One of the key advantages for expats living in Shenzhen is that you can hop across the border to Hong Kong for a day's trip or two. Back in 2003 when I first arrived in China, crossing the border into Hong Kong from Shenzhen (and vice-versa) was a somewhat long, and tiring journey. The only two border crossings in those days were at Lowu and the limited ferry service from Shekou port in the west of the city. For expats living in Shenzhen (and in Guangzhou, Dongguan, Zhongshan, and Zhuhai), it's like a mini-holiday and a treat to get away from the hustle & bustle of daily life here. While crossing the border can be an excruciating experience at peak times, thankfully there are two more options to cross the border that can make it a slightly less tiresome experience (Huanggang, and Nanhai are the two extra border ports). I am sure there are plenty of border crossings around the world where the cultural differences are so extreme and far-fetched, yet they are so close together geographically. The Hong Kong-Shenzhen border is no exception (as is the same with the Macau-Zhuhai border). One of the main differences is that Hong Kong still feels more international and Westernized compared to Shenzhen- though the gap between the two is closing in as mainland China's economy is booming compared to the former British colony. In Hong Kong it's still common to come across some expats (mostly British obviously) who have not gone back to the UK after the handover to the Chinese in 1997, and consider Hong Kong to be their only home. Another striking difference that one can see if that Hong Kong feels more Chinese now (and quite rightly it should do in my opinion) than before. There are a large numbers of mainland Chinese people in Hong Kong, and this is causing a few frictions in that some Cantonese people are not accepting the fact that Hong Kong is not British anymore (it's true). I can feel a STRONG sense of xenophobia by Hong Kong natives towards their mainland countrymen and women. I have seen quite a lot of comments on various western social websites of HKG people (of all races) complaining about foreigners in general (of all races and nationalities). One particular specimen wrote: 'I miss the HK I grew up in...sigh!'. A trans-cultural British-Born-Chinese friend of mine told me that he agrees that its time for the Chinese to rethink their plans for Hong Kong. However this is no time for nostalgia, because trends come and go here just like in every major city around the world (London is no exception, and I am seeing this xenophobic behavior in Shanghai as well against the large number of foreigners that are coming to experience the 'China Dream'). One friend went on to say that 'Hong Kong people are a rare breed in this Chinese world when Hong Kong people are being displaced themselves'. He is, of course, referring to local Hong Kong people being made a minority. Mainlanders are sadly discriminated against in Hong Kong, just like the Filipinos, Indonesians, and the Thai people are. From my own experience I could say that the Filipinos are so used to lying all the time, and it gives them a bad impression in the eyes of others- its ridiculous. This is partly due to culture and their bad government. They are a people who have gone through some very hard times in their country's history, and they rely on other countries. However on a good note this is changing for the best. Without being stereo-typically negative, the reality is that in places such as Hong Kong (and Dubai, Singapore among others), sadly most of the Filipinos have been known to be sex workers, house maids, selling services, ripping money off tourists, and finding a western boyfriend (go to Wanchai and you'll see). For a native Cantonese Hong Kong person to make many Filipino friends in Hong Kong is unheard of because of the terrible negative perception that they are domestic/sex workers and will be treated as such by society (read THIS for more on racism in HKG- my viewpoints). However, from my perspective Hong Kong people somehow have to work with their Mainland cousins, and not against them to build something that works with both Hong Kong and China. But on the other hand, it's just ridiculous how the 'one-country two systems' scheme works. For example, just around thirty miles outside of central Hong Kong, and in the mainland, the relationships are fine without any problems. Hong Kong residents and Mainlanders along the border have fought in recent years over hospital beds, baby milk formula, and even the shortage of school places. The question here is, would these tensions and problems of divide have happened if the British were not in Hong Kong? Maybe. It's difficult to say. However, in my opinion (and I am stand to correction...not an oak here!), the queen and mistress of all of these problems could lie with the legacy that the British left behind. Historically speaking, the British (as well as the French, and perhaps the Spanish too), have maintained a rule and divide mentality wherever they have colonized globally, and in Hong Kong it is no different. However, the fact is that Hong Kong is not the same anymore. If there's any city that changed radically since 1997, then it's Hong Kong. Because of the high numbers of rich mainland Chinese people coming to live and work (and shop!), the cost of living in Hong Kong has increased too. This is having both good and bad effects for the economy. You can read about the immigration of Hong Kong people who moved to Canada and Britain after 1997 and then moved back as returnees and you'll realize why there was an influx of mainland Chinese students to exclusive private schools and universities in the UK (Dulwich College, Oxford, Cambridge, Eton, and Harrow for example all saw a surge of mainland Chinese students- before 1997 it was mostly Hong Kong Cantonese students). Most of those graduates are now Doctors, Engineers, Pilots, and so on, and working in the U.K. and U.S.A. for example. A large percentage of residents were from China originally to escape for various unmentionable reasons in 50's to 70's. I've seen loads of changes after 1997, booms and bust, changes mainly because of the mainland. There is more alignment with China now and less with western countries. Yes, original residents miss the old days, but times have change and we should move with it being well informed. Hong Kong has had an identity crisis, its visible on some Hong Kong people, its like the lost generation dealing with constant turmoils. But it's perhaps not as bad as London (but, hey, that's a discussion for another article :-)). On that note, I have an experience to share. Later on in the day, I was walking through Kowloon Park with a British-Chinese friend of mine. The park was full with tourists, as well as large numbers of locals. As we made our way, a scruffy looking beggar approached me, and then started shouting abuse loudly. The stench from the man was not pleasant, and with the heat and humidity it made it worse. I decided not to take a photo out of respect. I turned to my friend and asked him why the beggar was shouting at me. 'He (the beggar) says he hates you because you are a foreigner' explained my friend, and then he went onto say 'he probably ended up in that situation in the first place because of bad experience with gweilos (Cantonese derogatory word for 'foreigners)'. Perhaps I was unlucky to come across such a situation, or perhaps it was a message. The remarkable thing was that just moments before this beggar shouted abuse at me, we were talking about this exact issue. Some people don't see it as a political thing, they believe that people are just doing what you'd expect of them. It's true that Hong Kong might occupy some abandoned premises near the border - and that there is no shortage of teachers, just schools (in regards to the school placement friction). The Hong Kong education dept is not very responsive to news and awaits some senior chap proposing action which seldom happens unless someone at the very top of government pushes them. They tend to see themselves as administrators not originators of policy. It might be a hangover from colonial times. Administrative officers used to get almost carte blanche in their initiatives and devised all sorts of new programmes, some good some bad but all well intentioned. That does not happen anymore. In the meantime, I have to say that it's always a nice feeling to come back to Shenzhen after a long day of burning your plates of meat (i.e. feet) on the steep and tiny roads of Hong Kong. There is no better way to cool down your heels than having a chilled bottle of the locally brewed 'Kingway Beer' at the Horizon Club Lounge at The Shangri-La, Shenzhen- then bask in the sights of the city which is spearheading China’s incredible growth. Panamie is a hidden gem in Shenzhen's Nanshan district, close to Gui Mao Lu Kuo (opposite Shenzhen University). Having lived in China for many years, from my own experience I can tell you that the quality of the bread and cakes found at the majority of cake shops here is not the same as you would expect in the West. The lack of high quality baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate), and yeast makes the cakes taste soggy, feel spongy and too soft, and not rich enough in fiber. You can feel that the texture is not good enough for the Western tongue- it's almost as if the bread melts as you eat it instead of being able to enjoy every bite slowly.
For good quality cakes and pastries one may have to go to a 5-star hotel or your nearest Starbucks (even there the quality of the food differs to that what you may get in, say, Hong Kong). In my experience, the cakes made by Panamie are some of the best, simply because of the high quality of imported ingredients that the owner uses. The bakery is a popular beehive for the local expat community, including many who work as Pilots and Engineers for Shenzhen Airlines, and China Southern Airlines. Every evening, all over mainland China, it is common to come across a group of people (usually from the same neighborhood, and usually middle aged housewives), dancing in rhythm to various kinds of music in parks (or in any open air space, as shown by the photo above). This is, in part to keep themselves fit, but also as a kind of social networking to while away their evenings. Don't be so shocked if you come across a group of couples dancing in a park to tunes such as 'Breathless by the Corrs', or something similar (Celine Dion, Dido, Kenny G, Justin Bieber, and the Spice Girls are all very popular in mainland China!). In contrast, the majority of Chinese senior citizens practice T'ai Chi every morning and evening.
You can bet your bottom dollar that there are plenty of Chinese housewives who are up for giving Justin Bieber a run for his money. In China, when a guest comes to someones home/office etc., the host offers fresh water (usually boiled/warm). It's an honorable thing to do to make them feel welcome on YOUR grounds. Since it is so important in this culture, every house has a water tank which can be refilled. I was quite surprised to see this water refill machine in a small deprived shanty town on the outskirts of Shenzhen- not a place you'd expect something like this to be placed in. It's not expensive though. For 1 RMB (about US 20 Cents) you can fill one tank (about 2 gallons).
Have you just arrived in Shenzhen? If you are looking for a great location that is in Mainland China, however one that is just 30 minutes by the Hong Kong MTR to central Hong Kong then you can’t get any better than the modern Shangri-La, Shenzhen located right at the border crossing. With scrumptious food (both Western and local), a fully-equipped health club, an outdoor swimming pool, and a fully equipped modern gym that includes a Jacuzzi, sauna, and steam rooms, the Shangri-La Shenzhen offers the best personalised service for even the most demanding of customers.
Each of the hotel’s 522 elegant guestrooms and suites come well equipped with all the creature comforts, and essentials of life. These include, but not limited to, complimentary broadband internet access, IDD telephone and voice mail, 24-hour in room dining for the jet lagged of us, and complimentary luxury bathroom toiletries by L'Occitane. Each room proudly presents a copy of ’Lost Horizon’ by James Hilton, the book which inspired the Shangri-La legend and the book that gave way to the hotel’s existence. Having been a resident of Shenzhen for many years, for me it has been a sheer pleasure to witness the rapid growth of this city. The Shangri-La hotel in Shenzhen was one of the first Western 5-star hotels established in the city in 1992, and it’s prime location next to the border crossing and the main train station suited many business and pleasure travellers who were coming over from Hong Kong to continue their journey inwards towards other parts of Guangdong Province. Splendid views of Hong Kong’s Northern Territories, as well as the skyline of Shenzhen’s Luohu district, the most happening place in the city, can be seen from the Horizon Club Lounge (exclusively for Horizon Club members), or from the 360 degree bar, restaurant, and lounge located at the 32nd floor. Back in the 1990s- before China’s rapid economic boom began - The Shangri-La Shenzhen had its head and shoulders held high in the city and it was renowned as the place for luxury and gatherings for A-Listers. However, as time has gone by, the hospitality industry in Shenzhen has become highly competitive with numerous internationally 5-star hotels springing up in the Futian and Luohu districts. One thing is for sure, that The Shangri-La Shenzhen will always be the hotel that everyone remembers as being one of the first and finest luxury accommodations in Shenzhen. The hotel continues to dominate the skyline around the border crossing, and is still a focal point for many to meet at. In an effort to curb the high levels of pollution caused by the increasing number of vehicles on Chinese roads, one city in China has started experimenting with an eco-friendly taxi that runs on electricity.
Since the beginning of this year, Shenzhen has begun integrating electric vehicles into its public transport with the recent commercial introduction of local auto-maker BYD’s vehicles appearing on the city streets. Named the E6, the vehicle offers enough space for five passengers and has a range of some 160 kilometers. It's quiet, and relatively cheaper to operate (saves around RMB 3 of fuel surcharge). Painted in distinctive blue and white waves running across the vehicle, these taxis cost more or less the same as a conventional fuel run taxi. It also proudly says 'Zero Emission' on the back- not sure if that is to make other drivers become envious. However, they are more friendlier to the environment and may just be the answer that countries like China need to curb the rising number of vehicles on their congested roads. The west could also benefit from such schemes. As I always say- the crumbling Western economies need to learn from the East. Visionary and ambitious plans by the local government are in place to to convert all of Shenzhen’s public vehicular transport to electric – including buses and all taxis – over the next five years. If you are looking for some of the best Japanese food in Shenzhen, then head down to Nanshan where there is a tiny lane that contains some of the finest Japanese food and service around town.
Neatly hidden behind the Holiday Inn Donghua in Nanshan (on Nan Hai Da Dao, and opposite Shenzhen Book City, and close to Shenzhen Coastal City- 南山区 海岸城), this quiet lane provides a few restaurants where you can experience authentic Japanese cuisine at its best (complete with strong sake!). Frequent heavy rain and thunderstorms are common at this time of the year in China's Guangdong Province, with an average annual rainfall of around 41mm according to the preliminary statistics. The weather is such that in the late spring and summer months, the weather changes rapidly throughout the day. So for example, at one point during the day you may experience very hot, sunny, and humid conditions, while in the next minute suddenly you may get heavy downpours with thunderstorms (which itself can be a welcome change from the hot and humid conditions). And unlike in some other parts of the world, such as in the United Kingdom for example where public transport and life comes to a halt at the drop of a snow flake, life in China goes on as normal. The west needs to learn from the east! The dramatic change of the weather at such quick pace is one of the reasons why Guangdong Province is uniquely known as the province of umbrellas. The impact of the umbrella is so powerful here (and especially in the provincial capital city Guangzhou) that companies use umbrellas as a way of brand advertising because they know that everyone carries them around all the time, whether it is during rain or sunshine. Indeed, it can be a very powerful PR tool to use. Being back in the cosy warmer surroundings of Guangdong Province presents a sense of relief. Though the weather is cooler, it is no way as punishing and cold as Beijing or Shanghai at this time of the year. After arriving in Guangzhou from Beijing, I headed straight to Shenzhen for a small project. I could have flown straight to Shenzhen, but I flew on the China Southern Airlines Airbus A380 to do a project for them so I had to fly to Guangzhou first (Shenzhen is around one hours train ride from Guangzhou). The city of Shenzhen borders Hong Kong, and is a fine example of how rapidly the Chinese economy has grown over the past 30 odd years (and even more so since 2004). Newcomers to the city will probably think that they are still in Hong Kong, considering all the high rise glass and luxurious hotels that have spurted out of the ground. Ever since the early 1980s when the late Deng Xiao Ping established Shenzhen as a Special Economic Zone (SEZ), the city has continuously attracted a vast amount of Foreign Direct Investment (FDI)- far more than any other city in this country. Before the 1980s, Shenzhen was a hamlet filled with hundreds upon hundreds of rice farms, and fish farms. Those fish and rice farms have been replaced by the Shennan East Expressway which is choked with Ferraris' and Maseratis'. Then there are the grand hotel such as The Ritz-Carlton, The Grand Hyatt, and recently the St Regis Shenzhen (the tallest hotel in Shenzhen), and so on so forth etc. The only evidence of any kind of rice and fish farms are those that are situated across the border in Hong Kong's Northern Territories. At least that part of this area still looks no different to what Shenzhen looked like before the 1980s, and its a stark reminder of how times have changed here. The sons and daughters of those farmers become overnight millionaires (some even billionaires , and are now enjoying the benefit of shopping at the likes of the Coastal City Mall, or in Shekou. They have lavish properties in places such as the Overseas Chinese Town (OCT), or near Shenzhen Bay. I used to live in Lian Tang in Luohu District in 2004-2005, and today I can hardly recognise the place. Just like the rest of the largest cities of China, the place has become westernised. The city houses the headquarters of China's many electronic and telecoms companies such as ZTE, Huawei, Haier, Konka, Mizuda, Mindray, and many others. Many of these companies are hiring foreign executives, some of whom worked on the board of many fortune 500 corporations. Shenzhen Airlines, the locally based airline, is in the process of recruiting foreign pilots too. Back in the hectic Huaqiangbei and Dongmen areas (two major shopping streets in Shenzhen), it is common to come across foreign business persons trying to make deals on bulk orders on Chinese made products (mostly electronic parts), that they can take back to their home countries and sell at a higher price. Many of these entrepreneurs come from the African Continent, Middle East, and South America. There are pockets of South-East Asians too. The thing that continues to amaze me is that Shenzhen is so close to Hong Kong, and yet the differences are so varied. I am sure there are people on each side of the border who don't have any experience of what is life on the other side (that's probably the sad part of the Shenzhen story). While people on the fish and rice farms on the Hong Kong side must be wondering what on earth has happened to the fish farms on the Chinese side, and all they could see is building upon building growing out of the ground every other day. Indeed, the skyline of Shenzhen is changing at a dizzying pace, and probably will continue to do so for many years to come. With such stunning views of the southern Chinese city of Shenzhen, it almost impossible not to think of how beautiful life can be at over 1,300 feet while sipping a fine glass of Riscal Roble 2008 and tucking into your pumpkin and cheese soup. But then again, this is not your average restaurant, but one that deserves more attention that it gets. Located at the 99th floor of the St Regis Shenzhen hotel, the Elba serves fine Mediterranean cuisine with a view to please even the most gastronomically challenged.
Since the St Regis Shenzhen opened in December 2011, Elba has become a popular hotspot for Shenzhen’s business yuppies, and the increasingly newly found rich who want to do nothing more than show off. The ambiance may not be too lavish; however all of those changes the moment the flavours of the colourful dishes start to dance your tongue. Elba is definitely big, bold and brash, however it did come across that the pedestrian cooking was a letdown, especially for a high end eatery that wants to prove itself among the bustling completion in town. Basically if I was a diner here I would want to be pampered right from the moment of my first spoonful to the last. To be frank Elba is the kind of place only its mother could really love. It's like a late adolescent who's just discovered fashion and luxury lifestyle. It's loud and brash and pleased with itself. Location is fantastic, but the interior quality of the food lacks the glamour that it works so hard to get across. The wine list is strong and has some first-class choices at astoundingly low prices. I also ate some pleasing things from the long menu, which roams from raw bar to hot kitchen to something called "wood stone.” If you are in a rush then opt for the lunch business set meal, which includes a starter, main dish and a dessert. Some of the fine choices for the set lunch menu include battered cod fish, or pumpkin and clam chowder. Service was ‘okay’, but somehow dysfunctional. It took two requests to get them to stop attempting to fill my wine and water glass. Whether the fact that I was dining with the hotel manager made them nervous, I have to have give them the benefit of the doubt on that one. One thing I will say though is that good authentic Italian cuisine is very hard to find in China. However, if you want to taste a bit of Italy before you get there, then try Elba. Hey there may be better Italian restaurants in the whole of China, however for the time being Elba does a superb job in being one of the best in Shenzhen. For a city that is technically only around 35 years old, Shenzhen in south-east China has experienced a rapid economic and cultural change in such a short space of time that most global cities would not be able to enjoy. These days it is a case of every global brand wanting to have their fair share of the piece of land in this tiny city, which borders Hong Kong.
When I arrived in Shenzhen back in 2003, the tallest building in those days was the Diwang building. When it was first built the Diwang building at 384 meters high was a stunning piece of architecture offering the best views in the city and the best office space. It was a sign of sheer prestige for the city and its people. The funny thing is that I have never had the chance to go up the Diwang building simply because I never had the time, and I did not really realise that the city would be so beautiful from up there. So then, to my delight, in September 2011, a building even taller than the Diwang building opened its doors to the public. Standing at 441.8 meters and with 100 floors, the Kingkey 100 building, designed by the architect Sir Terry Farrell, is the tallest building in Shenzhen. While the bottom part of the building houses offices, the top 28 floors from the 73rd to the 100th floor occupy the glorious five-star St Regis Hotel, Shenzhen. It’s quite befitting that the tallest building and hotel in Shenzhen is located right next to the famous Deng Xiao Ping portrait on Shennan Road. Indeed, this was the place where the great man declared his legacy in 1979 that the city should be opened a Special Economic Zone (SEZ), and it’s somewhat a sign of the city’s prosperity. Opened in December 2011 and located right at the epicentre of the most happening place in the city, the centre of the Caiwuwei financial district, the St. Regis Shenzhen offers a lovely blend of stunning views of Shenzhen, superb in-room modern facilities and a heaven for the gastronomic senses. Then there is the unique glamorous touch that makes the St Regis stand out from the rest- the matchless St Regis Butler Service. It’s a signature trademark of the hotel brand that makes every guest feel extra special, and it’s utterly unique to Shenzhen. Trained in the English tradition to provide ever-present, yet unobtrusive round the clock service, the St. Regis Butler sets the stage for an experience that provides a very personalised service, no matter how great or small, at any hour of the day and night. So it may be that you would like to have your cup of hot chocolate before going to sleep, or have your shirt ironed, or you may need assistance with packing up your bags whilst you are busy doing something else. Whatever your needs, you can be reassured that your dedicated St Regis Butler will be there to help you. With its 290 elegantly appointed guest rooms and suites, the St Regis Shenzhen is actually not as enormous as one would imagine it to be. The illusion is that it is located in a tall tower so people assume that it’s a massive property. The demand for a luxury service from the local Chinese is so much that there is even a waiting list in place for the hotel’s highly sought after Afternoon Tea service at the Social restaurant on the 95th floor. That’s also where you’re most likely to find the hotel’s Food & Beverage director, JW Yap, showing off his magic with the champagne pouring ceremony before the dinner service. An interesting yet revolutionising part of this is that hardly any of the people dining for Afternoon Tea are British as one would imagine, but are mostly young Chinese. It’s another symbol of the cultural change that cities such as Shenzhen, and indeed the whole of China are going through. The exceedingly rich are being exposed to the glitz and the glamour, and they have the money to flourish it onto. The St Regis Shenzhen is definitely the place to be at and be seen at. Be prepared to be spoiled right from the moment you check-in. Where else do you need to be at when you are surrounded by creature comforts such as amenities by Remede Laboratoire, 3 complimentary clothes ironed for those staying in the suites, 3D Cinema sound in room, 9 different types of pillow from ‘Pillow Menu’,; and not to mention the exclusive St Regis turndown service that includes chocolates by Ritter. Now if that’s not enough then check out the 3 kinds of breakfast you can eat at either the Social, or in the comfort of your bed in the sky. Then there are the 35 international newspapers available from 21 countries including Greece (Kathimerini), Norway (Dagbladet) and others. The highlight of the exquisitely styled rooms and suites, all of which are ranging in size from 40 to 325 square meters, is the in-room fully customised iPad2 that allows you to control and manage every aspect of your room’s functionalities. The iPad2 comes in handy when you could be sitting in your bed, or whiling away in the Jacuzzi, or just about to order your in-room meal. With its touch screen iPad2 allows you to control things such as the curtains, the levels of the mood lighting, and music of the room, the temperature, the TV channel, and even if you want to call your personal Butler to the room. On top of this, the iPad2 is the interface for the St. Regis ISTV, a personalized set of television channels with important information such as local maps and attractions, express check-out, PC games, or to set up morning calls or housekeeping service. ISTV also provides guests with personal computer functionality. Using a personal laptop or tablet as a keyboard, ISTV converts the television into a large monitor or speakers. ISTV can process software like Word, Excel and Powerpoint, and facilitate printing and faxing through the hotel’s network. It’s simple yet amazingly incredible and can make your stay give the essential ‘Wow!’ factor. I honestly wish they had this hotel here way back in 2004 when I first arrived in Shenzhen. It’s not only the peace and tranquil surroundings but the absolute convenience of staying close to Hong Kong that would appeal to anyone looking for a respite away from the city’s hustle & bustle. It’s very convenient that you can have breakfast in the morning at the hotel, and then perhaps go for a shopping trip across the border to Hong Kong for a day, and then come back to cool down the heels in the evening at the Decanter bar on the 100th floor. The sky-high urban wine bar offers one of Shenzhen's largest selections of wines alongside impressive views and a private Butler (of course, you wouldn't expect less, would you?). This hotel is an incomparable, inspiring place and a home away from home. Sip a glass of fine Riscal Roble 2008, and admire the beauty of the future of the centre of the world from the 100th floor. When it comes to food, you can be reassured that despite Shenzhen’s rather uncanny approach to internationalism and despite there being no Michelin star restaurant in this city, the St Regis Shenzhen does attempt at providing one of the best international dishes in the market. Had they arrived here a few years then it would have been all hunky dory, however with the growing competition from other 5-star eateries, the chefs at this splendid hotel located in an upmarket part of the city are doing everything they can to showcase the best. Try the Elba on the 99th floor offering authentic Mediterranean cuisine with romantic interior décor. Whatever you do, just feel fortunate, and don’t forget to make the most of your time in the sky over Shenzhen- I know I did. _There are not that many places in the southern Chinese city of Shenzhen where you can just be spoiled to a lavish feast and feel like an Emperor (or an Empress), except at China Lodge at the Grand Hyatt hotel in Shenzhen. Providing some of the finest views across to the whole of Lowu district, Shenzhen’s most happening place, China Lodge is a place to be if you want some privacy, intimacy and some luxurious food that brings the best of Cantonese, Chinese, and Western cultural fusions altogether on one table. When you consider the amount of massive space dedicated to each of the 14 luxurious private dining suites on the 35th and 36th floors of the hotel, you realise that this is not just a restaurant but a Mecca for serious eating. Allow the local boy, Chef Scott Xu, a native of Guangdong Province, to show off his innovation gastronomic skills. Chef Xu is someone who happens to possess some intuitive abilities when he is presented a few ingredients, and some kitchen tools. Maybe he wants to prove how good he is, but for sure, you’ll be left with a jaw dropping dining experience. With so much competition lurking around in China these days, the rush to be one of the best designers of a perfect dining plate is on in one of the world’s fastest economies. There is certainly no shortage of a beautiful presentation when it comes to good food.
Yes, it is costly, but then again you do exactly get what you pay for (maybe more). The key is that China Lodge prides itself in using one of the best ingredients, and the best cutlery to present it in- there are no real boundaries for diners in terms of showing off to their invitees. Each of the 14 suites accommodates anything upto 20 diners with guaranteed spectacular views from every suite. Each suite comes along with butler service, an en-suite toilet, a large television, and access to the internet. Some may even go as far as thinking that if you want to show off how much wealth you possess, or perhaps you want to treat your close ones to a truly 5-star dining experience for a special occasion, then China Lodge is the place. Though purely a Cantonese style restaurant based on a native Cantonese concept, however the dishes created by Chef Xu contain a delightful fusion of Eastern and Western tastes. Take for example one of the starters such as the ‘goose liver, wok-fried with shelled shrimps, and chive flower’; or the ‘suckling pig cum in plum sauce’. For those of you that don’t know, suckling pig is a very traditional must have Cantonese delicacy dish where the skin of the pig should be crisp and the meat should be just perfectly tender for the tongue. With this particular dish Chef Xu has turned that traditional dish into a Western style concept by wrapping the suckling pig into a sushi style roll (but wrapped with lettuce and not seaweed!), and then decorated it with a sprinkle of plum sauce. It’s the same concept that goes well with the ‘goose liver dish’. The way you are meant to eat it is to put a spoonful of the ingredients (that’s the complete mixture of the shrimps, chive flower and goose liver), into a iceberg lettuce leaf. With each mouthful, that crunchiness texture should include a blending of all the flavours and juices of the goose liver and the shrimps. Both the goose liver and the shrimps are traditional Cantonese fare, however it’s the style of putting everything into one leaf that makes it a Western style dish, but in Shenzhen! Some other specialities include ’king eel, steamed, with rice wine sauce’, and ‘whole tomato, braised, and mixed with cereal crops’. The king eel is special because the eel is fed with coconut flakes whilst in the farm, so the end result of the texture and taste of the meat has a lovely soft yet milky flavour to it. But wait till you try the bright red tomato filled with cereal crops. This hot dish is fabulously attractive from the inside, just as it is attractive from the outside. The brightly red boiled tomato (no colour preservatives) contains an extravaganza of cereal crops. Very healthy, and ‘out of this world’ delicious would be the words that conjure up once one takes a spoonful. All the dishes take into consideration various health issues that diners may have, and a personalised menu can be provided upon request to the individual dinar. Even the desert is not as heavy as one may imagine. Take the Mango pudding for example, which contains freshly cut mangos surrounded in a freshly squeezed mango sauce. Just scrumptious. So get ready to be amazed, and enjoy a truly magical experience whilst sitting on top of China’s Prices for a set menu start from around 700RMB (approx. £70) per person. If the award-winning Sheraton Shenzhen Futian portrays a sense of excellence in architecture, then you not be too far off the mark here. With 354 well-appointed guest rooms and suites, the Sheraton Shenzhen Futian stands proud and tall in the middle of Shenzhen’s Central Business District (CBD). The hotel forms one quarter of the distinctive black building with white stripes running down vertically. It’s rather designed to look like a large waterfall (or a fountain) in a Chinese painting, and its enormous size actually consists of 4 various buildings inside it, one of which is the Sheraton Shenzhen Futian. In fact, the moment you enter the hotel, you may be greeted by a Filipino band (as is the norm in hotels in China), playing some well-known tunes from around the world.
The good thing about the hotel is that it’s directly accessible to Shenzhen’s Metro system, which connects to the Hong Kong border and Shenzhen’s major shopping, sightseeing, and business districts. Perfect for business or pleasure, especially for all those tradesmen visiting Shenzhen everyday, its Just 45 minutes from Shenzhen Bao’an International Airport (though give or take 1 hour for the famous Shenzhen traffic!). All guest rooms are furnished with signature Sheraton sweet sleeper™ beds, and high-speed internet access. The Sheraton Club at the 24th floor offers the discriminating traveller unparalleled services and facilities including complimentary usage of the internet, and various refreshments and cocktails throughout the day. Those staying at the Club Level floor can enjoy eating breakfast in quite surroundings with a beautiful view across to the CBD area of Shenzhen. In addition to this there are a further ten floors available exclusively for Starwood Preferred Guest members. In true Sheraton style, the creature comforts such as an iron, ironing table, plenty of drinking water, a safe big enough to house a laptop, and cable international television are all available in all the guestrooms. The guestrooms themselves are decorated in shades of a typical Sheraton room such as brownish and burgundy. The sweet smell of old oak flourishes amongst the furniture too. With a diverse range of stylish restaurants and trendy bars and lounges, you’ll find just the place to gather with friends or family to enjoy a great meal. It all seems a bit too grandular, but then again we are in China where even the smallest of hotels seems to live to the expectations of your well traveller businessperson. They do, on the whole, serve up Italian, Chinese, Southeast Asian, and Western specialities with equal flair. If you prefer buffet meals, then head to the Exchange on the ground floor where all kinds of edible fare are on offer to the stylish dinar. You may want to revitalize yourself at the state-of-the-art fitness centre that features an optimally equipped gymnasium, Jacuzzis, sauna and steam rooms, and swimming pool, as well as a variety of personal fitness programs. These fitness facilities are not actually branded under the Sheraton hotel name; however, they may be used by the hotel guests on a complimentary basis. One of the reasons why the Sheraton Shenzhen Futian has won numerous awards, including the ‘Best Business hotel in China in 2009, and 2010’ by the Business Traveller magazine, is because of its spacious 3,500 square meters of function MICE area. Then there is the attentive and personalized service that will turn an ordinary event into an extraordinary and memorable occasion. The MICE facilities at the hotel are really something to gape your eyes upon. For example, the great China ballroom is one of the largest pillarless Grand Ballrooms in Shenzhen, and because of facilities like this that’s why the hotel is highly popular with the MICE audience. The success was proven when the hotel won ‘The best meetings & conventions hotel in Shenzhen in 2010’ as awarded by TTG China Travel Award. Facing the famous Shenzhen Convention & Exhibition Center and opened only in 2009, the 282-room Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen is located in a prime spot of Shenzhen’s CBD area in Futian district. Effectively this is where the future of Shenzhen is to be found, and the Ritz-Carlton group could not have chosen a better site. The only thing that one may find confusing is that from the outside it just looks like a normal tall building with very little exterior design or architectural element added to it. In a nutshell, from the outside it looks exceedingly boring and not quite the posh hotel one may be looking for. It’s a shame that such a lovely well known high quality brand has not capitalized on using the finest of designs or architectural elements to make this building stick out like a sore thumb. However, once one steps inside then it’s another story altogether. Inside you’ll truly feel that this is the authentic Ritz-Carlton experience. As the hotel’s motto goes, it’s a true “Oasis of Luxury”, slap bang in the middle of China’s newest city.
Shenzhen is perhaps China’s fastest growing city both economically and demographically. Effectively you can go away for a week and once you return there is bound to be some dramatic change in either the skyline or the infrastructure. Way back in 2003 when I first arrived in Shenzhen nobody would probably have heard about the Ritz-Carlton brand, and if someone had told me that there is going to be a Ritz-Carlton hotel situated in Shenzhen in 2009, I would not have believed them because even though it seems like a short time span, but at that time it would be hard to imagine if anybody from Shenzhen would have been able to afford to stay at a brand such as the Ritz-Carlton,. But change of the rapid times and look what we have placed slap bang in the middle of Shenzhen’s CBD, a fascinating luxury 5-star hotel that outshines in every department possible. Another ideal mark about the Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen is that it’s located only around a 45-minute drive to Hong Kong airport, and around a 30-minute drive to Shenzhen airport. The first thing you notice is that this is a something special that has been bought to Shenzhen. All of the hotel’s 282 rooms and suites achieve new levels of luxury and sophistication. All the rooms are equipped with the latest technology, including a fully integrated TV and internet system, with video on demand, satellite television and high speed internet. For the most luxurious experience, why not pamper yourself in one of the suites where all the rooms offer a balcony that offers stunning views across Futian. The Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen is also a one-stop shop for living, working and chasing the essential pleasures of life. The rooms are all strongly Chinese in design and Feng Shui but also very much international at the same time; with lush furniture and pampering bedrooms adding marvellous indulgence to every unit. Perhaps you would like to have a look at the TV menu, which looks rather like an Emperor’s scroll, and hence will make you feel like an Emperor too. Luxury toiletries in the Club floor rooms and suites are provided by the well known Italian designer brand, Acqua Di Parma. There is a dedicated coffee machine as well that provides freshly brewed coffee by Nespresso. Now, that is sheer luxury to enjoy in a young and dynamic city such as Shenzhen. Tribute has to be given to the Swiss-born General Manager of the Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen, Mr. Iwan Dietschi who has done a tremendous job in training and coaching his staff on how a perfect luxury customer service should be provided to people in China. It’s a challenge to find the right quality of staff that fit the criteria of The Ritz-Carlton brand anywhere in the world, but even more so in an emerging market such as China. In China you can have the most luxurious brand in the world, but if the quality of the service and the customer service from the staff is not matchable to that brand name then it is quiet essentially a waste of time and money for the corporation. Mr. Dietschi, a native from Lausanne and who has worked in Ritz-Carlton hotels world-wide, has fought that challenge well. Examples of this are evident everywhere in the hotel from the cleaning staff right the way through to the check-in staff. Every staff member greets the customer before the customer greets the staff member, everyone speaks excellent quality of English where there are no misunderstandings between customers and staff, every staff member understands western culture and etiquette well, and the staff never forgets what the customer ordered, and these are some of the true hallmarks of a high quality service. Altogether there are seven dining options of which the Paletto (Italian cuisine) and the Xingli (Cantonese cuisine) restaurants are the jewels of The Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen when it comes to spoiling yourself to luxury food and wine. Both have a different flavour when it comes to the authentic environment that reflects the cuisine that they are serving, though both venues are romantic, peaceful yet laid in a contemporary setting. The lobby lounge is the place in Shenzhen for business deals to be made over a drink or two. People in the city are starting to realise that The Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen is the place to be and be seen at. The Xingli is a high quality restaurant located on the 4th level of The Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen that provides a true authentic Cantonese cuisine. Ever since it’s opening in 2009, the Xingli has become somewhat of a preferred place where business deals are made during lunch, or for team-building, or even for those who want to see and want to be seen in Shenzhen. A key addition of the restaurant is its 19 individual private rooms that cater to all the guest’s needs but is rather reserved for personal meals and business functions. The ambiance is one of peace, tranquillity and class. Quality is something that would touch anyone’s lips once they take their first bite.
Exceedingly opulent in its surroundings, the restaurant combines contemporary facilities with an elaborate classical invention and design that would please anyone’s eye. For family gatherings this would be the ideal place to relax, unwind and catch up on some gossip either for Chinese breakfast, lunch or dinner. The key of the Xingli is its beautiful presentation of around 100 items of dim sum, main courses, soups and desserts. If you want to divulge into the perfect Cantonese culinary experience at the Xingli, then try starting off with a chicken soup of assorted vegetables blended in two flavours. Even before you tuck your spoon into the soup; it’s the beautiful presentation of the dish that is more pleasing to the eye. You just wonder how the chef manages to get the two flavours separated in the bowl. Lovely colours of the green and white vegetables are neatly separated. Continuing with the concept of eating a healthy yet scrumptious meal for lunch (or dinner), it would be a wise decison to go for the fried broccoli with crab meat. The well cooked broccoli has a lush green colour, which indicates that it’s strongly fresh, and is provided with a generous layer of melting cheese. The crab meat is not as big in portions as one may imagine it to be because it is shaped into minute brightly orange coloured cubes that are kindly sprinkled onto the mouth-watering broccoli cuts. If that’s not enough to wake up your taste buds then tuck into the fabulously cooked pan-fried cod fish with honey sauce. It’s not easy to find cod fish in China, and so therefore The Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen is very fortunate enough to have imported this fish from overseas. The cod fish tastes fresh and the honey not only adds to the flavour but tends to give it a bit more of a glow to the skin of the fish. The Xingli can be described as an expert examination of a restaurant that strives to provide the upmost best quality in terms of authentic Cantonese cuisine. The Xingli has an almost obsessive reverence for its fabulous food and wine, lovingly presented for purposeful and practical use to share with like-minded individuals. Irrespective if you are residing at The Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen or not, it would be worthwhile to try out a few culinary delights at The Paletto, the hotel’s fine signature Italian restaurant. Located on the second floor of the hotel, The Paletto, with its 80-seats, focuses on providing a luxurious and attractive presentation and taste of authentic Italian food with a modern twist.
The Paletto is a restaurant that would make you go completely fanatical about Italian food. A wine cellar in a glass enclosure greets visitors upon arrival. While in the foyer there is a display of all things Italian food, such as cheese and wine. The overall lighting effect at the Paletto creates a romantic ambiance that would provide a wonderful evening for anyone wishing to stay away from the city’s sheer hustle and bustle but take life on the relaxed pace. It’s so good that you would want to return back again and again and perhaps even more so that you may end up eating there every day of the week. I really don’t know who I would ask to join me when I return back- I just wanted some of that roasted wagyu beef carpaccio in a beautiful cylinder shape with bread salad filling. The presentation is immaculate, especially when it’s joined with a caramelized red onion, garlic flavoured tuille and sweet bell pepper salad. This is work of genius by chef Massimo Miglietta who brings a wealth of over 20 years of international culinary experiences and an impressive portfolio as a celebrity chef (Miglietta has been a personal chef to Chelsea and England footballer Frank Lampard in the past). His culinary experiences extend to the finest of whos who in the gastromical circle as he is a protégé of the acclaimed 3 Michelin Stars Chef Marco Pierre White and worked in White’s prestigious establishments in London. If I were you, I would commence by crunching into the traditional Italian bread sticks and buns that are presented. Then, for your appetiser, pick something that would hit your taste buds immediately; pan fried foie gras, port wine. It would be a good suggestion to inquire the wine recommendations from restaurant manager, Michele Cantini. His recommendations of the wine, and his suave style of wine tasting, will just knock your socks off. Cantini, a native of Tuscany, believes that a restaurant is a sanctuary where people should surrender themselves to the finest cuisine. He correctly stands by his words. For the main course it is highly recommended to order the Papillote a le couteau fettuccine’s nest with a dash of white truffle flavour that is surrounded generously with a brilliant salmon roll. The whole sculpture is garnished beautifully with a display of king prawns & lobster filling. If fish tickles your fancy than this is the kind of dish where you’ll just lick the whole plate clean (I nearly did that). If you love art, like I do, than you’ll love the parsley and garlic coated black cod fish presented with a lovely fennel salad that has a irresistible sun dried tomato lime custard. To be exact if you believe in love at first sight when it comes to food, then this dish will just make you eat your heart out. I suppose the touching part of it all is that the plate on which you are served is also shaped like a fish, complete with a hole that represents the wide eye. Harmoniously set with its towering features among the newly built residential enclave in the Nanshan district of Shenzhen is the fabulous Kempinski hotel with 390-guestrooms and suites. All the rooms and suites are generously proportioned with an average size of around 40 sq m. In fact, it would be suitable to mention that the property is even more over the top ‘bohemian counterculture’ design that runs heavy on red, orange, gold, and bold patterns. OK, so it may not be everyone’s cup of tea but at least it creates a sense of nirvana for those that are looking for something special and want to be in the crème de la crème of Shenzhen’s booming economic market. Kempinski fans would love it, naturally.
Location is perfect because this area is going to grow in the near future especially with the Shenzhen Universaide in August 2011. There could be no better location and this is perhaps one of the best locations in the whole of the city. Only around 30 minutes away from the main Shenzhen airport, and a comfortable 45 minutes drive to the Hong Kong international airport as well. The mega Coastal City shopping complex is situated right in the doorstep of the hotel. Here you are bound to find every type of foreign and local store of fame under the sun. All the rooms come standard with state-of-the-art facilities including: Satellite TV, wireless internet facilities, and the luxury of making complimentary calls throughout mainland China from your room are provided as part of the package. Those who may be wondering if the customer service is up to scratch with the global Kempinski brand for which they are famous for would be pleased to know that the staff converse in excellent levels of English, and that there are no misunderstandings. The local health, hospitality, and leisure industry has grown tremendously in recent years. There is a separate floor allocated only for the women, where all the rooms are catered just for women. This is to provide the women with more privacy and somewhat is of a similar feature to that found in hotels across the Middle East including at the Kempinski Mall-of–the-Emirates in Dubai. The specially designed ‘lady room’ is generously furnished with an all-female settings including plush light colours and bedding. One of the most beautiful parts of the hotel is the swimming pool- and even more so in the evening. You gotta love the ambiance that portrays a night sky with stars. Just imagine doing a backstroke and looking up towards the roof in the evening. The views are priceless. Because there is no open-air swimming pool, so this is one reason why the indoor swimming pool has this excellent night time touch added to it. The lobby lounge bar is a remarkable piece of architectural genius where fresh cocktails are available till the wee hours of the morning. The lobby bar also hosts many live bands to whose tunes you can bop it away as well. It’s so grand that you end up feeling grandular yourself. Huge chandeliers hanging from the ceilings along with a massive lampshade in the shape of a signature symbol of the Kempinski. Lovely detail to attention that goes down to the micro-scale. The hotel’s two main restaurants provide many opportunities for satisfaction. To treat your culinary taste buds it would be worthwhile to try and savour the tongue for either the Chinese restaurant, Hai Tao, or the Western buffet eatery, Seasons. The former has seven private dining suites that will make you feel as you are an emperor in Shenzhen. It is the place to go for a quality, good-value Cantonese food. Those residing at the executive guestrooms and suites can enjoy the club lounge as they wish. From here stunning views right across the whole of the Shenzhen metropolis as well the northern territories of Hong Kong are visible on a clear day. Lovely comfortable sofas and pleasant pictures on the walls provide an array of luxury that is difficult to find elsewhere in this young city. Occupying a key spot right in the heart of Shenzhen’s most happening place, Luohu, the 491-room Grand Hyatt, Shenzhen is also at the centre of the city’s modernist landscape that is changing at an ever-dizzying pace. The beauty of the Grand Hyatt Shenzhen is that you can easily get to downtown Hong Kong within 40 minutes either by driving or by taking the highly convenient metro. A vast majority of people from Hong Kong prefer to live and work in Shenzhen. This is especially true for those who are increasingly looking at Shenzhen as a destination for M.I.C.E. activities, and the Grand Hyatt Shenzhen would be a preferred choice any time of the year for that.
Like the majority of the newest Grand Hyatt properties in China, the first thing that strikes the visitors is the spacious and rather futuristic lobby on the 33rd floor. This is where your Grand Hyatt Shenzhen experience starts because guests check-in and then are ushered to their respective rooms in style. There are breath-taking views of Shenzhen on both sides of the lobby. On one side, you can see the lavish MixC, the city’s largest shopping mall, which houses the largest number of international luxury brand retailers in China, an Olympic-sized skating rink, and Park Lane Manor, the most exclusive residential property in Shenzhen. Further onwards is the current tallest building in Shenzhen, the Diwang that is soon to be overtaken by the Kingkey 100 finance centre, as it will be the tallest building in Shenzhen as well as one of the tallest buildings in southern China. While on the other side one can view the vast lands that go across into Hong Kong across the border. The eight venues for dining are the true jewels of the Grand Hyatt Shenzhen. They really do bring a feeling of true paradise to this restaurant and it is in these eateries that you can truly spoil yourself. Each one caters for different tastes and there is plenty of variety in terms of the ambiance, the feel, the look and most importantly, the taste and style of the food. For those who really pamper themselves with ridiculously good food and to enjoy the surroundings it will take at least a week I should say to absorb the true atmosphere of all the eight exciting and innovative dining venues. For those who have time as their enemy, it would be good idea to start at The Lounge located on the 33rd floor, adjacent to the Sky Lobby. This is the Grand Hyatt Shenzhen’s focal space where you can indulge yourself with various refreshments, light snacks, and evening cocktails throughout the day. It is also perhaps the best place to do people watching, if that is what you like doing while having a signature coffee. For the next culinary showcase, it would have to be the 226-seat (including a 10-seat private room), Show Kitchen, located on the 25th floor below. Here you can drown yourself in the thought of tucking into any of the delights on offer at four distinctive open kitchens: Asian, Japanese, Western, and Seafood. The beauty of it all is that this allows the guests to dine among the live culinary action creating an interactive restaurant experience. Three places that would be notable interest for luxury foodies are Belle-Vue, China Lodge and 1881. Belle-Vue is a European restaurant where classic western cuisine is prepared à la minute on 10 tableside cooking stations; while China Lodge is situated on floors 35 and 36 and comprises of 14 premium private dining suites, which cater to parties between eight and 22 guests. 1881 offers an authentic Sichuan cuisine set on the ground floor of the hotel. The fun part starts in the evening when most diners head off to the 109-seat Penthouse located on the 38th floor. An amazing fusion of Eastern and Western music tastes that blend in perfectly with some unique fashionable and innovative experiences. These experience-focused areas include a Living area with a resident DJ on most nights, a kitchen featuring a teppan hot plate; a balcony, a terrace, and an illuminated bar serving premium spirits, wines, champagne and cocktails as well as imported premier cheese and charcuterie. One of the biggest things that may surprise you is that the vast majority of the classy and super-rich crowd are local mainland Chinese people who know how to enjoy a good wine and company in true style. This is where the future of China, and indeed Shenzhen, is and this is just the beginning. Would you believe it, wine tasting in China and especially in Shenzhen? It was almost unheard of just a few years ago. It just demonstrates the face pace at which this city (and country) is growing, and how rapidly the demographics of modern Chinese cities are changing. A final big atttraction for the Grand Hyatt Shenzhen is the spectacular terrace-bar, which has become one of the hottest bars in town for an evening drink or informal dining after a good meal. Usually people first have a meal in one of the hotel’s other seven restaurants’ before making their way to the top to while away their evening. It is here that you will bump into perhaps the who’s who of Shenzhen (or Hong Kong). Each of the 491 contemporary guestrooms (including 53 suites and 48 long-stay serviced apartments) provide panoramic views across this booming metropolis. What impressed me most was the remarkable way in which all the Canadian marble floor tiles lined up neatly next to each other. It really is amazing the way the construction and architecture have blended in perfectly to make sure that the pattern on any one-tile matches exactly in terms of micro-scale detail to the tile placed next to it (or the tiles that surround a tile). This also goes true for the imported mahogany that is used to construct the furniture and the doors of the rooms. How it all perfectly matches together is perhaps a secret that only the architects and interior designers would know. The best part of the guestroom is the airy, spa-style marble bathroom, housing an over-sized rain-shower and separate bathtub. Equally hi-tech is the main room, which is equipped with automatic time-controlled curtains, a self-contained workstation with wireless, high-speed Internet access, a multi-channel 40-inch LED television and DVD player, an iPod® docking station, and dual phone-lines with voicemail. Another interesting aspect is the ‘magic sliding door’ that separates the bedroom with the bathroom. When the bath is not in use, the door acts like a see-through glass, however when someone takes a shower or bath then all they need to do get privacy is to close the sliding door, and instantly the doors frost over to block the view both ways. If you are residing in any one of the Grand Club rooms from the 22nd to the 31st floor, then you have complimentary access to the massive Grand Club Lounge on the 25th floor. Not only does the Grand Club Lounge provide stunning panoramic views across the metropolis, but also it can be used to just relax with a lovely wine, or to catch up on any work in tranquil and private surroundings. There is ample Space for holding short corporate meetings as well, with a meeting room fully equipped with interactive technological facilities. You cannot come all the way to the Grand Hyatt Shenzhen and not try one of the signature treatments at the Shui Xiang Spa (translates as “water village”). Highly recommended is the signature Shui Xiang 90-minute massage that will not only cleanse your body from the inside but also open up your five senses and will refresh the most important parts of your body including the brain, the kidneys, and your skin. The Shui Xiang therapists’ are well trained to not only give you the best relaxing experience ever but also vastly improve your blood circulation. The expansive 3,132 square meter Spa has been created in the style of a traditional open-air Beijing hutong (Chinese courtyard residences), with 13 individual Spa ‘houses’ circling a central water feature which is a very much important part of Chinese Feng Shui as it brings prosperity and fortune. The majority of the houses feature private outdoor terraces that offer somewhat eye-widening views of the Diwang building in the background. Each Spa suite contains a private lounge area, bathroom, shower room, and therapist’s pantry. Nine of the suites feature private steam rooms with a heated treatment bed and four have outdoor bathtubs. A visit to the Shui Xiang Spa will round off a perfect stay at the Grand Hyatt Shenzhen. Everything that you’ve heard about Shenzhen’s manic energy and moneyed pace is mirrored in the city’s dining landscape. Venues open and shut in rapid succession, especially in the Lowu area, and towering hotels, malls, and developments provide yet more sleek dining options. Classical European restaurants may be a dime a dozen but the truly authentic are few and far between, especially those serving top notch Western classics that are prepared at your table. Opened in February 2010, Belle-Vue has been known as the top European restaurant within PRD region with his consistent efforts, and has been ranked as “The Best Business Restaurant 2010” by HOTELS China Magazine. Lavish settings bring along an equally extravagant set of menus. Forget your one day trips across to Hong Kong and Macau, because now real classical western cuisine can be found on mainland China, right here at the Belle-Vue in Shenzhen. Belle-Vue brings together both good tastes and legitimacy to the table, with the Austrian-born chef-de-cuisine Christoph Trocker in charge of the kitchen, having a myriad of international experience, most recently with the Jumeirah Group of hotels.
Apart from being able to provide impressive city views of Shenzhen while you indulge into your meal, the key to the success of Belle-Vue is the ability to present a truly five-star quality food during live cooking in front of the dinars- which indeed is a huge challenge for any chef and one that is accomplished well by chef Trocker and his team of experts. The menu is decidingley modest, filled with comfort foods that are touched with haute finishings, including French foie gras, pan-fried, rhubarb compote; the Boston lobster bisque, or the Sea bass, pan-fried, fava bean, truffle mash with demi-glace. Save plenty of room for dessert, whether it’s the Bombe Alaska (With raspberry, rose & lychee) or the grand marnier soufflé glace (The orange is so good that you could effectively drown yourself in the dish!). Set Menu starts at: 480 RMB for a 3-course meal*, 550-RMB for a 4 course meal* Dress code applies, shorts are not permitted. * All prices are subject to 15% service charge Two weeks ago, by chance I came across an incident in the southern Chinese city of Shenzhen where a Chinese man was arrested for protesting against Deng Xiao Ping, in front of the famous poster of Deng Xiao Ping in the city centre. I quickly managed to take a photo- (shown below) which clearly shows the protestor, who seemed to be around his mid-30s, being led into the Police car. The policeman sitting in the front seat is reading the poster which has just been confiscated from the protestor. The Chinese man defiantly stood in front of the Deng Xiao Ping portrait and shouted loud slogans against Deng, and his reasons of why Deng was a bad man. After repeated calls by the Police for the protestor to stop and give up, he was finally arrested after an hour’s standoff and taken to the Shenzhen Detention centre in the Meilin district of the city. Another Policeman, who initially took the call from a member of the public, told me that he will get anything between 2 and 4 years- and most likely with no need for any trial, because the Police already have all the evidence and there is no need for defense. I have never at first hand seen or heard about a local Chinese man protesting like this. Chinese people rarely openly protest against their government leaders (dead or alive). It is indeed rare, and so this has led me to believe that either this man is 1. In serious determination to make his strong viewpoint against Deng Xiao Ping; OR, 2. (I hate to say this), but he could have some mental illness. I am speculating this second point because of his refusal to stop protesting and the "childish" way in which he was stubborn to continue protesting. If one saw his behavior, it would actually have been comparable to a young sulking child. Something did not seem right. Also, I am wondering why is he protesting now (in 2009 I mean), and why not in the early 1980s when the great Deng Xiao Ping declared Shenzhen a great city for free trade zone.
I never got to know the man's name. In actual fact that same morning, before I came across this incident, I happened to witness 3 other arrests- all of which were acts of thefts/pick-pocketing by petty criminals on the K204 bus during the morning rush hour. I got onto the rather empty K204 in Nanshan (Shekou Walmart), but around 10 stops down the route, the bus will fully packed with passengers having to push each other to "squeeze" into the bus (it is normal in big cities to witness this). Everything seemed normal, and then suddenly all I heard was two plain clothed young men shouting and holding down the culprit, handcuffed him and led him off the bus at the next stop. To my surprise all the other passengers seemed to be calm, and not in any panic. Taking into account that only a few weeks ago I had lost my Digital Camera in Kunming (at the CITM in November), I was not taking any risks at all. It prompted me to keep a close watch on my pockets and Camera. It all sounds some movie, but in reality these thieves do work in teams of 2 or 3. This is so that when the bus stops, they all run in different directions, hence neatly avoiding being caught easily. To see one arrest on a fully packed bus is shocking enough, but to see 3 on the same bus route is something new. I never came across this before, even in my previous 5 years I have lived in China. On the whole China is a much safer country to live in than the UK (this is true and from my own personal experience). Its just that because of the New Year holiday so some people from the rural areas come to big cities and will take anything they lay eyes on (it happens everywhere around the world- read my November blog article about London!). During the time that I was working in China (for a Chinese company), more often than not I used to have my breakfast, lunch and dinner at one of the company’s fifteen massive cafeterias’ (each cafeteria can accommodate around 1500 people!). It goes without saying that I used to love the company’s Chinese food, especially the breakfast and dinner, however, sometimes in the evenings after work on my way back to my apartment I used to wander into the local Walmart or KFC to retain my western gastronomical interests- not that I was homesick or anything, but just wanted to remind myself of what western food is like! So on one particular hot and humid evening in August 2005, I happened to set foot into the KFC in Shenzhen (near the Shenzhen Skekou Walmart). While I was waiting for my Chinese style “Chicken Tortilla Wrap”, an African gentleman, perhaps around 50 years old and of a stocky build, was standing in the queue and greeted me. As it goes that in an environment such as China, where all foreigners have something in common (in that we are not Chinese!), so when a foreigner meets a foreigner, you usually start chatting away to each other. I suppose the same analogy goes if two people from the same race or culture meet in any environment that is alien to their own. So, during our initial conversation over a KFC meal, this gentleman told me that his name was “Jeesan” and that he was a retired South African politician who had come to Shenzhen after failing to contest Thabo Mbeki in the elections. I asked him for his full name, and his response was a bit vague. “I’ll tell you later, don’t worry about that”, he told me while munching away on his KFC Chicken popcorn. That initial meeting did not last long as I had to dash back home; it was already past 10pm (I worked late hours, and used to wake up early to go to work!). We exchanged our mobile phone numbers and parted our ways for the evening. This was probably the turning point of the whole story because later on I was to realize that I wish I had not exchanged mobile numbers with him! The next day I got a call from Jeesan at around 9pm just as I was about to leave my office. There was nothing strange or wrong with the conversation, just a normal casual friendly chat about life as a foreigner in China. He told me that he was practicing astrology and that he is living with his Chinese girlfriend in Shenzhen. I did not make a big deal of all these things, even of the “practicing astrology” part. We concluded the conversation by agreeing to meet for a drink near the Shekou Walmart in a week’s time. Sometime during that week I decided to check on the internet if there was anyone by the name Jeesan who had resigned from the South African government- has it happened, there wasn’t anyone named Jeesan who had matched the description of what he told me. I even asked a South African friend of mine and he told me he had never heard of anyone in the South African government of that name. Quite rightly my friend just advised me to be careful in case this “Jeesan” was some scammer or even a fugitive. I brushed such suggestions aside as the guy seemed to pose no direct threat in any verbal or physical way. For that one week I received no phone call or message from Jeesan, and so I again I was under no impression that this could be something out of the ordinary or weird. Indeed, I had no reason to believe or think in such a way (except that I could not find his name anywhere on the internet!). The following week, I arrived at KFC near Shekou Walmart at around 8.30pm as agreed with Jeesan. At that time KFC was the only real western restaurant which also doubled as a coffee shop, so therefore we ordered some brewed coffee (KFC Style). I suppose I was taking a gamble when I politely asked him for his real name again, also mentioning that I could not find his name anywhere on the internet. He did not seem to get angry or defensive; instead he coolly and calmly told me that he was protecting himself by using an alterative name. I am not sure what he meant by that. Anyways, then he told me that the reason he wanted to see me was because he has a financial problem, and that when he practices astrology in his apartment, god told him to come and speak to me (Navjot). Now at this point I really wanted to just get up and leave because I just found it hard to swallow in everything he was telling me. Nevertheless, I was just curious, and thought maybe I could dig something up from his words…what was he after? I thought. “Go on, what is it?” I asked him. At this point he said “Look, let me show you something”; he then took out a black colored rectangular piece of paper, about the size of a US $100 note. Looking at the paper, I could have easily thrown it in the bin if I had not known what it was. In actual fact he told me that it was a genuine US$100 note, but it was black on both sides because it was defaced for security reasons. I still was not sure what he was up to, and just kept observing and listening with curiosity.
Jeesan told me that when International governments transport large amounts of hard currency across the world, they deliberately deface the hard currency with a black colored paint so that if, say for example, the plane gets hijacked than no one can make use of the real money. “So how do you make it normal/usable again?” I asked Jeesan. He allowed me to hold the paper, and asked me to see if I could rub off the paint, and I couldn’t. In my mind I kept thinking if this guy is some kind of magician or something because why is he showing me all this? I don’t have time for this rubbish, I thought to myself. Of course, I did not tell him this upfront. Anyways, at this point he took out a small bottle, perhaps around 20ml in size, containing a colorless liquid that looked just like tap water. He gently poured some of this liquid on the black note, and within seconds the black color faded away on both sides to reveal a perfectly normal (and genuine) US$100 note. He (Jeesan) even took out a fake note detector (small UV Torch) to show me the genuine watermark, and to my shock it was a real note. The most interesting bit of the conversation came when he told me that he has over US$5 million of defaced hard currency in Beijing (which is a three hour flight north from Shenzhen), and that in order to “clean” this currency he needs to purchase at least ten bottles of 5 liters each of this liquid, which he just used to clean the US$100 note, from the American Embassy in Beijing. I think like any other sane person, I immediately knew where this was leading to, and quite rightly as I had then predicted, he wanted me to pay at least 50,000RMB (About £4,500 or $5,600) so that he could purchase this liquid and then he will give me a share of the US$5 million. I wish I had a Dictaphone or a secret camera with me so I could record the whole demonstration that he was carrying out. Of course, if only I knew that this was the real reason why he called me over for a drink in the first place. I told him I would consider this offer of his and will get back to him in due course. The following morning I contacted both the American and British Embassies to tell them the story, and neither of the consulates (as I had predicted) had any such information or ever heard of this person called Jeesan- it was confirmed that I had stumbled across a scam. I have heard of scamming e-mails or telephone calls from African countries, but never encountered a real scammer in person (until this moment!). This was so surreal and unexpected. After our second meeting, I received a couple of calls from Jeesan, asking me to come to Beijing and assist with this "Money cleaning" task. I recorded both of those calls and gladly handed over to the authorities; changed my number and prayed I never meet such a person again. I was shocked, and somewhat scared I suppose, because I have never come across this kind of situation before, and did not expect it in China. However, later I found out that there are a lot of fraud cases of a similar description in China, and almost all of them are originated from African countries. It’s a worrying situation for the Chinese authorities, and by all means, of course, not all African people (or other Foreigners) are like this; but I just wondered why me? Was I an easy target? It’s a mystery to me… On the afternoon of Friday the 23rd of February 2002 (it was also my sisters birthday), I left Loughborough for Heathrow giving myself of what I thought would be ample time, in the hope that I would be able to join my parents and sister for a short dinner at the airport terminal before leaving on the 13 hour evening flight with British Airways to Hong Kong. It just so happened that I arrived late (as always I do for my flights!), had no time to think about any long good-byes let alone a dinner; and ended up running for the departure gate (as always). Its a bad habit of mine, running at airports to catch my flight at the last minute, irrespective if I am on a business or pleasure trip...however, remarkably I have never missed a flight (YET). Perhaps the greatest trip of my life so far because I had done so much preparation to understand the culture, the language (although I could not even say "Hello" in Chinese) and the food...but I am not exaggerating. In actual fact the whole week seemed like a long dream because everything happened so quickly. I completed my final exam in the morning in the (annoyingly) wet and windy Loughborough; and 24 hours later I was on a night cruise on the Pearl River in the middle of Guangzhou, and it was like, I have to make the most of this trip because I am only here for seven days. When you are so far away for such a short time, not knowing if you will ever go back to the place again in the future, then there should be a second wasted. So effectively everyday seemed like a great dream because I saw so many things in such a small amount of time. It was amazing. First impressions of China? China is a very beautiful country, one which has so much to offer but does not normally get the chance to show off its true inner self to the outside world- what do I mean by this? Well, there are those who question if it is still a friend or foe, there are also lots of biased points against (and some, of course, for) China’s policies. Media can be a wrong source for digesting a destination’s good and bad points because not all media is full of positive points. For example, the coverage of the Beijing Olympics (as an example), I believe was not covered in a well balanced way. I use factual data to take wherever I go (like for example from the UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office Website). Of course, one does not expect a simple and smooth approach to life from a country which is still considered by some hard-line economists as a sleeping dragon that is too ambitious...the obvious answer to this statement would be that even Rome was not built in one day. It goes without saying that the cultural differences do not hit you when you land in Hong Kong (as most of its’ colonial British feel is somewhat fading away at a slow pace- for many it’s still a home away from home). There used to be a saying among the English, “If you cannot make it in London, then go to Hong Kong”, however, even though Hong Kong has a “International” feel to it, that statement would no longer stand as the former colony is now, of course, part of China. Nevertheless, the real culture shock would hit anyone once they cross the border into the mainland. Shenzhen is the city that borders Hong Kong and at that time had only 2 border crossing, one at Huanggang and the other at LoWu. From Hong Kong, once I crossed the border I took the Guang-Shen train straight to the capital of Guangdong Province, Guangzhou. If I just say that “China is amazing and full of so many surprises that one cannot just sum up the whole picture in one go”, that would be a common statement these days because so many people have experienced the country, but then in 2002, for me, those were the first words that came out of my mouth. China has of course a lot of similarities with its neighbours (namely Vietnam, Singapore, Thailand, India etc), and like any Asian country which is moving from the developing stage into a newly industrialised stage, it has the good points, the bad points and the unmentionable ones- and that’s not too difficult to observe. A short ride on one of the many local buses will open your eyes immediately; you may be travelling in a very affluent area at one point, and then suddenly you may come across a highly deprived neighbourhood. An extreme example as it may seem, but just imagine you are driving through the suburbs of a busy western city like London one minute and then suddenly you are travelling through the shanty towns of, say an economically deprived rural village, and a minute later you are suddenly back into the affluent area (vice-versa). There may be many places in the world where such contrasts exist, but to see it in the flash and blood is a unique experience. Watching something on the television or reading about it on the internet is not quite the same as experiencing it in real life. Then there are also the minor but important downsides from living in the world’s fastest growing economy: China is also a VERY noisy country, especially in the big cities (Beijing, Guangzhou and Shanghai), for example it is considered normal to use the drill or do heavy construction at 2am in the morning or even all night! If you are in London and you have noisy neighbours, I bet nothing is more annoying than having a drill go off almost all night long. China is also the world's largest consumer of alcohol so it is no surprise that if your neighbours (irrespective if it is a hotel or home) are heavy drinkers, then they will sure keep you awake all night with loud shouting and arguing over Mah-jong or any card games which they be playing. It may be quite and then suddenly you hear a loud “Arrrgggg” (of course, indicating that someone has won the Mah-Jong equivalent of the national lottery!). China is also the worlds largest market for tobacco, therefore it is no surprise that you will be exposed to smoke everywhere because people smoke in Internet cafes, restaurants, cafes, buses...and if you don't smoke (like myself) then you are going to find it just that little bit challenging! If you are in the workplace (corporate culture defines a very different meaning in China as compared to say a more "International" environment such as London, Hong Kong), then you will be exposed to things such as the "normality" of answering you mobile phone in the middle of a corporate meeting/presentation and even a formal Interview! What about the culture, the people and those Famous Chinese Restaurants? While it is quite difficult for a lone western tourist to get around and speak English with the locals, the people are very friendly and assisting. Over in the border in Hong Kong it is more of a relaxed approach towards foreigners because of the reason that Hong Kong is multicultural (and maybe because there are too many people), however that is not the case in the mainland. You do get a lot of respect and VIP treatment as a foreigner in China. To some extent it's an advantage to be a foreigner in the mainland because you get treated in a much better way. I mean as an example I remember popping into a local sweet shop (nothing more different then a newsagent in the UK), and as soon as they saw me entering the shop, they were so eager (not pushy or anything) to lend a hand or get me to buy anything. Now I can imagine that kind of hospitality would seldom be seen towards a tourist in the UK- of course there are good places and bad places everywhere. That’s just one simple example, and also another one is that people are most willing to learn English. The Chinese food you get in your local takeaways’ in the UK is nothing compared to what you get over there in China, of course that’s the same with all other foreign foods I hear you say, but the experience is totally different. You simply have to taste it to believe it. The most wonderful thing about seafood in Chinese restaurants is that it’s FRESH and you can choose what to eat straight from the fish tanks! Food, especially when it comes to eating out at Dinner time, is a very important part of the Chinese lifestyle- and even more "fashionable" in Guangzhou because of the variety of seafood available here. Restaurants in general within the UK are nothing compared to what you will see in Guangzhou or for that matter the whole of China, it brings out a whole new meaning to eating out. The competition can be so fierce in some cases that some of the best seafood restaurants in Guangzhou are similar in size to four story buildings, which usually tend to have their own Karaoke Bars (a must to try even if you do not speak the language and a popular pastime of the locals). Chinese tea...and did I hear someone say night zoo? One of the highlights of my trip was going to see a zoo at night (yes.. a night zoo). A unique experience which is seldom seen in the west..with all sorts of weird and wonderful creatures. Not only a zoo but mix that with a night circus, a laser disco show, and a whole load of water acrobats show which consisted of the Chinese water sports Olympic team...so it was more like a huge funfair but at nighttime..quite impressive actually. Sounds too good to believe. Moving on from night zoos...lets talk about something which is a bit more of a common thing in China...Tea! Apart from India and Sri Lanka, China is the world largest exporter of the stuff...and its pretty much quite hard to avoid...leaving China without trying at least 4 or 5 different types of tea would be a comparable to leaving Scotland without trying whiskey. If its your first time drinking Chinese tea, you would be immensely surprised to know that it has no taste just sweet smell, nevertheless after a week of trying the stuff- day in day out, it felt soo good that I got put off drinking English tea altogether! This one week’s trip was my first trip to China and just about when I thought that maybe this would be also my last time to go there, I was fortunate enough to have been offered a contract position as a Graduate Sales Engineer with Philips Semiconductors in Shenzhen, China. This was indeed an exciting opportunity, so much for my fate that I have been in China ever since and never looked back. Shenzhen book city is normally not an interesting attraction to be at. However one particular morning in 2005 I happened to wander into the large white marbled dome building because I was looking an English map of the city, and was met by a large crowd. A young, ordinary looking Chinese lady was signing books at the side table. It came to my attention that this was not an ordinary Chinese lady after all, but happened to be Kong Dongmei (孔东梅), the granddaughter of Mao Tse-Tung (sometimes written as 'Mao Zedong', and 毛泽东 in Chinese), the founder of modern China. During our brief conversation in English, she spoke fondly of her holidays to London, and also her time at the University of Pennsylvania, where she studied for a Masters degree. It was interesting to know that she had opened up her own bookstore in Beijing, which I shall visit sometime. The picture of me and Ms. Dongmei is blurry because the 'photographer' just snapped it quickly (my pictures always come out blurry when someone else takes them...sadly). |
Get in Touch:LIFE MATTERSHere I share my thoughts
and experiences during my travels, and how some things have affected my life as an expat and world traveller. Travelling is about capturing that moment in life. Every word, view and opinion on this page is that of Navjot Singh - except where indicated. The most recent is at the top. Scroll down to read the archive. Or search using CTRL+F (COMMAND + F) and enter a keyword to search the page. Just some of the stories you never heard before. The NAVJOT-SINGH.COM web blog is separate to this web site....Click blog, which may not be visible in some countries due to local firewall restrictions, so in those cases this weblog may be read. The weblog also includes some of my press trip reports- most of which are not published on the official blog because of copyright issues. The weblog also contains articles that may be associated directly with a PR trip for a country, airline or a hotel. These are PR reviews done in relations with various companies. If you are an investor or a trend watcher then you may find this website useful as investing has a lot to do with personal observations and finding the ideal trend or next big thing. The average human on the street frequently knows far more about the state of the economy than politicians, university professors, subject matter experts, and financial analysts who seldom travel, or if they do so, only from one hotel to another hotel! The pulse and vibrancy of an economy is nowhere more visible than on a country's streets. All photos and words are © Navjot Singh unless stated. Photos taken by others or by agencies are appropriately copyrighted under the respective name. No photo or word/s may be taken without the prior written permission by the author (i.e. Navjot Singh). All Rights Reserved. Archives
February 2024
Categories
All
|