour their sacrifice for their homelands. Many of the deceased had no family members to give them a proper funeral, so therefore a charity was set up by the local people to give them the respect. Every year, during the Tomb Sweeping national holiday (Qing Ming festival), many Overseas Chinese people come back to pay respects to the deceased at these tombs in Jiangmen. Neatly located on the lower reaches of the Xijiang or West River, in the west of the Pearl River Delta, and about an hour’s drive away from Guangzhou, is the historical city of Jiangmen. With an area of around 9,300 square kilometres, and a population of only 4.5 million people, the region enjoys a laid back air of tranquillity compared to the hustle and bustle of, say, Guangzhou. It is quiet, however not unpleasantly so – in fact, the stillness enhances what few natural sounds there are to help create the perfect escape from reality. Jiangmen is affectionately known as Wuyi, meaning the land of five counties. By all means Jiangmen is without doubt a quintessentially Chinese city which, despite China’s rapid expansion, has not lost its quieter cultural experience. Lying on the banks of the Tanjiang River, between the Guan and Situ family memorial libraries is the old, tiny and sleepy market town of Chikan. It is located around 25 kilometres from downtown Kaiping. When you walk along the airy and narrow lanes of Chikan, you feel a mixture of wanderlust, and curiosity. Many of the locals are old aged pensioners whiling away their retirement doing not much except looking after their cats, or busy drying fresh fish and vegetables. The beauty of living in a place such as Chikan is that people live here in a similar fashion to how they may have lived 350 years ago when the town was founded as a fish market. The area is hugely popular with film makers, with movies such as Drunken Master II, Story of Hong Kong, and Wang Kar Wai’s martial arts epic, ‘The Grandmaster’ were all filmed on location at Chikan. A week's press trip took me to the southern Chinese city of Jiangmen (in Guangdong Province). Jiangmen is the ancestral hometown of many Cantonese expats who live in Western countries. In fact, Jiangmen people are proud to claim that the first Chinese migrants to Western countries (esp. Canada, U.S.A, and Malaysia) came from their hometown. These Chinese migrants set up the first Chinatowns in the Philippines, US, and Canada, and later set a trend for Chinatowns around the world. I also managed to explore the nearby areas of Kaiping, Guifeng Shan, Gudou Hot Spring, Xiachuan Island, and Taishan (photos to follow soon). Article on Jiangmen in Nihao - in-flight magazine of China Southern AirlinesWhile the world's media commented on how destructive typhoon Usagi was; in Shenzhen and Hong Kong it hardly felt as if a typhoon had arrived. There was plenty of rain and wind, but nothing compared to what one may define as a typhoon. Usagi - which means rabbit in Japanese - had produced winds of 165 km/h (103 mph) as it closed in on China's densely populated Pearl River Delta. Sadly 25 souls lost their lives in Guangdong Province (including 3 sailors who went fishing from Xiaoshan Island near Taishan - but never returned and were never found). What the media failed to mention to the world is that Guangdong Province is not tiny as they made it out to be. It is just over 2/3 the size of the U.K. (Guangdong Province is 177,900 km² and the U.K. is 243,610 km²), and so when the media mentions that typhoon Usagi hit Guangdong Province, in fact it did not hit the whole of the province but a portion of the province that is close to the sea (very close to the southern part near Hainan Island, and towards the Vietnam Border). Thankfully there was minimal damage in Shenzhen, and Hong Kong. I live in Futian District, and there was hardly any damage done, and no floods. In fact, a thunder storm which we experience about 2 weeks ago was worse than the weather we experienced last night It's holiday time here in China. Tomorrow (19th September 2013) the full moon will shine on the whole nation as families and friends gather around to take time off for a much needed holiday break (only 3 days though...but some people take more days off).
During the Mid-Autumn Festival, if you are going to visit someone's home (friends, family etc.), office (for corporate meetings, business visits etc.), or even if you are meeting a friend after a long time during the holiday then it is customary to take a gift box of mooncakes - to not take one would seem odd and even dis-respectful. However, exceptions can be made, of course, if you are a foreigner and if this is your first time in China. Supermarkets were armed at dealing with the final rush to buy mooncakes as pictures show below. I wish I had taken a photo of Panyu back on that hot summer's day in August 2003. This is because if I had taken a photo of Panyu all those years ago then I would have been able to compare to what it looked like in those days to what it looks like today. In those days Panyu was nothing but a dusty industrial town with very poor infrastructure, and was heavy polluted. Since the opening of metro Line 3 in 2009, two of Panyu's sub districts - Panyu Square and Shiqiao - have become heavily popular residential areas for most of Guangzhou's population. Rent is still remarkably cheaper than what you would have to pay in downtown Tian He (a three bedroom modern apartment can cost anything in the region of RMB 3,000 in Panyu...the same apartment would cost around RMB 7,800 in downtown).
Shiqiao, an area covering only 11.35 square kms is becoming modern at a dizzying pace (I would refrain from saying that it's becoming more Americanized like the rest of the country). In the space of around 3 years this tiny town with a population of around 280,000 in the south-east of Panyu district, has become home to SIX McDonald's outlets, TWO KFC outlets, TWO Starbucks outlets (as if one was not enough), TWO Pizza Hut outlets, and an abundance of 7-Eleven stores. Shiqiao is the political, economic, cultural and commercial centre of Panyu District, and has direct jurisdiction over 28 communities and 8 villages. Oh, by the way, there used to be a Dunkin Donuts outlet in the main plaza next to Shiqiao Metro station. It opened in 2009 when I first started living in Shiqiao, and then it closed in February this year due to lack of demand because Chinese people love Starbucks (it's seen as a status symbol among the rising Middle-Class and elite to drink Starbucks coffee). I am a huge fan of Dunkin Donuts, and being British, I have always been highly impressed by the way they make their milk teas- now that's something rare for an American food outlet to achieve (!). I would be more than happy to speak to a few Starbucks executives about this, but in my opinion Starbucks are not marketing and selling the tea as it should be done (take note....Earl Grey is tea without flavour...and I'd like to meet the innovative person who thought about serving a cup of tea with milk FOAM poured on the top!!). I have bought Starbucks tea in mainland China, Dubai, Istanbul, Singapore, Bangkok, Detroit, Toronto, Paris, Hong Kong, and even in London (home of tea!), and I can tell you that it tastes nothing like the tea that we loyal tea drinkers are used to. I am not sure what native Indians in India think about the tea offered by Starbucks. Believe me, being a British man of Indian heritage I know what real tea and coffee tastes like (I am, of course, referring to black tea). Chai, the word for tea used in most Eurasian countries (including Russia), originated in India during the British Raj under King George, and the original tea derives from the romantic hills of Darjeeling and Shimla (PG Tips and Tetley have it right). Maybe Starbucks should stick to just selling the coffee - which by my definition is not real coffee either. In my opinion, Chinese people need to be brought up to revere real Italian coffee. Perhaps they should do what the Aussies did after the GFC, where 800 Starbucks stores were closed in Australia - mostly in Melbourne. Only poofs put vanilla in coffee, and milk foam on their tea...! With such stunning views of the southern Chinese city of Shenzhen, it almost impossible not to think of how beautiful life can be at over 1,300 feet while sipping a fine glass of Riscal Roble 2008 and tucking into your pumpkin and cheese soup. But then again, this is not your average restaurant, but one that deserves more attention that it gets. Located at the 99th floor of the St Regis Shenzhen hotel, the Elba serves fine Mediterranean cuisine with a view to please even the most gastronomically challenged.
Since the St Regis Shenzhen opened in December 2011, Elba has become a popular hotspot for Shenzhen’s business yuppies, and the increasingly newly found rich who want to do nothing more than show off. The ambiance may not be too lavish; however all of those changes the moment the flavours of the colourful dishes start to dance your tongue. Elba is definitely big, bold and brash, however it did come across that the pedestrian cooking was a letdown, especially for a high end eatery that wants to prove itself among the bustling completion in town. Basically if I was a diner here I would want to be pampered right from the moment of my first spoonful to the last. To be frank Elba is the kind of place only its mother could really love. It's like a late adolescent who's just discovered fashion and luxury lifestyle. It's loud and brash and pleased with itself. Location is fantastic, but the interior quality of the food lacks the glamour that it works so hard to get across. The wine list is strong and has some first-class choices at astoundingly low prices. I also ate some pleasing things from the long menu, which roams from raw bar to hot kitchen to something called "wood stone.” If you are in a rush then opt for the lunch business set meal, which includes a starter, main dish and a dessert. Some of the fine choices for the set lunch menu include battered cod fish, or pumpkin and clam chowder. Service was ‘okay’, but somehow dysfunctional. It took two requests to get them to stop attempting to fill my wine and water glass. Whether the fact that I was dining with the hotel manager made them nervous, I have to have give them the benefit of the doubt on that one. One thing I will say though is that good authentic Italian cuisine is very hard to find in China. However, if you want to taste a bit of Italy before you get there, then try Elba. Hey there may be better Italian restaurants in the whole of China, however for the time being Elba does a superb job in being one of the best in Shenzhen. For a city that is technically only around 35 years old, Shenzhen in south-east China has experienced a rapid economic and cultural change in such a short space of time that most global cities would not be able to enjoy. These days it is a case of every global brand wanting to have their fair share of the piece of land in this tiny city, which borders Hong Kong.
When I arrived in Shenzhen back in 2003, the tallest building in those days was the Diwang building. When it was first built the Diwang building at 384 meters high was a stunning piece of architecture offering the best views in the city and the best office space. It was a sign of sheer prestige for the city and its people. The funny thing is that I have never had the chance to go up the Diwang building simply because I never had the time, and I did not really realise that the city would be so beautiful from up there. So then, to my delight, in September 2011, a building even taller than the Diwang building opened its doors to the public. Standing at 441.8 meters and with 100 floors, the Kingkey 100 building, designed by the architect Sir Terry Farrell, is the tallest building in Shenzhen. While the bottom part of the building houses offices, the top 28 floors from the 73rd to the 100th floor occupy the glorious five-star St Regis Hotel, Shenzhen. It’s quite befitting that the tallest building and hotel in Shenzhen is located right next to the famous Deng Xiao Ping portrait on Shennan Road. Indeed, this was the place where the great man declared his legacy in 1979 that the city should be opened a Special Economic Zone (SEZ), and it’s somewhat a sign of the city’s prosperity. Opened in December 2011 and located right at the epicentre of the most happening place in the city, the centre of the Caiwuwei financial district, the St. Regis Shenzhen offers a lovely blend of stunning views of Shenzhen, superb in-room modern facilities and a heaven for the gastronomic senses. Then there is the unique glamorous touch that makes the St Regis stand out from the rest- the matchless St Regis Butler Service. It’s a signature trademark of the hotel brand that makes every guest feel extra special, and it’s utterly unique to Shenzhen. Trained in the English tradition to provide ever-present, yet unobtrusive round the clock service, the St. Regis Butler sets the stage for an experience that provides a very personalised service, no matter how great or small, at any hour of the day and night. So it may be that you would like to have your cup of hot chocolate before going to sleep, or have your shirt ironed, or you may need assistance with packing up your bags whilst you are busy doing something else. Whatever your needs, you can be reassured that your dedicated St Regis Butler will be there to help you. With its 290 elegantly appointed guest rooms and suites, the St Regis Shenzhen is actually not as enormous as one would imagine it to be. The illusion is that it is located in a tall tower so people assume that it’s a massive property. The demand for a luxury service from the local Chinese is so much that there is even a waiting list in place for the hotel’s highly sought after Afternoon Tea service at the Social restaurant on the 95th floor. That’s also where you’re most likely to find the hotel’s Food & Beverage director, JW Yap, showing off his magic with the champagne pouring ceremony before the dinner service. An interesting yet revolutionising part of this is that hardly any of the people dining for Afternoon Tea are British as one would imagine, but are mostly young Chinese. It’s another symbol of the cultural change that cities such as Shenzhen, and indeed the whole of China are going through. The exceedingly rich are being exposed to the glitz and the glamour, and they have the money to flourish it onto. The St Regis Shenzhen is definitely the place to be at and be seen at. Be prepared to be spoiled right from the moment you check-in. Where else do you need to be at when you are surrounded by creature comforts such as amenities by Remede Laboratoire, 3 complimentary clothes ironed for those staying in the suites, 3D Cinema sound in room, 9 different types of pillow from ‘Pillow Menu’,; and not to mention the exclusive St Regis turndown service that includes chocolates by Ritter. Now if that’s not enough then check out the 3 kinds of breakfast you can eat at either the Social, or in the comfort of your bed in the sky. Then there are the 35 international newspapers available from 21 countries including Greece (Kathimerini), Norway (Dagbladet) and others. The highlight of the exquisitely styled rooms and suites, all of which are ranging in size from 40 to 325 square meters, is the in-room fully customised iPad2 that allows you to control and manage every aspect of your room’s functionalities. The iPad2 comes in handy when you could be sitting in your bed, or whiling away in the Jacuzzi, or just about to order your in-room meal. With its touch screen iPad2 allows you to control things such as the curtains, the levels of the mood lighting, and music of the room, the temperature, the TV channel, and even if you want to call your personal Butler to the room. On top of this, the iPad2 is the interface for the St. Regis ISTV, a personalized set of television channels with important information such as local maps and attractions, express check-out, PC games, or to set up morning calls or housekeeping service. ISTV also provides guests with personal computer functionality. Using a personal laptop or tablet as a keyboard, ISTV converts the television into a large monitor or speakers. ISTV can process software like Word, Excel and Powerpoint, and facilitate printing and faxing through the hotel’s network. It’s simple yet amazingly incredible and can make your stay give the essential ‘Wow!’ factor. I honestly wish they had this hotel here way back in 2004 when I first arrived in Shenzhen. It’s not only the peace and tranquil surroundings but the absolute convenience of staying close to Hong Kong that would appeal to anyone looking for a respite away from the city’s hustle & bustle. It’s very convenient that you can have breakfast in the morning at the hotel, and then perhaps go for a shopping trip across the border to Hong Kong for a day, and then come back to cool down the heels in the evening at the Decanter bar on the 100th floor. The sky-high urban wine bar offers one of Shenzhen's largest selections of wines alongside impressive views and a private Butler (of course, you wouldn't expect less, would you?). This hotel is an incomparable, inspiring place and a home away from home. Sip a glass of fine Riscal Roble 2008, and admire the beauty of the future of the centre of the world from the 100th floor. When it comes to food, you can be reassured that despite Shenzhen’s rather uncanny approach to internationalism and despite there being no Michelin star restaurant in this city, the St Regis Shenzhen does attempt at providing one of the best international dishes in the market. Had they arrived here a few years then it would have been all hunky dory, however with the growing competition from other 5-star eateries, the chefs at this splendid hotel located in an upmarket part of the city are doing everything they can to showcase the best. Try the Elba on the 99th floor offering authentic Mediterranean cuisine with romantic interior décor. Whatever you do, just feel fortunate, and don’t forget to make the most of your time in the sky over Shenzhen- I know I did. With so much local culture to explore in Guangdong province, I decided to take a day’s trip down to Panyu, the oldest part of Guangzhou located in the south part of the metropolis. This town was the original capital city of Guangdong province. I decided to check out the tiny village of Shawan, the part of the city that formed the epicentre of that original capital city. Located around 6 kilometres from the nearest metro station at Shiqiao, Shawan village is neatly hidden away in the outskirts of the city.
Though the village is trying to attract tourists, it still resembles somewhat of a ghost town as there is hardly a whisker in sight on any given day of the week (except of course during the holiday season). On any average hot summer’s day it is normal to walk through the quite narrow lanes of the village and perhaps come across shop keepers lazily taking an afternoon siesta in the shade away from the blazing midday sun. The village does not possess the charm that may be found in more well known ancient preserved villages such as for example Suzhou or Hangzhou. What is amazing is that people live in Shawan in a similar style and in a similar style of environment as they used to do hundreds of years ago. The only difference may be that nowadays people have electricity, proper sanitation, internet, and most important of all, air-conditioning to take respite away from the hot and humid weather. However, other ways of living are similar to traditional style of living like milking the cows by hand, hens, and rabbits freely flocking the grounds, butchers having their meat being sold on ice-carts, and bread rolls, and seeds being dried using the baking sun’s heat. And in between these people’s homes, large former mansions belonging to Emperors and former ancient government ministers have been converted into museums for all to see. It just goes to show the lavish life they had in those days. Try indulging your taste buds into the local delicacy, sweet milk curd (known locally as ‘Shuang Pi Nai’). Every morning cows are milked in the farms nearby. The ridiculously delicious milk is then blended in with sugar, and served either hot or cold. It tastes a bit like lemon curd, or fresh Greek style yogurt, but not as thick in texture. The temptation to have more than one cupful is difficult to resist. Each cupful costs RMB 5 (around GBP 50 pence). Allow a good 1 hour to explore the place. It may feel isolated at first, but I tell you, looks can be deceptive. Shawan has more jewels to offer than the eye meets at first glance. Just make sure you take your camera with you, and be ready to capture the unusual. How I got to Shawan: If you are coming from downtown Guangzhou, then take metro line 3 to Shiqiao station and then take exit C. As you come out of the metro station exit C, turn left in front of Seven 11. After Seven 11, turn right, and you will come across a branch of Pizza Hut. Right in front of Pizza Hut is a bus stop from where you can take bus number 12 straight to Shawan. The cost is RMB 2 one way, and takes around 20 minutes. After you get off the bus stop at Shawan then walk straight ahead for around 30 feet until you come across a large cinema complex, and then turn right. Shawan Ancient Town is straight ahead of you! How much does it cost? Visitors can purchase a RMB55 that allows you entrance to all the 10 preserved mansions and small museums, or there is a separate RMB10 charge for each attraction (i.e. it makes sense to purchase the RMB 55 collective ticket as you get more for low price). I fondly recall taking part in the dragon boat race this time last year in Shanghai, of which our super team was beaten into 2nd place by less than only 2 seconds! As captain, I was gifted with a superb team who excelled in all departments of organization, structure, and perfect motion of the oars with great timing. A fantastic team, along with perfect weather conditions helped us to become (almost) winners of the tournament. This year, though I will not be taking part in any dragon boat race, I will, however be watching a few races at the Zhujiang River (Pearl River) in Guangzhou. The Dragon Boat Festival is a lunar holiday, occurring on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month. The Chinese Dragon Boat Festival is a significant holiday celebrated in China, and the one with the longest history. The Dragon Boat Festival is celebrated by boat races in the shape of dragons. Competing teams row their boats forward to a drumbeat racing to reach the finish end first. The boat races during the Dragon Boat Festival are traditional customs to attempts to rescue the loyal Chinese poet Chu Yuan. Chu Yuan drowned on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month in 277 B.C. Chinese citizens now throw bamboo leaves filled with cooked rice into the water. Therefore the fish could eat the rice rather than the hero poet. This later on turned into the custom of eating tzungtzu, and rice dumplings (known as 'zhongzhi'). Chinese people normally have 3 days off work. So this year the 22nd, 23rd and 24th will be national holidays for all mainland Chinese people. In Guangzhou, a race was organized in the Lizhiwan area of the city. Lizhiwan looks rather like Guangzhou’s equivalent of Amsterdam with boats navigating through the 743 meter-long waterway from Shamian Island to Liwan Lake. With lush greenery, numerous shops selling all kinds of traditional Cantonese food and period style buildings there is no better way to spend your day off. The one thing that does catch ones eye is the sensational ancient buildings with colonial style architecture that lie right next to rather traditional Cantonese architectural styled buildings. There is the amazing Wen Tower, a hexagonal designed pagoda style tower that gives a glimpse of the old style buildings. While in contrast there is the Chen Lianbo Residence, a typical Canton building from the 1920s colonial era. Some people also pay a visit to their local temple to pay respects to Buddha or Guangyi. The celebration is a time for protection from evil and disease for the rest of the year. It is done so by different practices such as hanging healthy herbs on the front door, drinking nutritious concoctions, and displaying portraits of evil's nemesis, Chung Kuei. Now, supposedly, if one manages to stand an egg on its end at exactly 12:00 noon, the following year will be a lucky one. Maybe I will try to do that this year and see if the following year will bring me good luck. On the other hand, no matter what, everyday is blessing from god. Because China is such an enormous and complex country, therefore moving to a new city in China can be described as an experience similar to that of moving to a new country (even if those two cities are within the same province). This means when you relocate your life from one city to another city in China then you will most likely have to:
1) get a new mobile phone number, 2) apply for a new bank account, 3) re-register with the local police as a foreigner, 4) get accustomed to the culture, and language of the new city 5) get used to the local food 6) get used to the business culture as well as the people’s culture From my first three weeks in Guangzhou, what I have come to realise is that generally in the south region there is no real sense of urgency in everything the local people do- and I mean EVERYTHING. The first impression of this is clearly visible as one arrives at the city’s airport. The ever-slow paced queue at the arrivals taxi stand seems to go on for as far as the eye can see. Other examples include the laid-back approach displayed by the staff at local banks, and even mobile phone shops, and waitresses at restaurants taking forever to deliver your dishes. Despite being in Guangzhou for such a short time, I have also happened to experience two separate cases of theft in such a short time. The first case involves identity theft. I relocated from Suzhou to Guangzhou, which is a journey of around two and a half hours by plane. When I left my apartment in Suzhou, I forgot to deactivate my internet account, and I forgot to deactivate my mobile phone account for Suzhou too. Once I got to Guangzhou, I called the service provider (China Mobile), and asked them to deactivate my Suzhou internet account. To my frustration, they told me that I have to physically go back to the branch outlet where I originally signed up for the internet account to be able to permanently deactivate the account. That meant that I would have had to take at least a day (make that two days just in case of flight delays, etc.) to go back to Suzhou just to close an internet and mobile phone accounts. Now, to make matters worse, the person who moved into my home in Suzhou started using the internet for free under my account because it was still open. He even started using mu mobile phone number (by claiming to be me!). The only solution for this dilemma was for me to change my password for both my internet account and also my mobile phone number, and until I returned to Suzhou I could not close both accounts down (and I have no idea when I'll return to Suzhou). The second case happened on the ground here in Guangzhou. This Cantonese city, in my experience, being a 2nd tier Chinese city, also comes across as a riskier place compared to the westernised cities such as Shanghai and Beijing. Good people and bad people reside everywhere; however, that risk of bumping into certain troubles tends to become more apparent in slightly deprived areas of any city in any part of the world. Guangzhou is no exception to this. What I experienced yesterday was nothing short of stuff compared to classic Hong Kong movies (without being stereotypically negative here). I was in a coffee shop in Panyu in the southeast part of Guangzhou. My intention was to have a nice cup of coffee and make my way to the local bank so I could open a new Guangzhou bank account. As I left my laptop bag on a chair, and made my way to the counter to pay for my coffee a young man calmly picked up my laptop bag and left the coffee shop. My immediate reaction on realising the theft of my bag was of shock and anger with myself of leaving it on the chair (even for less than a minute). I called 110 for the police, and at the same time questioned the shop staff on why they did not stop the man. Their response was that because the man left the shop so calmly, they thought he was my friend. The most worrying thing for me was not losing my laptop or passport as those could easily be replaced with new ones, but of losing my precious photos, and all the articles I had written (including the manuscript for the 2nd edition of my first book on China). Even my backup USB drive was in the bag. In the 5 hours of drama that followed, remarkably the thief called me back (he found my number on a document inside my bag), and asked for 200,000 yuan in ransom (approx. £20,200 GBP). To cut the story short, eventually I had agreed to go with at least 10 undercover police officers to a specified location on the outskirts of Guangzhou with 'fake money'. The plan was to hand over the ‘fake money’ to the culprit, and at that moment, the plain clothed police officers would jump in to arrest him by surprise. I did manage to tell the thief (through a translator who could speak Cantonese), not to erase any of the data from the laptop as that meant a lot to me. As we made our way to the undisclosed location in a disused industrial area of Guangzhou, we got news that the unarmed man had turned himself into a local police. Thankfully, all of my belongings were returned in one piece (including my passport, house keys, credit cards, and around 1,000 yuan of cash). It could easily have turned ugly. While being interrogated, the man claimed to be mentally ill (he showed the police a doctor’s note), and claimed he was not aware of what he was doing. With tears rolling down his face he apologised to me. It's perhaps a relief that I got everything in one piece but shockingly according to Chinese law, if someone is mentally ill then they cannot be charged for any crime no matter how serious the offense is. So effectively this man got away lightly. A journalist from the Guangzhou Yanchang Evening News accompanied me throughout the event to note it on record. He told me that only 3 weeks ago another mentally ill man beheaded his own uncle in Tian He District, but he could not be charged for the murder because he was proven to be mentally ill. Scary hey? So, thankfully it was a good conclusion, and it was nice to know so many good people were there to assist me at this difficult moment in my life. This included my colleagues, the police, and my friends who kept me company on the phone throughout the ordeal. I got my laptop back. However, most importantly I got my articles, manuscript, and precious photos back. You can bet your bottom dollar I’ll never let go of my bag next time I order a coffee (not even for a second…not in a place like Panyu). Located within only a few minutes’ walk away from Guangzhou East train station, the busiest train station in China’s Guangdong Province, is the stunning Westin hotel Guangzhou. The Westin Guangzhou was one of the first international hotels to be opened in this southern Chinese city way back in 2005. The remarkable thing about the Westin Guangzhou is that all of its 446 well appointed guestrooms and suites are the most spacious in the whole city- far more than any other hotel around the world actually. With the smallest rooms, the Deluxe and the Renewal rooms being 46-59 Square Meters, the standard sized rooms at the Westin Guangzhou are similar size to what you may get in a junior deluxe suite in another 5-star hotel. In a nutshell, they are so huge that one could effectively do some simple workout inside (not that I did during my stay). One cannot resist the 600-thread cotton duvets in which one can cuddle up on a cold rainy winters Guangdong evening.
But it’s not just the grandstanding of the location or the guestrooms that the hotel has become a firm favourite among the most affluent of Guangzhou people. But rather it’s the quality of the excellent customer service of the staff members that distinguishes the Westin Guangzhou to other hotels within the vicinity of its tall shadows. While the hotel may not be that imposing or beautiful from the outside, it’s the attractiveness of the inside that matters the most. Every attention of minute detail is paid to where the customers are made sure that they do not feel out of place at any one time. What one would like most about the customer service here though is that not only do the staff speak impeccable English, but they are also very proficient in the way they take care of when a customer checks in, stays and checks out. I was rather surprised and happy to know that someone managed to remember my name on at least separate occasions. For such a large hotel that has all the positive advantages of a geographical and physical attractiveness, the key of an eventful stay may include the dining experience as well. There are five restaurants and lounges that can keep you busy for a while should you wish to indulge yourself into the various amounts of culinary delights on offer. Apart from the usual Chinese (Hong Mian), and Italian (Prego) options, the Westin also provides an excellent feast at an American Latin (Yes, a Latin) eatery known as Qba. Not many 5-star hotels in China have a Latin restaurant (they normally have a Chinese or an Italian option). Located firmly on the first floor, Qba is steeped in enticing aromas, music, and atmosphere. Grilled, charred or spicy—an extensive menu offers tempting small plates and entrées. After a good meal, why not savour a drink or leisurely smoke in the inviting Cigar Bar. Located in the southern Chinese city of Guangzhou, the area called Lizhiwan looks rather like Guangzhou’s equivalent of Amsterdam with boats navigating through the 743 meter-long waterway from Shamian Island to Liwan Lake. With lush greenery, numerous shops selling all kinds of traditional Cantonese food and period style buildings there is no better way to spend your day off. The one thing that does catch ones eye is the sensational ancient buildings with colonial style architecture that lie right next to rather traditional Cantonese architectural styled buildings. There is the amazing Wen Tower, a hexagonal designed pagoda style tower that gives a glimpse of the old style buildings. While in contrast there is the Chen Lianbo Residence, a typical Canton building from the 1920s colonial era.
Located on the 3rd floor of The Ritz-Carlton hotel in Guangzhou, the award-winning Lai Heen restaurant is a fine example of fine Cantonese dining. It provides an experience like no other. You just have to be there to feel the true aroma of the Cantonese food, art and culture.
Design, perfection and presentation are the buzz words that The Ritz-Carlton, Guangzhou prides itself in especially when it comes to providing a truly five star quality cuisine. The experience at the Lai Heen commences even before you set your hands on your chopsticks. Guests are greeted by the sight of a Chinese lady dressed in traditional wear and playing the stringed Zheng. Waitresses dressed in the tradition Qi Piao can be observed delivering the dishes to the various dining rooms. The atmosphere portrays elegance and is not as loud as one would expect from a typical Chinese restaurant in mainland China. After all, this is a high quality eatery at The Ritz-Carlton that mostly plays host to business people and the high end market. Though quiet on the whole, yet still some gentle remises of laughter can be heard in the background and sometimes even the occasional “Gambei!” (“Cheers!”), followed by the clinking of the wine, or Mao-tai glasses. Besides the main dining room, there are six private rooms and eight semi-private rooms’ that are elegantly designed and decorated. The private dining rooms can be separated by either the doors, or the tradition style of a drop-down Chinese curtain. The Feng Shui cannot be any better because all the rooms are facing towards the direction of the lady that plays’ the stringed Zheng in the veranda of the restaurant. Now, whether that’s a good thing or bad is purely a personal choice but the fact of the matter is that it projects a feeling of elegance. All the dishes are prepared under the excellent direction of Cantonese cooking master Chef Mark Leung. The Lai Heen specialises in providing an unforgettable experience when it comes to Tea pairing. The process of “tea-pairing” consists of a pioneering blend of eastern and western fine dining experience and tradition that is available only at the “Lai Heen”. Guests can experience the Cantonese ambience and taste of an exclusive set menu featuring seven set dishes that are expertly coupled with five different varieties of tea from across China. I actually felt that this was more like an excellent art exhibition of the food and not just a restaurant. If you love tea, like I do, then you would jump at the first opportunity to try the most original of the foods at this restaurant. In all the years that I have been reviewing restaurants’ and living in China, this was the first time that I had come across a restaurant where the food has a direct relationship with certain types of Chinese tea. I could not wait to get my chopsticks into the dishes! The culinary adventure commenced with a lovely “Grilled suckling pig in lychee tea flavour”. This dish was accompanied with freshly made Lychee tea. The suckling pig is a traditional Cantonese dish that forms part of any formal meal. Normally the standard way to present the dish is to have a whole suckling piglet in the middle of the table (complete with the head and tail!), and the guests slowly take parts of the meat. The suckling pig is used because the skin is not so thick but rather juicy and crispy. So therefore the whole flavor of the meat along with the herbal toppings can be slowly absorbed by a melting feeling in the mouth. The suckling pig was accompanied by a fabulous portion of colored carrot that was presented in the shape of a circle- looked a bit like chess draughts’. The next course consisted of the “Double boiled minced pork, fish maw and black truffle soup”. This scrumptious dish was generously accompanied with Chrysanthemum tea. I found this dish to be of a rather peculiar taste, not just because it was simply too hot but the fact that a soup was meant to be drank at the same time as the tea. Nonetheless, this combination is meant to be ridiculously good for the body especially during the winter. Sautéed wagyu beef “French” style. Now, this was indeed a surprise. “French style, in an authentic Cantonese eatery at The Ritz-Carlton, Guangzhou?” I hear you say! Well, actually, yes, the sautéed wagyu beef was cooked to sheer perfection in true Cantonese style but had an added French touch in terms of the presentation. It goes well with the French-Cantonese fusion. This meal was accompanied with a Rose tea that had no colour but had the strong aroma and flavour of the romantic flower that it’s named after. For those who have not had the chance to experience what it’s like to eat food straight from a handmade clay pot I would certainly recommend that you try the “Poached mix vegetable, dried shrimp, scallop and vermicelli in clay pot”. The clay pot is used to keep the food hot for a long time, and on the whole this was nothing but a perfection of presentation style. One could easily taste that careful attention had been made to the way the dried shrimp and scallops were surrounded by generous amounts of vermicelli. This dish was nicely accompanied with White Peony tea. Before I was given the dessert, the chef presented a surprise Cantonese dish. A lovely dumpling accompanied with a healthy portion of fried-egg noodles shaped neatly into a pyramid was presented. I just adore dumplings, especially the ones with the shrimp and vegetables’ inside them. The Cantonese dumpling is perhaps the next best food in the far-east after the Japanese sushi. You can travel all around the world and try all the Chinese restaurants world-wide, but nothing beats the feeling of eating an authentic Cantonese dumpling in Guangzhou, the capital of Cantonese food, where people take their food exceedingly seriously. The dessert consisted of a “Double- boiled pear flavoured with Osmanthus tea”. Even the dessert was accompanied with Osmanthus tea. The pear is a fruit considered of high esteem in Cantonese cuisine. Chef explained that this particular dish can be made according to the guests’ requirements. For example though normally the insides of the pear are taken out before the pear is served to the guests, however if the guests wish to have the pear to be filled with some other fruit then this can be arranged as well. It’s all part of the culinary experience offered at the Lai Heen. The pear is firstly boiled for almost 2 hours in the Osmanthus tea at a sustained temperature, and then served. The end result is that the guest is treated to a sweet, delicious and soft pear. A walk around the back of the restaurant to experience the true sights and smells would bring along a perfect ending to a meal at the Lai Heen. Prices start from 1180RMB per person plus 15% service charge (standard charge in China) Book 3 days in advance to avoid disappointment Both Singapore and Hong Kong are tiny, densely populated , and yet so much full of life; Both of these cities are only three hours away from each by flight time other; are well connected with at least 25 daily flights each way; are home to two of the best International airlines in the world, Cathay Pacific Airways, and Singapore International Airlines; are chosen by many Multinationals as the Headquarters for their Asia Pacific Region operations; and both cities are the financial hubs for many banks and equity firms in the Asia Pacific Region.
For any new western business start up or any business leader, the question is almost always, will it be Singapore or Hong Kong? (Of course, the other major option people have is to set up in mainland China or in Hong Kong- but we'll discuss that some other time!). I personally believe, and I still stand to this point, that Singapore is somewhat like an “Asia for dummies”. My experience of living and working in both of these Asian cities as an expat has provided me with a privileged insight into their culture, lifestyle and general nature of doing business or travelling in these cities. Both are unique in their own ways. Hong Kong, with an area of around 1,105 km2 and a population of around 8 million, goes by the slogan "Asia's World City" because of its diverse mix cultures from all around the world. While Singapore, with an area of only 710.2 sq km and a population just under 5 million is equally diverse in terms of cultures, but more concentrated towards Asian cultures (Especially India, China and Malaysia). There are some people who may argue that it is indeed Singapore which should hold the title of "Asia's World City" because of its rich combination of Indian, Chinese and Malay population living side-by-side in harmony with each other. This argument is understandable when one observes that in Hong Kong you won't get a national holiday for Diwali (Hindu festival), Hari Raya (Islamic Festival), or even Vesak Day (Buddhist Festival); but in Singapore you will. I personally believe, and I still stand to this point, that Singapore is somewhat like an “Asia for dummies”. This is not a criticism about the country but rather an observation. Let me explain: If someone is flying from Europe to, say as an example, Australia or New Zealand, they are more than likely to stop over in either Hong Kong or Singapore (not discounting other Asian destinations of course). Now say that person has never been to other parts of Asia, and if Singapore is their first destination in Asia, they will get to experience some of the places of interests in Singapore, such as Little India, Arab Street and China Town (all of which have the strong ambiance of their respective cultures…so when you are in Little India- it actually feels as if you are in India and not Singapore, and so on). So it will give the visitors a taste of Asian cultures and cities. Singapore (or Singaporeans in general) actually thinks of itself as an island of modernity in a backward part of Asia. This may be true, but it is one of the most modern cities in Asia, and one of the fastest transformations that happened from being a developing country to a developed country all within a space of around 40 years. There are number of things which single out Singapore from Hong Kong. Singapore is one of the cleanest countries in the world (Chewing gum, smoking, spitting and shouting loudly are just some of the “habits” that are illegal in public places), plus the air is so much cleaner than in Hong Kong (sorry Hong Kongers…its true); its modern and its multi-cultural ambiance where, as an example, Malays happily celebrate Chinese and Indian festivals; and vice-versa. So if you ever want to experience true racial harmony, Singapore is the place for you! Equally well, there are a number of things which single out Hong Kong from Singapore, such as its vibrant fast pace and strong fusion of Chinese (Cantonese) and English cultures that you won’t see anywhere else in the world. Singapore's strong Chinese culture speaks Mandarin (like elsewhere in the world) with a Hokkien dialect (Fújiànhuà), unlike in Hong Kong where Cantonese is the primary language. If I was to pick out something unique about Hong Kong, it would most certainly be that Hong Kong seems to have an edge for the manufacturing industry because of its close proximity to China. Most foreign business persons also find the advantage of living in the “International” environment of Hong Kong while having their manufacturing base in Mainland China. There are a number of companies which have moved to Singapore because they see it being cheaper than Hong Kong, but the harsh reality is that Singapore is not a large country, so space is a big problem. On the whole both Singapore and Hong Kong are beautiful, diverse, full of rich culture, and energetic. If it came to a personal choice, I would say that Hong Kong is a great city to visit, do business in and explore; but it would be Singapore that I would choose to live in. This is because of two reasons: Less Pollution in Singapore (you are bound to see a clear blue sky in Singapore around 80% of the year according to my personal experience, but in Hong Kong that figure may be like 40% of the year); and Singapore is slightly cheaper than Hong Kong in terms of the cost of living. It comes down to personal choice. In terms of tourism, both Singapore and Hong Kong are incredibly great, and can easily be explored within three to four days (maybe a little longer for Hong Kong). I still miss those days when I used to commute on business between Singapore and Hong Kong on a regular basis. If there was a direct comparison between the two cities to those in the west, I would say that Singapore would the Los Angeles, while Hong Kong would resemble Manhattan, New York. Since 2008 Singapore has been one of the newest venues for the FORMULA 1, with the “SingTel Singapore Grand Prix” being heldat the new Marina Bay Street Circuit, and was also the first night-time event in Formula One history. It would be great fun to see if Hong Kong can also host the Formula 1 championship race. Punters would get the best of both cities. :-) One of the delightful points of a life on the road are the people who are regular touchstones with normality. Yet there is nothing 'normal' about Lonnie Hodge, who is an accomplished university professor, international educationalist, poet, former Vietnam Veteran - because he's extraordinary. Impeccable manners and always polite, Lonnie is someone who has time for his friends and colleagues no matter where they are, and what time it may be across the seas.
More importantly, the beauty of having Lonnie provide media consulting, especially when it comes to China, at a high level is the ownership and care that he takes with every aspect that he not only owns, but could have the slightest impact on. Apart from being a jack of all trades (and a master of all too), the most impressive aspect of Lonnie's personality is that he is very understanding and is someone you can highly trust for his sheer integrity and professionalism in all that he does. His enthusiasm for education and thought, and look of happy amazement whether he gives a TEDx speech or conducts a pub quiz, has endeared him to fans the world over. |
Get in Touch:LIFE MATTERSHere I share my thoughts
and experiences during my travels, and how some things have affected my life as an expat and world traveller. Travelling is about capturing that moment in life. Every word, view and opinion on this page is that of Navjot Singh - except where indicated. The most recent is at the top. Scroll down to read the archive. Or search using CTRL+F (COMMAND + F) and enter a keyword to search the page. Just some of the stories you never heard before. The NAVJOT-SINGH.COM web blog is separate to this web site....Click blog, which may not be visible in some countries due to local firewall restrictions, so in those cases this weblog may be read. The weblog also includes some of my press trip reports- most of which are not published on the official blog because of copyright issues. The weblog also contains articles that may be associated directly with a PR trip for a country, airline or a hotel. These are PR reviews done in relations with various companies. If you are an investor or a trend watcher then you may find this website useful as investing has a lot to do with personal observations and finding the ideal trend or next big thing. The average human on the street frequently knows far more about the state of the economy than politicians, university professors, subject matter experts, and financial analysts who seldom travel, or if they do so, only from one hotel to another hotel! The pulse and vibrancy of an economy is nowhere more visible than on a country's streets. All photos and words are © Navjot Singh unless stated. Photos taken by others or by agencies are appropriately copyrighted under the respective name. No photo or word/s may be taken without the prior written permission by the author (i.e. Navjot Singh). All Rights Reserved. Archives
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